viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z

In my case, I am cutting every wire. I have to do this because I am using heat shrink tubing and not tape but I get what your saying... Is there a way for a DVOM to read/see mA so I can be sure the pink wire at BCM pin 30 doesn't exceed 200mA. The drivers and passengers wires are at the BCM, they are resting on ground? How should I test those to be sure I have the correct ones? The 5901 has a 2nd starter wire relay built in, I just wasn't sure if I needed to wire it. I will do that next. I decided that since I have to drill a firewall hole for the hood pin and alarm horn, I may as well grab the tach from a coil pack like you suggested. I isolated the wire I need from the 3 that are there. EDIT --------------------------------------------------------------------- Where the heck is the hood pin switch!?! I don't see anything that looks like the traditional hood pin switch.

I got two silicone diodes, here are the specs: Peak Inverse Voltage (PIV) 200V Forward voltage drop at (if) 1.6V Forward current (if) 1A Max surge current (16ms) 30A Reverse current at (PIV)10µA Is this a suitable diode? EDIT ------------------------------------------------------------- Found the hood pin switch...

My hood pin switch has 2 wires, one white(ish) and one orange(ish). Nothing is lt green like people say it should be...how should i test for the one I need, either the white or orange... EDIT --------------------------------------------------------------------- Which of these is the hood pin switch? Neither one seems like a hood switch to me since neither one seems to make any contact with anything let alone the ---uhm...hood. or

T&T, Thanks...I had thought to try your suggestion about the hood pin switch but the issue is this, there is nothing for me to depress or move or act upon in any way. Both of those ---what ever you want to call them--- that are in the pictures are static as far as I can see or feel. I have no idea how either one can be a hood switch since neither one comes in contact with the hood. Only one is even close enough to the hood latch to suggest it might be the hood switch but again, it makes no contact with anything that I can see or feel. The hood isn't even metal so it can't get grounded by the presence of the hood in the latch...so I am lost. This is taken directly from the installation manual regarding the 2nd starter wire: ________________________________________________________________ H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter. ________________________________________________________________ H3/8 PINK/BLACK 87a OF IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary This is common on Toyota and Nissan's which require the use of Tech Tip document #1077. (See Menu #3, Feature #8, for programming options) ________________________________________________________________

The brain has that relay internal. I should have elaborated or given more of what the installation manual has...here is the entire section for the Heavy Gauge 10 pin 9 wire connector that deals with the ignition wires. I am curious, for the 30A fused "polarity feed" wires listed below (there are 3 of them) can they all be joined into the 12v constant wire at the ignition harness? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote from install manual begins: Heavy Gauge, 10-pin connector There are 9 heavy gauge wires coming from the large 10-pin connector. They are used to energize the ignition circuits in the vehicle. It is crucial to ensure that these connections are capable of handling the current demands. For this reason, Scotch-Locks, T-taps and other such connectors are strongly discouraged. H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle. This wire not only supplies voltage for the ignition line in the vehicle, it is also the ignition feed for the security system. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Connect this wire to the accessory wire that powers the climate control system. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT This wire hooks up to the starter side of the starter wire in the car. This wire is also pin 30 of the onboard starter kill relay. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/5 GREEN STARTER INPUT After cutting the starter wire connect the GREEN wire to the end going to the ignition switch. This wire is pin 87a of the onboard starter kill relay. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/6 RED (+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 1 RELAY INPUT This wire is the polarity feed for the Ignition1 relay. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter. ____________________________________________________________________ H3/8 PINK/BLACK 87a OF IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary This is common on Toyota and Nissan's which require the use of Tech Tip document #1077. (See Menu #3, Feature #8, for programming options) ____________________________________________________________________ H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) (30A) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY INPUT This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays. ____________________________________________________________________

If I'm not mistaken, just as you said, the 5901 already has a built in "flex relay" that you can use for the second starter wire. Use the purple and green wires, as instructed, cutting the car's larger starter wire in half and connecting the two halves. Use the instructions for the 5901 to configure the flex relay as a second starter, and connect that to the car's smaller starter wire. ---------------- Infinitis always have hood pin switches, but only the older Nissans do. The tech sheets continue to lie and pretend that some Nissans have them even when they don't. Take a look at the pinswitch that gets pushed in when you close the door. If you don't see something similar (but a little bit more weatherproof) under the hood, then you have no factory hoodpin. If desired, install aftermarket. ----------------------------- Trunk release: While I would generally agree that it's always a good idea to test and confirm everything you can........if the wire you find is very thin, you can bet it's a low-current wire, and you can use the output from the Viper with no relay. --------------------------- Diodes: I wish I knew how to understand all those diode specs, but I'll be honest and admit I don't. However, all the alarm really needs is to "see" some sort of a ground on the green door trigger wire to make the alarm sound off. The alarm's not going to draw any (significant) current from the car, it's just going to "watch" the status of the wire. So, pretty much any kind of diode should work. If you do like to test and verify, connect the "band" side of the diode temporarily to a bolt in the car, then test the other side for ground.......if you see a ground there, you'll be fine. -------------------------- Door trigger wires: The rest state could be a very low positive voltage, or nothing at all, depending on the car. But what's important is that the wire shows a ground when the door is open, and that the ground goes away when the door is closed.