viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z

Also, to answer your question about measuring current - it will all depend on what kind of meter you have and its features.

"Most" meters will have two current ranges - a "high" range and a "low" range.  The high range will be measured in A, and is typically around 10 - 20A.  The low range will be in mA and will be anwhere from 100-500mA. 

The first test should be done at the A setting.  Connect the black lead to ground, set the meter to the A setting (you may need to adjust where the test lead(s) plug in to the meter) and then touch the red probe to the suspect wire.  Montor the current and if no measurement above your "low" range is observed it is safe to switch to the low current range and test again.

Because you are only feeding a digital input the current should be around 10-20mA max. 

Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote: According to the service manual there is an OEM hood pin on the car.  It's wired to the IPDM, not the BCM.  In recent years Nissan has switched to putting the pin in the hood latch, but the manual shows the switch being mounted on the front end of the passenger side strut tower.  This is on page 135 of bl.pdf.

I did as Chris suggested. Opened the window, armed the alarm, poped the hood...no klaxon went off. I tend to think there is no hood switch.

I am getting ready to do the door triggers... Are the doors in the Z - or + triggered?

Chris Luongo wrote: Block 1 will have your CAN High, CAN Low, trunk release, and Security LED wires. Block 2 (If memory serves) should have your individual left/right door trigger wires, the trunk trigger, and a domelight wire that'll catch both doors. Block 3 should have the wires going to the doorlock motors inside the doors......nothing you need over there.

Can I use the domelight (to catch L+R doors) and the trunk trigger from here using the diodes?

the domelight will most likely have only both door triggers not trunk, only if the domelight shuts off within about three to four seconds of locking the doors should it be used, if it stays on longer than this it will give you the second door ajar chirp, also if using the domelight the diodes won't be neccesary as both doors are already connected through this, the trunk trigger won't need to be dioded either since the unit should have a seperate input for this, mot likely the trigger type would be negative, never done a nissan that was different,commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

T&T, Thanks...I timed the delay, it is 30 seconds so I wired in using the diodes to the L+R individual wires. You are correct, the 5901 had a wire for the trunk so I wired that in as well. Trying to find the parking lights but the only references I can find say vague things like "Parking Lights RED / blue driver kick panel" but so far I haven't found it...any ideas where to look for it?

RED / blue immediately i would say yes, since every nissan from b13,b14,b15, almeras, bluebirds, ad wagons,wingroads and others i haven't named have had this same colour wire for parking lights since i've been doing them, they've ony recently been changed on the new gen nissans and on some new gens thay are the same, so it's very possible that could be the colour, i find it normally in the driver floor loom, you can check with your meter to verify, if you have an electric mirror control on the dash that illuminates with the parking lights you can use this too, there will be a parking light wire behind there in the electric mirror control harness. on a car like the 350z  zenica i think the hazards would look slicker though, just a thought.commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

T&T, I agree. Hazards do look nicer. BCM pin 29 (GREEN/ red)is resting on 12v and when I turn the hazards on, pin 29 becomes ground. Can I still use this and connect it to the alarm?

ground the pin, if both hazards come on there you go, remember to change the polarity on the alarm to negative though, if only one comes on chances are the other will be right there somewhere, you'll need diodes in this case though, band facing toward the alarm on the parking light wire.commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

t&t tech wrote: ground the pin, if both hazards come on there you go, remember to change the polarity on the alarm to negative though, if only one comes on chances are the other will be right there somewhere, you'll need diodes in this case though, band facing toward the alarm on the parking light wire.

I stand corrected. Pin 29 (hazards) rests on .29 volt and jumps to 12.75 when the hazards are activated. Can I still use this and how?