what are the top 3 speaker brands?

I think ima go with JL. Price and quality. I took out the rear deck speakers leaving 2 nice holes for my bass to come through. I'm putting a 2-way set in the doors, that's a definite. I want something for the kicks and rear panels. 6x9's or a component set in the rear panels. Maybe a tweeter-in-speaker 2-way for the kicks. And a JL G6600 to power them. So are you guys recommending a set of components in the doors and that's it? No other speakers? By the way, what does everyone think of IDMax's?".....um, is that wire hot?"

if you want SQ only use ONE set of front speakers. i dont recommend you put any speakers in the back at all.

It's all about the audio path lengths. At the frequencies that components (as well as coaxials) produce, a difference in path length of even an inch and a haf to two inches can cause SIGNIFICANT smearing of the acoustic image. Put a point in space where your ear is. Let's use the right ear. This is our reference. Now, measure the acoustic path to the mid. Let's just say it is 40 inches - fairly common and reasonable length for a mid-size sedan like your 3 Series. Now measure the length to where you want to install your tweeter - if you are installing high on the door, possibly 34 inches. Let's just say your crossover point is 3500Hz - again, typical. The wavelength of 3500Hz is .31 feet, about 3.8 inches. for every 4 inches the tweeter moves closer to or further from your ear, (referenced to the 40 inches of the mid-range driver) you need to reverse the input leads on the tweeter to keep the wavefronts at the crossover point in phase. This is a relatively easy fix for components. Adding a full-range driver, an additional component set, or a coaxial speaker, you still have to do the polarity reversing thing for every 4 inches closer to or further from your ear, but because every frequency has a different wavelength, you might be constructive AT 3500Hz, but what about all the other frequencies the speakers are producing...? Now you get "suck-outs" where the frequencies are 180 degrees out of phase, and peaks where they are in phase... And I mean "in-phase" by the time they reach your ear. Moving your head will exacerbate the problem. Too many drivers will cause odd timing issues, ruin your front-stage, and generally sound like arse. A true SQ system will ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use as few drivers as possible. As few drivers as can be used to accurately produce the entire audio spectrum. Have you ever heard a really good set of horn speakers? (I'm not talking about the POS IDHorns under people's dashes - I'm asking about TRUE high-end home gear.) They are ONE driver - reproducing the ENTIRE bandwidth. All path lengths for all frequencies are PRECISELY the same length. One driver MOST accurately reproduces real life. Does your dog bark from three points in space? No, he barks from ONE point in space. This is the very reason you use one set of speakers in your car.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Plus... it's cheaper!It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Sweet. I just got edumacated. If i'm putting in only one component set my budget changes. All I need now is a 2ch amp, so i'm looking to spend about $600 on a set of components. I want SQ and I also want volume. I have CRAAAAAAZY bass and I want my interiors to match it.".....um, is that wire hot?"

JL VR series with an Alpine PDX4.100. Bi-wire, and bi-amp... The JLs have the capabilities of being bi-wired... Four channels... Dude. SQ out the @$$. Individual gain controls for individual drivers to make it sound JUST like you want, you'll be in love with it! Take it from me, I'm using the 4.150 on my mid/tweets, and it's nothing short of AWESOME! I might mention that I am using the VR tweeters in my system. I love them.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Just to be sure: 4ch amp. Ch1 tweeter, Ch2 tweeter, Ch3 mid, Ch4 mid. But the crossover only has one input. Explain.".....um, is that wire hot?"

AHA!!! The VR series isn't bi-wire. The ZR series is. I understand now.".....um, is that wire hot?"

I'm going with the JL Audio ZR650-CSi components. Now, Alpine 4ch or JL Audio 4ch? Also, how loud will it be with one component set?".....um, is that wire hot?"

OK... I stand corrected. The VR used to be bi-wirable, IIRC. If you are going with the ZR's I REALLY recommend a bi-wire -amp setup, as the tweeters WILL want some taming. Both amps are very nice, I'm partial to the Alpine. The ICEPower amps are reaaaalllly nice sounding. :) ...yes, you are correct - mid1 to channel 1, mid2 to channel 2, tweeter1 to channel 3, and tweeter2 to channel 4. Run all four channels full range (the mid-bass you can run hi-pass), and use the passive crossovers for all of the crossover functions. How loud will it be? Well, it's PLENTY loud in my car for my tastes, and my drivers are PAINFULLY inefficient.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."