redid my plan, opinions?

if your going to get a HO alternator PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go with DC Power engineering, these guys are amazing, the alts are rock solid beasts and I don't think you will ever find anyone willing to go to the extent that Rob at DC power does. if you talk to Rob at DC please also mention that BigJohnny referred you. I assure you I get absolutely nothing from it, however Rob did me a HUGE HUGE HUGE favor and has been such an awesome guy to deal with that I feel I owe it to him to send some business his way. If you go with these guys for an alt, I promise you, you will NOT regret it.

soundnsecurity wrote: jdalphin wrote: I'm gonna have to go against what you recommended. I'm on a REALLY tight budget at the moment. What I have settled on is the: 1 x Power Acoustik BAMF-2000/1D amp (1200 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, 2000 Max) 2 x SPL SP2-12 12" 4 Ohm DVC (600 watt RMS, 1400 watt MAX) 1 x Install Bay AK4 (4 Gauge) 1 x Pioneer DEH-4000UB head unit w/ GEX-P10HD HD tuner One guy said to go with a 600 watt amp for those subs, which in my mind was completely way to low. I then contacted Crutchfield, and they said to get the RF T1500-1bd amp (which is way the hell out of my price range). 1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm confirmed my thought. So, I dug up the PA BAMF-2000/1D amp which you can see it's specs above. My final questions are: 1) Will that amp be perfectly fine for the subs I want? RMS is covered. 300 watts per voice coil (600 per sub), and if it was hitting its peak power, it'd only be 1000 watts per sub. So it looks safe to me. What do you guys think? 2) Will that install kit work with that amp? At Sonic Electronix, under the Accessories tab, it shows two different 4 gauge kits. 3) The box I have described below, will that be good? Tuning gonna give me what I want? And enough air for the subs? Oh, and which way should I have the subs in it? Towards the roof, or towards the back? Box Type: Ported Port Diam: 3" Port Length: 4" approx (tuning = 34hz) Volume: 2.6 ft^3 (31" x 14" x 14") Material: 3/4" MDF make sure you set your gains the right way and dont abuse your subs too much and you should be fine. i understand not everybody is looking for top of the line equipment but in my opinion you CAN do better. everything that's shiny isn't gold.

Well yes, but if I had a tad bit more cash on hand, I'd be running a RF T4000, 2 BTL 12"s (or 18"s if I felt like ripping out my back seat and making an überbox!), a 220 amp iraggi alternator, and probably a crap load more. I've also changed the build plan for my box. Here it is: Type: Ported Volume: 3 ft^3 Port: 32hz @ 3" in diameter x 4" long Material: 3/4" MDF

if a "tad bit more cash" is worth saving up to you then i would wait until you had a tad bit more cash

BUILD PLAN!! Buy each component and its entirety, progressively. Dont come home with 2 subs, a amp and deck, broke! Install all wire and sound proof BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Brands mean nothing without certified install. I guarantee your install integrity will increase if you break it down to sequence. Too many people go buy a nice shiny amp and throw in some cable and expect wonders. Lets see what you can run after we know you can run it. Foundation!This is what I do for FUN!

ianarian wrote: BUILD PLAN!! Buy each component and its entirety, progressively. Dont come home with 2 subs, a amp and deck, broke! Install all wire and sound proof BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Brands mean nothing without certified install. I guarantee your install integrity will increase if you break it down to sequence. Too many people go buy a nice shiny amp and throw in some cable and expect wonders. Lets see what you can run after we know you can run it. Foundation!

i would have to disagree with the progressive install theory. installs come out a lot better if the whole thing gets done at the same time. that way you have all the equipment on hand so you can test fit the amps in the spots where you want them before you run wire just to realize the amp wont fit where you want it. you can also run the wires at the same time which ends up being less work in the long run and you dont have to take the car apart more than once.

What's your opinions on the Alpine Type R's and Type X's?

I hear ya on the test fit theory. The way I see it, once you know the level your taking it too..   cable pathways through vehicle typically are standard. Necessary changes that are required and wire type/sizes are mathematically decided for you.. You can draw your amp on a piece of cardboard if it helps you determine how to get the wire there. Downside- is 1 solid piece door panels(i left a coil of cable to reach the speaker later) Or your choice requires a special cable(LPL, Volt-Monitor). Chances are what ever additions installed will be on top of what you need to remove to do wire and sound proofing.This is what I do for FUN!

Well at least the last 3 installs I did in this fashion. With a little waiting period between stages. Its been a cool feeling to be able to throw in brand new stuff without the hardest part(preparations) being added to it. The turn out is what I guess was the best. The applications allowed for the process to work too. We were able to access the mounting locations via grill covers and such. 1 required just the cutouts to the amp cover left to do.This is what I do for FUN!

Depends on who is doing the install. A young buck doing it themselves will generally rush through it making mistakes and giving up quality just to hear it bang. I have done my own and was very thorough and patient. (this time anyway), My first time was a disaster though.

jdalphin wrote: What's your opinions on the Alpine Type R's and Type X's?

decent all around subs. not awesome at anything, but i cant really say anything bad about them either.