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2005 superduty viper 5701


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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 8:30 AM / IP Logged  
since they are accessory wires you might not NEED to connect them for remote start. but depending on what they power in the truck you might want to hook them up anyway. you can do this by using a relay activated by the small orange wire on a short 4-pin harness that also has a pink, a purple, and a blue wire on it. that wire gives you a negative accessory output that is used to activate a relay.
or, you can go the cheap way and just split your accessory wire from the remote start. the problem with this is that it might blow the fuse on one of your red wires if the extra accessories draw too much power for the 30A fuses to handle.
its up to you.
and about the tach wire, i personally would program the alarm to do voltage sensing and be done with it. i cant remember the last time i actually used the tach wire. some people say that tach is more reliable but i rarely have any real problems using voltage sensing.
KarTuneMan 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  

DON'T "go the cheap way" and split t your accs. output from the R/S. Use the negative outs to trigger a relay and do it the "right way"

The cheap way is also unsafe!

bondsman 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 10:49 AM / IP Logged  
Alright.  I got the idea.  I was wondering what that short 5-pin harness was for.  The orange is a neg trigger for accessory output.  Now, guess I need to do some reading on how to wire this up to run the last two accessory wires.  What do I have to do exactly to get that part wired in?  I talked to an installer here who said to not worry about them, but I want this to be as functional as possible.
bondsman 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 1:10 PM / IP Logged  

I know this is probably going to be overkill, but let me run it by you.

What if I run a heavy gauge fused wire from the positive of the drivers side battery to inside the truck and connect that end to a small distribution panel, use two of the slots on the distribution panel and connect to two relays at pins 30 and 86, then the (-)trigger (orange wire on small 5-pin harness) to the 85 of both relays, then each accessory wire to their own relay at pin 87 with 30a fuses inbetween the truck acc wires and pin 87?

one more question (for now), does the remote start that activates the accessory wires disable when the key is turned on or is power constantly fed to the acc wires all the time while the engine is running from both the remote start and factory wiring?

Ya'll have been so much help.  I am truly getting a grasp on this thing. I still don't know how you can do this day in and day out.  My hat's off to you. 

soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 5:41 PM / IP Logged  

well, at the ignition harness there should be more than one constant 12v wire. you can use those to run the accessories because that is what is running them now, thats what they are there for. there is nothing wrong with running the wire from the battery but i just think it is more trouble than it is worth. everything else that you described is perfect.

the remote starter does not power the accessories all of the time, only when you remote start the truck. and even then it is only until you turn the key and hit the brake.  not sure if you realized that there is a wire called the "brake shutdown" it is a small brown wire that needs to be hooked up to the wire at the brake switch above the brake pedal. this wire will read 12v when you press the brake and nothing when you release the brake (foot brake not E-brake).

soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 11, 2009 at 5:46 PM / IP Logged  
KarTuneMan wrote:

DON'T "go the cheap way" and split t your accs. output from the R/S. Use the negative outs to trigger a relay and do it the "right way"

The cheap way is also unsafe!

unsafe? i feel you when you say that it isn't right but if you take into consideration how much current the accessories draw and as long as it isnt more than the remotestart can handle on a single accessory wire then i see no problem with doing that in general. yes, some cars need to be isolated but most dont.

but dont listen to me, do it the right way 2005 superduty viper 5701 - Page 2 -- posted image.

bondsman 
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Posted: August 17, 2009 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  
Got it all installed.  Soldered everything.  Ran two relays for the other two accessory wires so everything works.  It works great.  The only issue is that on first attemp to start after it has sat for awhile, it will go through the 15sec wait to start, then it will turn over for for a brief moment (way less than a second), then cycle again and start the next time.  I have the tach connected to the GREEN / WHITE and the start time is at max.  virtual tach is being used too.  do I need to change something to eliminate this?  Oh yeah, I installed a relay for the GEM wake up as well.
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 18, 2009 at 10:37 AM / IP Logged  

what do you mean by the start time is set to max? are you talking about the run time or the crank time.   do you have the alarm programmed for tachometer checking or voltage checking?

i would lose the tach wire and set the engine checking option to voltage checking and maybe increase the cranking time maybe 1 step up and see if that helps.

bondsman 
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Posted: August 18, 2009 at 4:25 PM / IP Logged  
Crank time is set to max.  i will change the settings to voltage and see if that works.  Thanks for all your help.   I will never install another one..  You installers will get my money from now on.
t&t tech 
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Posted: August 18, 2009 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  
If you have connected a wire to the tach signal, you should have the unit programmed to tachometer and not virtual tach, after doing this relearn the tach signal to the unit. Virtual tach is more of a smart voltage it monitors actual crank time and sets the unit to act accordingly, so you alrady have the tach connected, why not use it, it always works.Voltage is great to but tach works alot better in my opinion. But hey that's just my opinion!
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