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2005 superduty viper 5701


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KarTuneMan 
Platinum - Posts: 7,056
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: August 18, 2009 at 10:55 PM / IP Logged  
soundnsecurity wrote:
KarTuneMan wrote:

DON'T "go the cheap way" and split t your accs. output from the R/S. Use the negative outs to trigger a relay and do it the "right way"

The cheap way is also unsafe!

unsafe? i feel you when you say that it isn't right but if you take into consideration how much current the accessories draw and as long as it isnt more than the remotestart can handle on a single accessory wire then i see no problem with doing that in general. yes, some cars need to be isolated but most dont.

but dont listen to me, do it the right way 2005 superduty viper 5701 - Page 3 -- posted image.

Understand that the outputs on the R/S cannot exceed the input. Most R/S have 2 inputs each protected by (normally) a 30 amp fuse. @ inputs for ALL of the potential/properly connected, output needs. Start adding (demanding more) to/of these, and fuses blow.

jetblue 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 10, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 27, 2010 at 1:28 AM / IP Logged  

Reading this post has been OUTSTANDING and provided clarity for my impending install of a very similar Viper 7901.  I have been dumfounded by these Flex Relay Inputs and Polarity Feed wires that are mentioned in the installation manual, but your post has clarified that they are not used for my install (a 06 F250 diesel).  After reading all of this, though, I need some clarification.  In reading all the threads, it sounds like hooking up the Accessory Output (Orange H3/3 wire) seems to be necessary to ensure that the heater or A/C starts warming or cooling the interior immediately following remote engine start (depending on how I left the heater & A/C when I last shut down the vehicle).  This doesn't make sense to me.  Once the vehicle is up and running, aren't all the accessories (radio, heater/AC) functioning as they were last left when shutting down the car?  If I did not hook up the Accessory Output wire, are you saying that the vehicle would start and run, but all the other items that normally are powered when the key is turned to the ACCY position would NOT function?  Simply need to understand.

Change of subject...

On the primary harness (H1), there are two wires that confuse me: H1/4 (WHITE/ brown) which is the Light Flash Isolation Wire - Pin 87a.  How is this wire used and where would I attach it on my 06 F250?  The other wire is the H1/11 (White) which is a Parking Light Output wire.  Don't understand which of the two would be hooked to the parking lights.  Will a relay be required, or will the system allow the vehicle's onboard relay to be used?

Great post gents.  Thanks for helping me clear the cobwebs on this stuff.  This will be my second install of an alarm system (first one went very well on a 95 F150) and my first install of a remote start system.

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jetblue 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: January 10, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: February 01, 2010 at 12:23 AM / IP Logged  

Oh, and a few more questions if I may:

After reading the install manual, I am a bit fuzzy on how to hook up the Remote Start/Turbo Timer (H1/H10) wire.  The manual states that a negative pulse will be necessary on this wire for the remote start to activate and deactivate.  Well, the Factory Alarm Disarm Output (H2/1) sends a negative pulse anytime the remote start is activated or doors are unlocked with the remote.  Since I do not have a factory alarm on this truck, should I simply connect the H2/1 wire to the H1/H10 wire which needs that negative pulse to have the remote start activate and deactivate?

And finally, how does this 2nd Unlock Output (H2/6) wire do its thing and what should I hook it up to.  Presently the vehicle has an aftermarket alarm  installed which does unlock the drivers door on first unlock command and then the remaining doors when "unlock" is pressed the second time.  Is it the alarm or vehicle onboard systems that enable this to work?  If I do nothing with this wire, but hook up my door lock and unlock wires on the 3-pin harness.  How will my door locks function?

Many thanks for your help

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bondsman 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 07, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: February 25, 2011 at 8:52 AM / IP Logged  

Final result on the tach, voltage sense, virtual tach, etc....

I had mine up and running great but I didn't have the fuse in for the parking lights to come on.  Mine was set up on voltage sense and worked great.  Put the fuse in, parking lights worked when remote started, but it only ran for a few seconds.  The tach wire is hooked up.  I changed the setting to tachometer and tried the tach learn and it wouldnt give me the blue light.  Changed the jumper on the box and did the tach learn. BAM!  It works like a champ again.

Make sure you hook up the tach wire, change the jumper, do the tach learn.  It will work like a charm.

jetblue, IIRC the remote start/turbo timer...  I put that wire to a momentary switch on the dash, the other wire off of the switch goes to ground.  Before I get out of the truck, I push that button, the remote start takes over and keeps it running, remove the key and go into the store and the truck stays running.  Also, you can just push the button and it will start the remote start sequence...

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