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2007 subaru outback sport remote start


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instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 05, 2009 at 8:30 PM / IP Logged  

I still have the panel out- i went to alldata and on the schematic, the yellow wire is supposed to go to ground when the door opens (all 3 doors and hatch have ground at one side of their switch, and the yellow at the other side.) The driver door has ground at one side , and LOr (which i think they mean lavender/orange?)- either way, its right next to the yellow.

but are you saying the car has (+) door trigger?

JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: October 07, 2009 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  
You have to PLUG BACK IN the instrument cluster before testing the yellow wire. It reads ground when a door is open, and +12v when all doors are closed.
instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 07, 2009 at 8:04 PM / IP Logged  

got it- thanks- alldatadiy was really helpful-it was easy to see on the schematic that the yellow HAS to be a ground when a door switch is tripped.

I finished identifying all my connections today- now i begin to hook things up and find the best place to run my wires.

jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: October 09, 2009 at 1:48 AM / IP Logged  
The glass sensor sends a .08 sec neg signal to brain for instant trigger.  Is your shock impact sensor on board brain or separate unit?  How many aux plugs does module have?  I have my shock sensors front and back connected to the blue wire of my 508d harness that plugs into the brain, and I jumped the blue wire of of the sensor side of 508d to green wire. That freed up my blue wire on the brain side so that I may connect my shock sensors to the same port/zone. That way they both go to zone 2.... blue wire will read as sensor one (shock) , and blue/grn from 508d will read sensor two.  Not sure if this helps. But honestly if you have a dual zone sensor.. you don't need a glass sensor. They tend to false alarm at certain noises anyway.
instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 10, 2009 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged  

In the manual, for programming, its say at the end of programming there will be a "horn honk , if it is hooked up."

There IS no wire labelled "horn..." in the manual.  There is no 2-wire plug that some posts mention.

So what on this system honks/chirps or whatever when finished programming, and IS there an output that pulses or latches a few seconds at the end of programming?

instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 11, 2009 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged  
anyone? Im trying to finish today and close it all up if all runs well.
JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: October 11, 2009 at 12:05 PM / IP Logged  
I believe older versions of the 3.5 did not have a horn honk output. On the back of the alarm brain there are some icons with different years imprinted. I believe there will be an arrow pointing to the year it was made. Same for the month. When was your unit made?
instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2009 at 6:42 PM / IP Logged  

thye manual states that the blue H1/6 multi input is zone 4 in the connector diagram, and the description of those wires.

However, the table in the back lists these zones:

< size=2 face=OfficinaSans-Bold>< size=2 face=OfficinaSans-Bold>

ZONE NO. TRIGGER TYPE INPUT DESCRIPTION

1 Multiplexed Input BLUE (H1/6)

2 Multiplexed Shock Sensor Input Mux BLUE wire.

3 Door Trigger GREEN (H1/5) and VIOLET (H1/7).

4 Multiplexed Shock Sensor Mux GREEN wire

5 Ignition Yellow ribbon harness wire

6 Hood Brake Trigger GRAY on the 6-pin shutdown harness.

So, I put my dualzone motion sensor's 2 wires to the blue wire (red to power, black to orange at brain.)

When I walk up to the car, it goes off and it is flashing the hood is going off (i set the remote to hood being I have a htachgback that the hatch triigers as a door).

Why the discrepancy?  The manual early on shows the hood pin as zone 1.  In the list later, it says hood is zone 6?  and what is a "brake trigger"?  its not the brake input for shutting down the remote starter.

So does someone know what excatly each wire goes to what zone and how it will show on the remote?

I wired what I THOUGHT was correct according to the connector diagrams and the wire descriptions.

ZONE:

1: hood pin, tilt, and backup battery diode'd into gray wire

2: using the Y connector that came with my glassbreak sensor, I have the dualzone shock sensor and the glassbreak sensor.  The dualzone's 2 output wires are together on the blue, and the glassbreak's single output is on the green. Both sensors share the red and black. This plugs into the zone 2 port.

3: doors & hatch

4: dualstage motion sensor- both its output wires to the blue wire. red to power, black to orange (ground when armed.)

I did the arming sequence to bypass zone 4- and the motion sensor still picke me up.  so, the blue wire must really be on zone 1.

Thst just really nice- that the table in the back of the manual does not agree with the wiring instructions

(well, the wiring instructions say you can use the orange wire for the starter kill relay (that IS enclosed in the box.) So I was wondering why the remote start wouldnt work- i read in another post that it grounds the orange wire during remote start to turn on bypass module and it just uses the relay in the relay pack as a starter interrupt.   thats sweet.

does anyone have a correct manual?  I want to close up my dash already

instuller 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2009 at 9:38 PM / IP Logged  

otherwise, everything works well- the starter is great (once I removed the orange wire from the starter kill relay that the manual said was ok to hook up.)

i just need the correct wire for the correct zone being the discepancy in the manual.

t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: October 13, 2009 at 10:22 PM / IP Logged  
That blue wire will always report as the trunk trigger, there are supposed to be seperate ports on the unit itself for the respective zones, these will be plug n play!
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