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2005 silveraldo and rs


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beakerss 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 03, 2009 at 2:04 PM / IP Logged  
Okay. I do thank you for the help. I have everything installed and cant get the darn thing to even act like it is going to crank. It clicks 7 times and the parking lights flash 7 times. Any assistance is appreciated. thank you.
moonliter 
Copper - Posts: 322
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: October 03, 2009 at 2:43 PM / IP Logged  
I have a hunch that your rs is NOT set in automatic transmission mode. Change to automatic mode & try again.
beakerss 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 03, 2009 at 5:15 PM / IP Logged  
okay no luck. i am going to hope this helps
I have the wires hooked up in this order per wiring instructions
h1/1 RED / white aux trunk release (not used)
h1/2 red constant input   Hooked up constant power
h1/3 brown horn (-) input (not used)
h1/4 WHITE/ brown flex park parking light relay 87a (used for multiplex circuit which truck does not have so not used)
h1/5 black chassis ground (grounded at frame)
h1/6 violet door (+) input (hooked up at door wire)
h1/7 blue (-) factory horn input (not used)
h1/8 green door (-) input (hooked up at door)
h1/9 BLACK/ white domelight 200 amp (-) input (not using)
h1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start activation (-) input (not used)
h1/11 whtie parking light output 30   (hooked up at switch (-) power)
h1/12 orange ground-when-armed    (not used)
neutral safety safety switch plugged in and turned on
BLACK/ white neutral safety (-) input   (have grounded)
violet/white tach input (system has virtual tach so not using)
brown brake shutdown (+) input   Hooked up to (+) wire@brake switch
gray hood pin switch no/nc (-) input (have hooked up to switch in engine compartment that came with system)
antenna hooked up
valet program in antenna
status led in antenna
H3/1 pink    Ignition 1 input/output   Ignition wire@ignition harness
H3/2 RED / white (+) fused (30A) fused ignition 2/flex relay input 87 power wire Power wire@ignigion wire
H3/3 Orange Accessory output    accessory wire@ignition harness
H3/4 Violet     Starter output    starter wire@ignition wire
H3/5 Red       (+) fused (30A) Ignition 1 input power wire@ignition harness
H3/5 Pink/white   Ignition 2/flex relay output 30 Ignition 2@ignition harness
H3/7 Pink/black   Flex relay input 87A keyside (if required) of flex relay (not used)
H3/8 RED / black (+) fused (30A) accessory/starter input Power wire@ignition harness
what is happening.... I have the heavy gauge wires hooked press the button. I do not receive any power going to the ignition wire at all. takes 5 seconds and receive 7 flashes of the light.
This is confusing and am worried i have received a bum unit. any help is appreciated.
jim hunter 
Silver - Posts: 351
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 03, 2009 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged  
on the heavy gauge wires, what color wires do you have what colr wires from remote start hooked to? (i.e. red wire from remote start to red wire at ign etc.)
ive not used dei since the virtual tach has been added but i thought 7 flashes on dei was no tach signal? is it maybe like audiovox/code alarms where the vehicle has to be started so many times for the remote start to learn a crank time?these trucks the tach wire is very easy to hook to and is so much more dependable i would hook up and program tach( it is the only white wire at the back of the instrument(gauge)cluster)shoudl even be able to grab the harness without removing the gauges but if unsure the gauges remove very easily with (4)7mm screws. also while not related to the no start issue how/why do you have both positive and negative door trigger hooked to door?, either you have the negative hooked to the latch wires(diode isolated naturally) or you have the positive( i believe) door trigger hooked up but no need to have both
beakerss 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 03, 2009 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  
i will have to try that in the morning. I do thank you for the help.
suzuki7 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: October 04, 2009 at 12:03 AM / IP Logged  

Seven flashes is almost definitely manual mode..Your attempt in menu three to select automatic was not saved, so try that again, it is probably not tach, as factory default is virtual tach, which always has worked for us in tons of vehicles.  And yes the Pink/Black is nothing in this vehicle, and Pink/White can be called Ign2 if that is more clear...Hope It works out..

The best way to predict the future is to create it!
beakerss 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 06, 2009 at 5:57 PM / IP Logged  
Okay i got it installed. This has been a headache install. I have it set to tach, crank time enough to crank, automatic setting. My problem is it cranks up, starts the engine and the engine runs then cuts off; almost like it does not crank long enough. When the engine is warm it starts and runs. When the engine is cold this is when it happens. it does not have passive security or RFID chip in the key. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
bizill 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: September 04, 2009
Posted: October 06, 2009 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged  
just gonna try to toss this out... you never mentioned what passlock interface you're using.  if you are indeed using one, try to re-teach the tach signal.  just trying to help out...
beakerss 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 06, 2009 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged  
I am not using a passlock interface, I was going to try to run it without it. it did start without a problem when the engine was warmed up. I did try to relearn the tach signal and it did relearn it with no problem, but no dice.
jim hunter 
Silver - Posts: 351
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 06, 2009 at 7:55 PM / IP Logged  
that vehicle has passlock, and if it doesnt see the proper resistance after a couple attempts its gonna lock your truck up in theft mode(which is very time consuming to remove) you need to wire in a 556L(d.e.i.) or similar product in order for it to work , theres no logical reason why it worked when warm, unless it had maintained the resistance code long enough for your attempt(which it shouldnt have)
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