05 saturn ion redline, alarm/remote start

You can control the lock and unlock without a module need you need the module for the control of the oem alarm functions.there's no way around it because it's data controlled.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: You can control the lock and unlock without a module need you need the module for the control of the oem alarm functions.there's no way around it because it's data controlled.

Ok well before i buy a couple more questions. if the only wires that get hooked into it for remote start is ground output when running, ground and 12V. what do the other wires on the remote start get hooked to such as the starter output, ignition1, and accessory wires. dont these need to be connected to something. and witch 12V and Ground from the remote start do they want connected to the idatalink because there is 3 12v power inputs and only one chassis ground that says to connect to a solid chassis ground. please be specific. Here fill in the blanks if you dont mind

I have a 2005 saturn ion I am connecting a scytek 8000 remote start.My question is concerning which bypass module to get. The idataLink (ADS-AL CA) module says it will control the OEM Alarm Arm/Disarm, door locks, trunk, etc. and is over $100.+ module flashing cable. but i can get just a bypass module for remote starting for $22 from Omega. So is Arming/Disarming the factory Alarm really worth the extra money? I can connect the door locks,dome light, trunk and everything from Scytek 8000. so what is the benefit? Why Arm/Disarm the factory alarm at all?

You still need to connect the ACC and the IGN from the remote starter to the vehicle. You will need to connect the starter wire to the clutch bypass wire. The bypass module bypasses the Passlock system and the vehicle starts when the ACC drops out. The option for the control of the OEM alarm arm and disarm is totally up to the customer. If you want control over it or not will be up to you. I only suggested the ADS-DL because this is the module that I used without problems. Integration with the iDatalink module is flawless and will replicate the OEM functions without problems. I'm not familiar with the Omega module, but if you want a module that will only take care of the Passlock system, then you can use the ADS-TBSL-PL instead.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: Go to the WHITE wire at the top driver's side of the engine

This is why were not on the same page with the tach wire location. after looking at the pictures i purchased from you the ion 1,2,3 are nothing like the Redline. the Redline is closer to the Cobalt SS. they have the same motor and the 5 pin harness your refering to is not there. I have found a Tach wire. its in the ladder Tach boost gage. Duh. I dont know why i didn't think of that before. however when i rev the motor it spikes between 3V and 10V. Is this to much for the tach wire?

If that's an AC reading it's spot on.

Thanks again Howie 11. I really need your help on this one Howie, seeing as how your the only one who gives me consistently legitimate advise I want to hook up a neutral safety without having to buy the 689m module(which my alarm doesn't have a neutral safety wire that it calls for) so i looked for some alternatives and this is what i put together. Could you also verify that the wires on the bypass and alarm are connected right wires on the car? and what does the Ignition Input get connected to? Thanks again Howie I almost have this install rapped up.

Of course you could always connect the neutral safety switch to the parking brake, I can't give you any more advice because I don't know the car.