2001 Honda Accord, Lock/Unlock Motor

Hello! I'm not new to Alarm/RS system installation but it's been a while since the last time I've installed one. I've just got a second car (2001 Honda Accord EX) and I'm planning of installing a RS w/ Keyless and as I check the wiring diagram I've noticed that there's few new things added to the list like keysense, lock motor & unlock motor. Atleast to me it's new Anyway, are those mentioned above even required to to complete the installation and what are their functions? I'll be using the following for the install; *ULTRA START U1272XR Pro *Honda-SL3 Any thoughts on my questions will be appreciated. Thanks!!! Just About Anything Sparks

Keysense isn't needed to do remote start. The wiring sheets lately have just been listing the keysense wire for pretty much every car they have, whether it needs to be connected or not. The doorlock motor wires are the wires that go from the car's body computer to the actuators inside the doors. They're used when installing a "keyless upgrade" alarm, an alarm system that would work from the existing Honda remotes. Not needed in your install. Do be sure to try the search feature and look for any Accord EX from 1998 to 2002.....you can get the doorlocks in the passenger fusebox, and if done correctly, you won't have to run into the driver's door to disarm the factory alarm.

Chris, First of all, thank you very much for the reply and the supplied information. Getting to driver's door to disarm the factory alarm is part of the plan but kinda interested to find out how to get away with it. I have probably missed that part when I did my search for this car. I've also read that I can set my system to UNLOCK(disarm)- RS - LOCK(rearm). I'm not sure if this will work all the time. If not I will have to do the last resort. Happy Thanksgiving!!!Just About Anything Sparks

I tried to use the search feature too, and I couldn't find much, not even any of my own original older posts. By the way, the Pilot is built on an Accord platform and the wiring is mostly the same, so if you find the arm/disarm trick for the Pilot, you can use it on your Accord. Anyway, let's break it down into two separate parts, an explanation of the car, and of the alarm. THE CAR: In the passenger's fuse box, the plug that's closest to the front of the car (and unfortunately the hardest to get at) contains the wires that are coming in from the passenger's door. I'm assuming you have the knowledge and necessary equipment to test the wires in the car. In that plug will be one wire that shows a ground when you turn the key in the passenger's exterior key cylinder to the unlock position. There will be another wire that will show a ground when turning the key to the lock position. You might also find another pair of wires that show a ground when operating the rocker switch on the interior passenger's door panel---ignore them and don't use them. Anyway, those first two wires you found......one will unlock (all four) the doors, disarm the factory alarm, and also turn on the domelight if it receives a ground pulse, just like when you turn the key in the passenger door to get inside the car. The other wire, when it receives a ground pulse, will lock all four doors, turn off the domelight, and arm the factory alarm....just like when you turn the key to the "lock" position from the outside. YOUR ULTRA REMOTE STARTER: Well, you're going to have your green and blue lock and unlock outputs there, of course. It's been a while since I've installed an Ultra starter, but there's also going to be an output labled "factory disarm" or similar, which will make a pulse at the beginning of the remote start sequence. There will also, hopefully, be an output labeled something like "factory rearm" or "pulse after start" or something like that. If not, hopefully you at least have a negative, low-current starter output. You need some kind of output from the Ultra that makes a pulse after the car is successfully started, or if not available, at least during start. SO, YOU DO THIS: The Ultra's unlock and disarm outputs get spliced together, and connected to the Honda's unlock/disarm wire you already found in the passenger's fuse box. The Ultra's lock and rearm outputs get spliced together, and connected to the arm/lock wire you found. HOW IT WORKS: When you activate the remote start, the disarm pulse unlocks the car, disarming the alarm, and your remote starter starts the engine. Then your rearm pulse immediately locks the doors again, preventing people from getting into the car. LINKS: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73662&KW=accord+disarm+lock+unlock Read the second post from user JWorm. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~110400~KW~honda+pilot+arm+disarm+lock+unlock~PN~0~TPN~2 On Page 2, read post from user chriswallace187

Chris, Thank you very much for bunch and detailed information. I'm still waiting for the units but will start working on it asap. I think I have enough info from you regarding to this car. Locating the plug from the passenger's fuse box shouldn't be a bug off rather than going into driver's door to access the disarm wire. I will consider your post as my 1st option. My second option will be the factory alarm bypass, it's one of the wire (yellow or orange) behind the glove box. I will need to cut this off using a relay by feeding a negative wire while running to the relay. I'm curious what will happened after RS time has elapsed assuming I just want to warm up my car. Hoping I will not get to this point, I'm just setting my options. Hey! Again, thank you very much.Just About Anything Sparks

You use the wire that reads +12v when you release the trunk with the factory remote. I believe there is also a switch on the drivers door you can test with too. Number 2 in the above post is correct. It's really reading 12v, your meter may not be fast enough to read it. Wire a relay as follows: Connect 86 and 87 to a fused +12v source. A 10 amp fused circuit will be fine. 85 - connect to (-) trunk release output of remote start 30 - connect to trunk release wire in car.

What I do at times is if there is no remote or button then get your meter and have it on one of those WHITE/ red wires and meter it while you run a fused wire from the battery to the actual wire at the motor in the trunk. Give it power and it will open. The meter will give a reading if it is the wire. As mentioned before it is a positive trigger.