viper 5301 problems

jeff foster, I have to agree with Howie, that your posts aren't making any sense. "Ground to the ignition switch"? It doesn't have one - it switches 12V positive. And I can't get the first clue from this thread as to what you're attempting to do with relays other than that you've apparently had success getting your headlights to work with one of the auxiliary channels. Which is completely irrelevant to the problem at hand. Here's some thoughts of mine on how you can possibly get this situation rectified: 1. The first thing you should realize about this, and any other car security/remote start installation (hell, pretty much any aftermarket equipment whatsoever), is that the product being installed is usually not vehicle specific, and you won't necessarily use every wire. Get that into your head, and stop thinking that you need to use every wire coming from this Viper piece. 2. For us to be any help, you need to accurately describe your wire connections. Specify when you're talking about a wire what color its insulation is, what its function is, and whether it's part of the factory wiring on the vehicle or the aftermarket alarm/remote start wiring (or whatever else you might be installing). 3. Aside from the carburetor solenoid which you'll presumably have to add later, installing this remote starter on this vehicle absolutely does not require separate relays. For remote start, you've got 4 high current outputs from the control module and there shouldn't be more than 4 switched ignition, accessory, starter wires on that car. For starter kill (which is optional, and doesn't need to be hooked up for remote start, incidentally), you've got a relay inside the control module, and it's more difficult and completely pointless to add another one like you appear to be doing. 4. I'm guessing your "car won't shut off" problem earlier was due to the remote start staying activated. It doesn't shut off automatically with the key in the ignition or turned to run - you have to either push the brake (which obviously requires the brown brake shutdown input wire from the 5301 to be PROPERLY connected to the car), or open the hood(assuming the gray hood shutdown input is connected), or shut the remote start off with the remote. 5. An older car like yours, which doesn't have any solid state control modules, will not be shut down by removing the battery terminals - it will operate under generator power alone. Also, it would be better to unplug the 12V switched supply to the ignition coil than the high voltage output, should that be possible. Additionally, it's not good practice to remove battery terminals from a running car - the battery acts to stabilize the voltage supplied by the alternator, and by disconnecting it with the engine running it's possible to cause a voltage spike that damages electronic control modules.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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What did you do to get it to work?

ok this is what i did i took my whole dash apart which somehow has a ground that goes to my ignition which is a green wire i put my ignition switch back to stock and it still did the same thing so i added a ground wire to the green wire which wasn't getting grounded i have 12 volt running to 86 starter wire starter side to 30 and ppl wire from alarm to 30 orange to 85 pink wire from alarm to pink ignition wire ppl starter wire key side to 87a you guys are saying i can't have a ground but it says grd on the back of the ignition switchjeff foster

change pin 86 from 12 volt to switched ignition. by having it on a constant +12v, the relay is being triggered the entire time the vehicle "armed" or locked with the viper remote. that can end up being a big drain on the battery

ok thank youjeff foster