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2009 toyota sienna remote start


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jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 9:39 AM / IP Logged  
Update:
Ordered the Prestige APS687A and the ADS-TBSL-KO. One more question. I was told this about the sliding doors:
To wire the sliding doors and the sunroof, a window module and a latched relay(165.00) for the 2 projects would be needed and extensive wiring surgery is required to interface after market control devices like alarms with keyless entries.
From the previous info this is not true about the doors(I don't have a sunroof). Can they just get hooked up to a negative pulse output or do I need the relay?
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 1:00 AM / IP Logged  
Just negative pulses. No relays, diodes, nothing.
You'll see that the install manual isn't very good, but after you take a look through it....
Red Audiovox lock wire: Connect to lock wire in car.
Green Audiovox unlock wire, AND RED / black second-unlock wire: Connect BOTH (yes, both, together) to the unlock wire in the car.
Go into programming menu and turn "2nd step unlock" to "on." You'll now have driver's-priority unlocking just like from the factory.
Sliding doors:
Connect Audiovox Channel 5 to left slider wire in car.
Connect Audiovox Channel 6 to right slider wire in car.
Channels 3 (trunk, on the green trunk/start button) and 4 (defrost, on the AUX1 button) are already programmed to the remotes.....but channels 5 and 6 are not.
Again, the separate "transmitter programming guide" that comes with the unit is awkward to read.........when I am more awake I'll help you to first un-program both remotes, and then re-program them so that Button 1 is Channel 5 (left slider), and Button 2 is Channel 6 (right slider).
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 1:03 AM / IP Logged  
Oh, and unless it's a CE (which it can't be, because it has power sliding doors) it should have a flashing red light on the dash that says "SECURITY," in one of those little black oval thingies to the right of the radio.
Anyway, here's how you test for a factory alarm, to see if you have one before beginning the installation:
1. Open either front window.
2. Turn car off, remove ignition key.
3. Close all doors, sliding doors, hatch, hood....everything.
4. Lock doors with factory remote.
5. Leave car untouched for more than 30 seconds. (Could leave it for a couple of minutes if you want, to be on the safe side.)
6. Pretend you just broke the door glass, but reach in through the open window and unlock and open the door by hand. You'll quickly know if you have an alarm or not.
jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 4:52 AM / IP Logged  
Great. The only other questions I have is about the parking lights. I have seen some people had some trouble with the different -/+ wires in the van. If I tap the negative at the steering column switch, do I need to do anything special with the module?
jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged  
One more question. What is the best way to activate the defrosters? I have seen a chart with the wire as YEL/GRN, but is it turned on with a neg pulse or do I need a relay?
jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 23, 2009 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  
Anyone about the defrost wire? I can access the wires at the switch easily just needing to know if I need to use a relay or just can use a negative pulse from the starter.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
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Posted: December 23, 2009 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  
Generally speaking, if it's a thick positive wire, you need a relay.
If it's a thin negative wire, you shouldn't need a relay.
For sure, if you're getting it right at the switch, it's going to be low-current with no relay required.
Does the wire just make a ground for a moment when you press the button, or does it stay a ground the whole entire time after you press the button?
Regardless, you should be able to connect the Audiovox's GREEN/ black Channel 4 output straight to the wire at the swtich. When you get to the point where you program how you want your other features, you'll see that it's default on Pulsed (one-second pulse) but you can change it to Latched if necessary, which makes it a steady ground for some number of minutes. (I want to say it's 8 or 10 minutes, but I forget.)
NOTE: default, out of the box, Channel 4 is controlled by the buttton labeled "1."
If it were my van, I'd make it like this: "1" does left slider, "2" does right slider, and 1 and 2 together do rear hatch.
You could make Lock and Unlock together do the defroster.
But the first thing you have to do is un-program both remotes, so that the 1 button isn't tied to Channel 4 anymore, and then start all over and program them the way you want.
I can explain here how to un-program and then reprogram the remotes if you want, when you're ready, or you can even call me if you want after you get the unit wired up and working and we can do it over the phone, I don't mind.
P.S. You did say you bought the 687A, right? So it has those chrome remotes with Lock, Unlock, Start/Trunk, 1, and 2, correct?
And think about how you want to set up all the buttons.
Keep in mind that to hold buttons 1 and 2 at the same time, you probably need both hands free, which is not easy if you're carrying groceries.
Another choice would be to use the remote start/trunk button to do one of the sliders, then have 1 do the other slider, and 2 do the rear hatch.
(The rear hatch, I believe, requires a slight delay---you have to push and HOLD the button on the overhead console, right? Channel 3, which is tied to the start/trunk button, only puts out a 1-second pulse, and cannot be used to control the rear hatch.)
Also, to activate Channel 3, you have to push and hold the rs/trunk button for 4 seconds before it activates, which is painfully long, so keep that in mind too.
tedmond 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 23, 2009 at 5:18 PM / IP Logged  
8 min trigger for the rear defrost
jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 23, 2009 at 6:11 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the additional info. I don't have the power rear hatch, so I was thinking button 1 for left door, 2 for right door, and the quick press of the start button for the defrost. I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow morning so I'm trying to get everything lined up tonight. I'll test the defrost button tomorrow to see if it's a latched or momentary switch. I'm pretty sure it's a momentary switch to a relay because it returns all the way out after being pressed. You were right about the manual. It's not very good. Like I said before, I know just enough to be dangerous, so I appreciate all of the help. One more question for now and I'll be good for a while. The manual states that the unit is good for 300 mA negative outputs. Will any of the negative outputs(parking lights, locks, i.e) require relays?
jerryh3 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2003
Posted: December 23, 2009 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged  
BTW. Yes, it's the 687A and a ADS-TBSL-KO flashed with the latest firmware. It came with (2) five button black remotes.
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