2009 toyota sienna remote start

You won't need relays for negative locks, negative park lights, or the sliders as they are all mA inputs. I have never done defrost in one so i just don't know...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the info. Things went a lot slower today than I thought they would. The defrost seems to be a latched switch so I'll just set that channel for the eight minute latched. I think I got everything connected except for the tach wire,hood pin, and bypass. I had to pack it up for the day but I was able to test the lock/unlock and that seems to be working. I tried to remote start it with the key in the ignition but it wouldn't. I hope it's just something with the remote programming. I saw on here the tach wire is BLACK/ orange at the ECM. I was able to find a BLACK/ orange at the module but it just tested out at 12V when the ignition was on. Is there a good way to test a tach wire?

OK I'll try to answer everything, separating the parts about the tach and the remotes: --------TACH---------- If you haven't hooked up the tach wire and programmed it to the unit, the remote start won't work. You could go into programming, change from Tach to Voltage sensing, and then after you start the car at least once by key (because it averages your recent cranking times when starting with the key), it'll then work. I do all those Siennas these days with Crank Averaging with good results, but if you prefer tach it's not a bad idea at all to hook it up. I use my Power Probe LED test light to test for tach. If you have a digital multimeter, you can set it for AC and test for tach......black meter wire to ground, red to suspected tach wire. It'll show somewhere between 1 and 6 volts AC, and usually will rise if you rev the engine. A slightly less orthdox method is to simply use the remote starter. The GREEN/ orange tach wire is only an input, not an output, and connecting it to the wrong wire won't hurt anything. Find your suspected tach wire in the car, make a quick temporary connection with the GREEN/ orange (don't even bother taping or soldering), and try programming tach......if it programs, try the remote start. If it won't program, it's the wrong wire. Very high up above the gas pedal is a thick wire harness with a whole bunch of BLACK/ orange wires, which all look the same. If you have the engery to test all of them, one of them is tach. P.S. Even if you're averse to using voltage sensing, it's a great testing/troubleshooting tool. You could use voltage mode for the time being until you get your bypass and ignition wires correct, and leave tach for last. --------REMOTES------------ OK, the first thing to keep in mind is once you un-program the remotes, you can re-program the buttons to do pretty much anything you want........there's no rule that the Lock button has to be the one to lock the doors.....if for some strange reason you wanted Unlock to be Lock.....#2 to be remote start.....#1 to be lock.........you probably wouldn't want to do that, but you could. The second part is that Remote Start, and Channel 3 (blue trunk release wire) will always be on the same button. Channel 3 is Channel 3, which is start/trunk..........you can't make one button be for start and Channel 4, not possible. When you go to program the remotes, you have the following: Channel 1: Lock Channel 2: Unlock Channel 3: Start/Trunk (blue wire) Channel 4: Defrost (GREEN/ black) Channel 5: blue/stripe Channel 5 output Channel 6: blue/stripe Channel 6 output Channel 7: blue/stripe Channel 7 output So then....two sliders, rear defrost, but no rear hatch? I would make button 1 for left slider, button 2 for right slider, and 1 and 2 together for defrost. -------UNPROGRAMMING REMOTES------ If you have the horn wire hooked up, this makes a ridiculous amount of noise, be forewarned. You have to go through the procedure twice, once with each transmitter. 1. Ignition on. 2. Press/releas valet button 3 times; you'll hear one horn honk. 3. Press and release again; you'll hear two honks. One more time, you'll hear three honks...........continue doing this until you hear FIVE horn honks. 4. Press button 1 on transmitter; you'll hear a series of honks. Press button one another time, you'll hear a LOUD honk. 5. You've now been kicked out of programming mode, and the remote that's in your hand should also no longer work at all. 6. Turn ignition off, put the second remote in your hand, and repeat steps 1-5 again. 7. You should now have two completely non-funtional remotes. Now it's time to reprogram them to work the way you want. ----------REPROGRAMMING REMOTES----------- 1. Ignition on. 2. Press/release valet 3 times; you'll hear one honk. You're about to program Channel 1, which is Lock. Press Lock button on first remote; hear one LOUD honk. Press Lock button on second remote, hear one LOUD honk. 3. Press/release valet 1 time; you'll hear two honks. You're now in programming for Channel 2, which is Unlock. As in the last step, press Unlock on first remote, then Unlock on second remote. You're probably understanding how the programming goes by now, right? Anyway.... 4. Press/release valet 1 time; hear three honks.......programming for Channel 3, Start/Trunk. Press Start/Trunk button on both remotes. 5. Press/release valet 1 time, hear 4 honks; you're now in Channel 4/Defrost programming. What do you want to use for Defrost? I'd use Buttons 1 and 2 together.....or you might prefer Lock and Unlock together. Anyway, press ANY combination of TWO buttons together; this will be how you activate defrost. 6. Press/release valet one time; hear five honks......Channel 5.........you connected the left slider to Channel 5, correct? OK then, press button number 1 on each remote so that 1 will be your left slider 7. Press/release valet 1 time...........Channel 6........passenger slider, correct? Press number 2 on each remote; this will be your passenger slider. 8 Press/release valet 1 time.........Channel 7. You have no rear hatch, so therefore nothing at all hooked up to Channel 7, correct? Well, that's OK.......just press some combination of two buttons on the remote, and program them to Channel 7 anyway. This way, if sometime in the future you want to use Channel 7 for something else, you don't have to go through all these programming steps again. 9. Ignition off, one LOUD honk, programming should be all done. 10. Test both remotes for proper functions. (Keep in mind that sliding doors won't work if the on/off control switches on the dashboard are not plugged in.)

Thanks a lot. I didn't program the tach, so I assume that's why it wouldn't remote start. I'll try it with the BLACK/ orange at the ECM and see what happens. Yes, that's how I connected the channel 4,5,6(defrost/left slider/right slider). All I need to do now is find the hood pin and connect the bypass.

Good,sounds like you're making good progress! Just so you know, only the loaded XLE, the model with the factory alarm, has a factory hood switch, which is part of the underhood latch. If your van is a CE or LE, there's no alarm and if you want a hoodpin, you'll need to install the one that comes with the kit.

Ok, thanks. I guess I would have be looking for long time. Your description for the location was very detailed, but I still couldn't find it. I guess I know why now. About the tach vs. voltage sensing. That's one of the things I was confused about. The install manual states the tach sense must be hooked up. But, now I see it has an option for voltage sensing. Do you know what feature #6 of bank 3 is? It has options of <.5V before start or >.5V before start.

That "tach must be hooked up" bit is something they probably did a cut-and-paste from one of their old manuals from years ago when they didn't have voltage sensing, I'm guessing. That "greater than .5 volts" and "less than .5 volts" goes like this. First, the unit remembers the amount of time you held the key in the Start position when you start the car manually with the key. It averages your recent starts....not sure if it's the last four or eight starts. Anyway, when you go to remote start, it turns on the ignition, then cranks the starter for the amount of time it recorded as an average, as stated above. After a few seconds, it monitor's the car's voltage. That's because when the engine's running, the alternator's on, and the voltage will be higher than when it's off. If the unit sees a voltage increase of 1/2 volt or more, it assumes the engine started successfully, turns on the parking lights, and stays engaged for whatever you set the runtime for (default 10 minutes). Sometimes, maybe with the AC compressor running, the climate control fan on high, and the rear defroster on, it won't "see" the required .5 volt increase, and will shut off and retry---whether the engine has started or not. I've almost always left Toyotas on the default "greater than .5 volt" setting. If you find that the car ends up shutting off and restarting instead of staying running, you could select the other voltage setting, but I don't think you'll need to.

I think I'm good to go. It took a little while to find the right tach wire but there was a second BLACK/ organge at the ECM. It kept starting then shutting off right away, so I "relearned" it with the other wire and it stayed running. Then it took a while to get the bypass to program because I had the wrong code wire(yellow) tapped. But, once I got the right wire, it programmed right away with no problems. That thing is a pain to program, especially without the horn output. Overall, it was a good learning experience. I'll run through all of the options tomorrow and make sure everything is good. Again, thanks for all of the help. I don't know if I could have done it without the information given here. A few things I have noticed: 1. You have to wait a few seconds after it starts before engaging channel 4/defrost or it won't stay latched. 2. If you remote start then cancel with the remote with the headlight switch "on", the automatic headlights will not shut off. I guess it figures no one has exited the vehicle and is waiting for a door to open before shutting off the lights.

The headlights will shut off after 15 minutes, but if you do a search here about Toyota auto headlights you will find info on adding a relay to bypass the auto lights while the RS is on....Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks. I'll probably just try to get the wife to turn the headlight switch off when turning off the van. Because, with the switch on "headlight on," the parking light confirmation does not work for the lock/unlock.