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clifford 50.7x wiring, 99 chevy 3500


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hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: January 10, 2010 at 3:45 PM / IP Logged  

Anyone...I know there has to be someone on here that can answer my questions.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 10, 2010 at 4:14 PM / IP Logged  
Orange Acc to your vehicle's accessory wire at the ignition, i.e. the wire that reads 12 volts+ when you turn the key to the first position, stays live when you turn the key to ign. and dumps on cranking the engine then restores 12v+ on engine run.
Pink/black, for a second starter or accessory.
Take the BLACK/ white NSS to the reversing light feed, it's then a safety feature other wise you're not using it properly.
Brown brake shut down wire goes to the side that reads 12v+ when brake pedal is depressed.
Blue/white. Turn on your engine, set the heater blower, AC and hot window controls to on, then turn off engine. If you turn on engine again and everything stays as it was, you don't need it. Otherwise, check that purple wire, see if it goes to 12v+ when you turn on the hot window, run the blue/white to a relay 85, 12v+ constant at 25amps fused, join to 86 and 87, join 30 to the purple wire. Or find the hort window factory relay or the switch output, see if it's a neg or pos on switching on and let me know.
The blue goes to your by-pass and or key sense if required, ignore the rest.
The reason know one else has answered is all of this info is in the install manual! RTFM!!
hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: January 11, 2010 at 11:49 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks Howie for the input.  I did read the manual but this is my first attempt and I want to make sure I get it right the first time with out hurting any of the gear or my truck.  The manual is pretty vague which is why I am here asking the guys who know the answers to my questions.  This is the right place to do that isn't it?

The orange wire simply says "connect to accessory wire that powers climate control".  I got the impression from the manual this wire powers automatic climate control systems.  I do not have automatic climate controls only manual heating/air conditioning.  I didn't know if I would still use this wire to power my manual heating/AC controls or simply not use it at all.  It sounds like your suggesting to hook it up to the entire vehicle accessory rather than just the heater/air conditioner controls.

Great idea for the NSS wire!!  This is why I am asking questions the manual does not suggest doing that and I would never have thought of it.

The defogger switch, the purple wire is the output wire and I believe it is a positive output.  The Input wire to the defogger switch is an orange wire that comes from a fused 30 amp 12v+ source.  They both connect to a time delay relay behind the defogger switch.  The purple wire also activates a relay for my heated mirrors.

As for the other wires I knew I didn't need them I was just curious on what they might be used for.  Like what kind of accessories could you run off them.

Thank you for your help.

hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: February 22, 2010 at 12:35 PM / IP Logged  

I am a little confused on the light flash connections for the Clifford 50.7x.  I am installing in a 1999 Chevy 3500 crew cab.  The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire light flash - isolation wire.  There is also the H1/11 white parking light output.  Are these two different ways of doing the same thing?  Which should I use for this setup?

Since I am here I actually have a couple of other questions.

1 - Bypass module - Can anyone recommend a good bypass module to use with this setup.  I have passlock 2 system with factory keyless entry.  I can't make heads or tales out of the ones I have researched.

2 - H1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start/turbo timer activation input.  Am I right that I don't need to do anything with this wire.  Am I correct that you would use this for a push button start and stop?

3 - H1/9 BLACK/ white dome light supervision - I have factory keyless entry so the dome light already comes on when the locks are remote activated so would there be any other reason to connect this wire?

4 - Hood pin switch - I don't have any good places to mount a hood pin.  Would connecting to the factory under hood light work since it turns off and on when you open the hood?

5 - H2 light blue 2nd Unlock - Since I have factory keyless entry system is there a way to tap into that and operate progressive locking rather than wiring up a chain of relays?

Rod

hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged  

I am a little confused on the light flash connections for the Cliford 50.7x.  I am installing in a 1998 Chevy 3500 crew cab.  The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire light flash - isolation wire.  There is also the H1/11 white parking light output.  Are these two different ways of doing the same thing?  Which should I use for this setup?

Since I am here I actually have a couple of other questions.

1 - Bypass module - Can anyone recommend a good bypass module to use with this setup.  I have passlock 2 system with factory keyless entry.  I can't make heads or tales out of the ones I have researched.

2 - H1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start/turbo timer activation input.  Am I right that I don't need to do anything with this wire.  Am I correct that you would use this for a push button start and stop?

3 - H1/9 BLACK/ white dome light supervision - I have factory keyless entry so the dome light already comes on when the locks are remote activated so would there be any other reason to connect this wire?

4 - Hood pin switch - I don't have any good places to mount a hood pin.  Would connecting to the factory under hood light work since it turns off and on when you open the hood?

5 - H2 light blue 2nd Unlock - Since I have factory keyless entry system is there a way to tap into that and operate progressive locking rather than wiring up a chain of relays?

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 26, 2010 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged  
1. DEI 555L or Audiovox AS-GM4 are classics that work well. Trilogix PLJX, I've used a few with good results.
You might find some more expensive modules that control doorlocks, factory alarm, and so forth...however, on a truck from your year they'll do Passlock bypass only---there would be no benefit for you to spend extra money on these modules.
2. Absolutely correct.
3. The factory keyless does turn on the domelight when unlocking, but the aftermarket system won't, because it's only going to be triggering the same wires that go to the doorlock switches on the door panel. However, I think you still have a factory domelight delay.
Try this: Sit inside truck, and if domelight is on, sit still and let it time out. Now, hit the unlock button on the door panel, open the door, then close it.....that's what you're going to end up with when you're install's done.
Using the BLACK/ white from the alarm gives you the following: 1. Turns domelight on at unlock, even when remote start is running. (Factory domelight delay generally doesn't happen with engine running.) 2. Pulses domelight on and off when alarm is triggered. 3. Turns on domelight when you park and shut the ignition off, so you can find your personal items before exiting the car. (#3 can be turned off in programming if you don't like it.)
4. I did that once in a '99-up style GM truck and it worked well, although it was a little time consuming---I think I had to open up the light and solder onto the terminal going to the bulb.
5. You could try to get a factory wiring diagram for the factory keyless entry system and see, but I'm almost sure that the driver's-priority unlocking is all solid-state inside the keyless entry unit...if you want this feature you'll need to wire in a relay as described in the install guide.
And as far as the parking lights, you don't need the WHITE/ brown "87a" wire for your application. Just connect the white positive parking light output directly to the (should be brown) parking light wire inside the truck.
hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: February 27, 2010 at 10:48 PM / IP Logged  

I am in the middle of a alarm/remote start (Clif. 50.7x)  installation on a 99 gm crew cab.  I kept getting a door open on the remote.  So I did some troubleshooting and I found that the dome override button or something in that system is not working properly.  When the button is out it is suppose to turn the dome lights on and off when you open a door.  However this one if the button is out the front dome light and courtesy lights stay on doors closed or not and the back one dose not light at all.  The back domelight also dose something weird which is if you turn on a map light it lights dimly and also dimly lights up the domelight.  (the dome light and map lights are housed in one unit)  My question to the pros on this website is...do you think the problem is the light switch, dome light unit or in the wiring possibly between the front and rear domelight unit.  I thought maybe someone may have had or heard of this problem and could help save me some time trying to track down the problem by giving me a starting point.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

sneakycyber 
Silver - Posts: 413
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 12:48 AM / IP Logged  
Was this problem present before the alarm install? Did you try getting the door trigger at the door pins?
Steven Kephart 
Platinum - Posts: 1,737
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 1:09 AM / IP Logged  
Try disconnecting the door trigger/dome light supervision wires and see if you still have the problem. It is always best to eliminate the most recent change to the circuit. If not, then you will just have to start testing till you find the problem.
hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 1:41 AM / IP Logged  

When I wasn't getting anything at the light switch I did try the door pin and same thing I got an open door signal on the remote.

The back dome light has never worked since I bought the truck but I thought it was a burnt out bulb since the front dome light worked perfectly and I just never got around to checking it.  I never noticed wether the dome light worked on opening the door because it has keyless/courtesy entry.  When you use the keyless remote it turns on the dome light until you start the vehicle.  The way the back dome light is acting makes me think there is a bad ground or short to that unit, but I don't think it would effect the door pins as well which is why I thought it might be the light switch itself.

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