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2004 titan, viper 5901, dlpk


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big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 14, 2010 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged  

Hey guys,

I'm about to install a 5901 w/DLPK in a 2004 Titan Crew Cab.  According to the DLPK manual, for a D2D 2-way install, I only hook up the can hi, can low, positive ignition input from the truck, and a negative door pin to the truck (along with the LED wire).  Also in the DLPK instructions, the alarm needs a lock and unlock signal on pins 13 and 14 from the Viper.  After connecting the wires on the DLPK, do I hook up all other necessary wires on the VIper's H1, H2, and H3 harnesses and the negative lock/unlock outputs on the Viper to pins 13, 14 on the BCM.  I was under the impression the DLPK relieved some wiring...maybe that's just the door lock wiring.  If so, should I still diode isolate the door triggers?  I've got the wiring diagrams from here and bulldog and both are the same (they say to diode isolate the door triggers...but don't know if that isn't needed with the DLPK).  Thanks for any thoughts.  I just want to get the thing installed right the first time and not have a vehicle out of commission because I didn't know where a wire should connect.

big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 16, 2010 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged  

Anyone...do I still need to diode isolate with DLPK?

mikvot 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 16, 2010 at 11:20 PM / IP Logged  
They say to diode isolate if you are hooking into the vehicles independent door triggers...which you are not.. If you look at the manual for your module, the door trigger input of the alarm is going straight to the dlpk. There would no reason to diode isolate here. You will only need wiring to the empty pins, if your truck is FACTORY ALARM equipped. If it does, this module is sort of worthless....it will do the job, but I would of spent my money on an Idatalink ads-al-ca.
big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 17, 2010 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the thoughts.  The DLPK in a D2D 2 way setup is only showing an output connection for the driver door pin.  The D2D 1 way has the door trigger as an output to the alarm.  It has the factory alarm (for whatever it's worth), what would I gain with the idatalink that I can't get with the DLPK?  Regarding the starter circuit, the Titan has the 2 starter wires, the bulldog instructions say both connect to the starter output...should I relay starter 2 or not?

mikvot 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 17, 2010 at 12:56 PM / IP Logged  
I would try it in D2D one way mode, and see what happens. It's only 3 more connections. I personally NEVER run anything in D2D mode. I do everything W2W just to avoid any complications. D2D IMO is just too unreliable. Yes, you will need a relay for the second starter.
mikvot 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 17, 2010 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged  
big_b16 wrote:

what would I gain with the idatalink that I can't get with the DLPK? 

1 You wouldn't be wondering why it wasn't working....Lol...just messing with ya.

2 Factory arm and disarm, through the module. NO inserting wires into the bcm.....not that there is anything wrong with doing this...I've done in on NIssans for years. But, it would of saved you some time.

3 Very clear install instructions, and the best tech support in the industry.

You would have to wire the Idatalink w2w, but as I already mentioned, that's how I do everything.

big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 17, 2010 at 3:19 PM / IP Logged  
Well, unfortunately Rad Shack only had SPST relays in an automotive size...which shouldn't matter since I'm only using it for the starter 2 on the truck.  Now, should I use the neg starter output logic signal (200mA) from the H2 to trigger the Starter 2 voltage to the starter and use the violet Starter Output on the H3 plug for the Starter 1 voltage? 
another-kelly 
Silver - Posts: 618
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 18, 2010 at 9:00 AM / IP Logged  
yes use the small gauge violet negative starter output to trigger the relay. personally, i just connect the +12v input for the relay to +12v constant
big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 18, 2010 at 10:34 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks, I'm guessing that pulling the +12V from the ignition coil will not have too much current for the coil of the relay.  Do you know if I'm not planning on adding anything other than a couple extra piezo sirens and a glass breakage sensor, do I need to apply power to the flex relays?  Are there ones that have to be powered for the basic functions to be usable?
big_b16 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 23, 2010 at 9:20 PM / IP Logged  
Does anyone know if the keysense wire will need to be energized to stop the OEM alarm from going off with the DLPK?  I can use the H2/10 (-) Status Output through a relay to put a +12 on the Keysense wire if needed.  Does the OEM starter 2 wire go directly to the starter and require being cut like the main starter wire?
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