2005 BMW 325i And Viper 5901

No 1N4004 is the safest, buy 5 2 for the trunk lights, 2 for the locks and one for the trunk release relay. Tedmund he isn't doing indicators, I'll email what the indicator setup looks like, 4 x 1N5404s for the front and backs and 2 x 1N4004s for the side. Since don't seem able could you post the pictures for our friend? RED / yellow feeds to trunk lights, diode inline, bands towards light, lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil.

these pictures are from Howie, he couldnt post them.

https://img685.imageshack.us/i/prepbmwtrunkreleaserela.jpg/

https://img34.imageshack.us/i/bmwindicatorlightprep.jpg/[ https://img251.imageshack.us/i/diodetorearlampfeedfeed.jpg/Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

A quick Q about one of your earlier reply's: 1) That's an immobiliser and anti-grind circuit, not necessary BUT cut the BLACK/ blue starter wire, green to key side and violet to starter side. If you don't want to cut, simply join the violet to the BLACK/ blue starter wire. What is the difference between the two ways. Cause I would rather not cut any factory wires but If it's better to then I will. And you said use a valet key. How much do they run at the dealership?

That's up to you. Initially just connect the violet to the starter wire and see how it goes. Don't loose the green in case you decide to join it up later. If used, 2 functions:- a) It acts as an extra immobiliser if the alarm is on. b) Acts as an anti-grind during remote start. The Valet key is about $30 in the UK.

At my shop we worked on a 3 Series today. Those cars are very easy. Had an issue with a 555B module that did not work for us but then used a 556u that worked with no issue. My question for Howie is why the diodes. Our diagrams dont show diodes that need to be used but would like to know your input.

Eric, the trunk courtesy lights get a spike down them when you lock the arm, lock the doors, this triggers the alarm, it happens about 10% of the time, naturally the first time I did one it happened. "Look the trunk's shut but the siren triggers off when I arm it with NO trunk ajar warning!" The answer is inline diodes (4004) with the bands towards the lights, UK Fords from 2005 suffer the same problem. Diode required on the power feed for EVERY courtesy light! I THINK the circumstances are something to do with the way the car's body control CPUs react depending on their state when you arm it. That's why I've ALWAYS dioded the lock outputs from low current flip flop alarm outputs, especially when feeding a CPU with sleeper circuits rather than simple lock relay triggers, for obvious reasons one would have noticed this earlier on Euro Cars with their gimmick laden circuitry, Japanese cars are relatively immune to this but I notice DEI now tell you to do this. Told you so about the 556U, hope you wired it without the loop and did you use the Valet key, also was I right about the trunk release, grey/light green, pos. going?

Good to know about the info...like GEM modules and certain GM vehicles and even a 2008 commander we did. To tell you the truth i did not know which wire my installer used but we got everything behind the glove box. Also the 556u method i have always used without the loop with german cars so no issue at all there and customer brought a valet key which cost about $60 US dollars. BTW did you ever use a 555B because that thing did not work for us. On a side note our compustar unit has a dedicated output that can be used for trunk release so we did not need a relay. Just changed the output setting from the compustar positive parking light to positive trunk release.

Obviously Compustar has a built in relay, I've already suggested that one to DEI, make every aux 6 wire, yeah right! Never used a 555b, have used a 555f on both Toyota and Ford, chucked it both times and went for chip removal because I was installing a UK Cat 1 with two immobiliser cuts anyway. Apparently others here have also had problems with that unit. Ref Ford GEM modules. They've changed them on recent UK Fords to include the fuse box but they still effectively work the same way. The Euro Focus diverged away from the US model in 05, but next year they become the same again. Can't comment on GM because Euro GM is more similar (at least the electronics, ignition, injection systems, comfort close etc.) to VW than anything from the US.

howie ll wrote: No 1N4004 is the safest, buy 5 2 for the trunk lights, 2 for the locks and one for the trunk release relay. Tedmund he isn't doing indicators, I'll email what the indicator setup looks like, 4 x 1N5404s for the front and backs and 2 x 1N4004s for the side. Since don't seem able could you post the pictures for our friend? RED / yellow feeds to trunk lights, diode inline, bands towards light, lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil.

Don't really understand what you mean when you said "bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil." And with comfort close. Your said "also extend lock via comfort close," Does this mean to extend the lock wire to the lock wire on the viper brain?