big 12 volt power issues

the 250/1 does have signal sensing. according to the manual at jlaudio.com anyway's. the 250/1 in my opinion wouldn't keep up to the 300/4 with my 500/1 I had barely enough low's, the 300/4 will handle 2ohm load's on all it's channel's and put out 75 watt's to each channel reguardless of ohm load 2 3 or 4. my 300/4 was able to kill the stock speakers in my civic also it did eventually only blow one speaker so i replaced them all. either way you may have to up the highpass cross over when your putting so much power to stock speakers. also if grab all aftermarket speakers even from ebay you won't be sorry!! it sound's so good!!... hope you fix your battery drain problem. maybe disco the back battery for the night and see if that helps the drain situation. a little more feedback would be good too.

If you are using the signal sensing feature on the 250/1, try switching it off when you park the vehicle.  It is very sensitive to any voltage change it sees and could be turning the amps on with no signal.  Both of your amps idling could easily drain the battery in 24 hours. 

when installing my second 500/1 I used the signal sensing on the first amp and ran the remote to the second amp ( signal sensing won't work on two amps in a row, or may but the jl manual say's not to )   either way I found it to be a pretty big pain the but because you had to have the volume so high to get the first amp to turn on!! basically if I set the volume so that my neighbor's wouldn't be wized the sub amps would turn off.

I have the signal turned sensing OFF.G 35 Driver

so what else do you want us to tell you?? a few of us have given you quite a few options and trick's to maybe fix or diagnose your car, but you don't give us any feedback. signal sensing off. ok... what else have you tried. did you disco the back battery yet?? sounds to me like battery drain from the other crappy battery. I wrote a moderatly sized post asking questions and giving a few suggestion's, and you just say ..... " no " ..... ????? are you fixed then??? signal sensing is off ... must have fixed it ;)

What does disco the back battery mean? I have taken it out and now I have no power problems. but that is not what I was trying to accomplish. So a battery isolator is not the way to go here?G 35 Driver

sorry disco is my short version of disconnect, which you did. you may want to put the better of the two battery's in the engine compartment. otherwise yes definitely a battery isolation relay would be a good thing. Just run the isolation relay off a switched power supply so that battery is only connected while the ignition is on. You could also measure the resting voltage's on both battery's, by the sounds of your problem's you will have a significant difference. do your light's dim when the bass hits with the current setup?? also there is a stinger 200 amp battery isolation relay which I think is just a borg warner 3098. at the local parts store I was able to get her down to about 45.00 canadian for it. but before I buy that I have a couple big relay's out of a ford diesel used for running the glow plug's and such so I'm going to try them first. just some more idea's for ya. either way glad you isolated (excuse the pun) the problem. :)

Can they have Bernanke too...?(haemphyst...?)M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

What haemphyst said about parallel batteries is correct, but in practice even with matched batteries there can be problems - typically temperature for enginebay & boot installations. Also if there is some failure of one battery, it's wasteful having to ditch the other and buy a new matched set. The advantages with a "charging" isolator is that there is no need for matched batteries, and a faulty battery will not drain the other(s) (except where the charge cannot keep up with the fault - but above 70-100A that's usually a hot battery cum fire etc). The charging isolator is merely on that interconnects the two batteries when the vehicle is charging. They are usually a plain relay controlled by the alternator's charge lamp output, else an overvoltage sensor.    For big alternators powering a big aux/audio battery, usually it is the primary/main (enginebay) battery that is isolated with the alternator feeding the aux/boot battery. (That's to enable common 60A or 140A relays to be used. Otherwise relays and cabling needs to match the current demand of the audio.) There can be an issue as to how much the primary battery feeds to the aux/audio battery, but with circuit breakers and that the primary is usually a "standard" wet-cell battery and the aux is an AGM/VRLA, it's usually not a problem (unless either is very discharged).

So my alternator is 110 amp. My main batter is probably around 600-800, my auxiliary/audio battery is 850 amp. I need to get a battery isolator to match the alternator then? So 100 amp isolator would not be sufficient? I need a 110? Or more?G 35 Driver