the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

kia forte viper 5701 parking light


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
genexis 
Copper - Posts: 50
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2010
Location: Singapore
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 7:48 AM / IP Logged  
ok thanks. I'll take a look again.
But i read that the viper 5701 has some virtual tach, and i do not need to connect this wire? of course i'll prefer to connect it up, but i'm having some problems locating it.
chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,419
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 7:52 AM / IP Logged  
i have done some with virtual tach (when im in a time crunch) and so far so good and you dont need the tach wire for that it reads the cars increase in voltage to verify if the car is running
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
genexis 
Copper - Posts: 50
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2010
Location: Singapore
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:06 AM / IP Logged  
great! thanks for the confirmation.
One last thing before I commence on my installation. Possible to double check my wiring?
Harness 3:
Pink ignition 1 (+) output -Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
RED / white fused 30a (contact 87 of RS Flex Relay) - Not used.
RED / black fused 30a( for accessory and starter relays) - Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
Violet starter output (car side of starter wire) - to be confirmed tml
Green starter input (key side of starter wire) - to be confirmed tml
Red 12V(+) constant fused 30a input (for Ignition1 relay) - Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
Pink/black Flex Relay contact 87a (default is ignition 2) - not used
Orange accessory output - Acc1 wire (controls aircon)
Pink/ White Flex Relay output (default is ignition 2) - Not used
Harness 1
RED / White aux trunk release (-) 200mA - boot release relay
Red 12v (+) constant input - Direct to batt.
Brown siren (+) output - viper siren
WHITE/ Brown Flex parking light relay 87A - not used
Black chassis ground - GND
Violet door (+) input - not used
Blue trunk (-) instant trigger input - Trunk trigger
Greendoor ( -) input - Door trigger
WHITE/ Blue remote start activation (-) input - Not used
Whiteparking light output 30 - Connect to fuse in series with L/R parking lights (L & R isolated with diodes).
Orange ground-when-armed (-) 500mA output - not used
BLACK/ white domelight 200mA - not used
Neutral safety switch - jumpered together (ON)
Brown brake - Negative trigger brake wire
Gray hood pin - hood pin at the front
Tach wire - not used
2nd remote start status - not used
BLACK/ White neutral safety wire - GND
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  
Looks good. However, I am pretty sure you'll have to power the 2nd accessory. I remember getting a short starter grind upon key takeover on this vehicle...
genexis 
Copper - Posts: 50
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2010
Location: Singapore
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:39 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the confirmation.
Could you help me understand how would the accessory2 wire cause the starter to crank the engine?
How should i wire the relay?
86 - access2 key side
85 - acc2 car side
30 - gnd
87 - acc1 ?
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:56 AM / IP Logged  
I wish I could tell you why, but being honest I'm not sure why. All I remember is that I had to interrupt the 2nd accessory while remote start was on to not get the starter crank "chirp".
As far as powering up the 2nd accessory, all you have to do is connect RED / white to 12v and pink/white to 2nd accessory.
I had to cut the 2nd accessory wire and I believe I wired it like this -
85 - orange on satellite harness (- acc. out)
86 - 12v
30 - 2nd accessory (car side)
87a - 2nd accessory (key side)
87 - 12v
genexis 
Copper - Posts: 50
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2010
Location: Singapore
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  
oh ok, so no additional relay is needed? Just make use of the onboard flex relay? Let me read up on the configurations for the flex relay. I'm assuming i need to configure it to output as accessory2?
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
genexis wrote:
oh ok, so no additional relay is needed? Just make use of the onboard flex relay? Let me read up on the configurations for the flex relay. I'm assuming i need to configure it to output as accessory2?
I also edited the post above with how I wired a relay to stop the starter grind.
And yes, you should set it as 2nd accessory.
genexis 
Copper - Posts: 50
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2010
Location: Singapore
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 9:07 AM / IP Logged  
from your post, it shows that orange wire from brain will be connected to both acc1 and the relay for acc2? Do i need any kind of isolation?
I should just go for the flex relay solution then. Its just connecting 2 additional wires to the harness.
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 06, 2010 at 9:16 AM / IP Logged  
genexis wrote:
from your post, it shows that orange wire from brain will be connected to both acc1 and the relay for acc2? Do i need any kind of isolation?
I should just go for the flex relay solution then. Its just connecting 2 additional wires to the harness.
It is a different orange wire. You will connect the heavy gauge orange to your acc1 as you stated, but there will also be a much thinner gauge orange on the satellite harness that I connected to the relay.
For powering up the 2nd accessory, connecting RED / white and pink/white is definitely the easiest way imo.
You may not absolutely have to power 2nd accessory if you don't want to. I got in the habit of powering all wires if they're available.
However, I am fairly certain you will still need to interrupt the 2nd accessory wire regardless to prevent the grind. For some reason feedback is caused upon key takeover.
The way I wired up the relay above, the key cylinder will be isolated from the 2nd accessory wire during remote start, until after you do key takeover and hit the brake.
Page of 4

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, March 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer