diy of viper 5901

X2 with Ted! commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

Howie mate, you sir, are a legend. I (and many others googling will) thank you immensely for explaining in great detail every step. I was already feeling pretty confident that I would get at least the locking/alarm functions working,as the seller did provide the DEI technical sheet which helps locate the factory wiring easily. Now I feel like I could do it blind folded (except I'd have trouble determining the colours). I will look into fixing the one-touch first before adding in the alarm system. Thanks for clearing this up. I also realised that the vipers wiring is all coloured (in Aus, I think insurance policies require that alarm wiring be all black). Obviously the coloured wires are necessary to distinguish which wires are what; when you pull it out of the box. I do however plan to get everything in and functioning properly, then tape the doodie out of everything with black electrical tape (wiring, looms, brain, 556 bypass module etc.) so that it can't be easily tampered with. I know that an alarm system is not a thief-proof device, it's only a deterrent, but at the very least having electrical tape on everything should make it a pain in the arse to tamper with. Is this a bad idea? I understand that troubleshooting any future problems (which I miss during initial testing) will then become a pain in the ass too. What are your thoughts, comments, concerns on this idea? Once again, I thank you for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge - your help and directions will be invaluable to myself and others.

Thanks, but today a frozen, miserable legend! I forgot, heat shrink sleeving, 2.8mm, 4.8mm and 9mm. The black wires only refer to the Oz/Kiwi versions of our Cat 1 alarms, the insurance companies are walkers. It's impossible to steal ANY European car made after about '94 without inside (the dealer) access to a coded key. If you did want insurance approved it would have to be a Viper 500XV with a remote start but that's a piece of rubbish. Yes I always tape over.

Ok, so I've completed most of the things you set out for me, but the wiring is becoming a big mess. I'm going to start snipping/wrapping up the wires that are not used in my application, so... Are these wires used in my application (I'm assuming not) H1 - 1 Trunk output.... no solenoid, so no trunk pop for me. H1 - 4 Parking light isolation wire.... no idea what this is for? H1 - 6 (+) Door Trigger Input.... ummm, I'm using H1 - 8 for this instead, right? H1 - 9 Dome light supervision output.... The ZKE body electronics module should do this when the doors unlock, so this isn't needed? maybe? H2 - 1 through to 7... unnecessary... no OEM alarm anymore, and no AUX outputs used yet... so, not needed. Other than those I'm stuck on these... (The wiring descriptions don't really explain...): H1 - 10 Remote Start/Turbo Timer activation input... wth? I know I'm not using a turbo timer but... what has this to do with remote start? Harness 3 is remote start, is it not? H2 - 8 Horn Honk output... I'm guessing this is connected to the horn... but it seems too simple. H2 - 11 Flex relay control output... I have nfi, wth. H2 - 12 Accessory output... hmmm H2 - 13 Starter output... hmmm mmmhmmm H2 - 14 Ignition 1 output.... ok, I still have nfi. I wish the instructions explained the terminology a little better.

I thought that they would have been needed, but then why are they called outputs for that? If they are connecting to the ignition switch, wouldn't they be "inputs" rather than "outputs" for the viper? Thanks for clearing that up though. :)

The majority of the wires i listed in the heavy gauge harness are outputs for the remote start that will duplicate what you do when you turn your keys and supply the wires with current! The pink wire is and input for the system's ignition zone as well as an output! The other three input wires would be the reds that connect to constant twelve!commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

I was talking about the harness 2 accessory/starter/ignition outputs. They are only very small gauge (definitely not enough to be supplying power). The heavy gauge wires are in harness 3. I am about to wire them up now... so, Harness 3 H3 - 1: Ignition 1 input/output... goes to? H3 - 2: (87) flex relay input... not needed? H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output... connect to accessory wire in loom? H3 - 4: (+) Starter output (car side of starter kill)... goes to starter from Viper? H3 - 5: (+) Starter input (key side of starter kill)... goes to viper from ignition loom? H3 - 6: Ignition 1 input (30A fused)... uh? H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output... not needed? H3 - 8: (87a) Flex relay input... not needed? H3 - 9: Accessory/starter relay input (30A fused)... H3 - 10: No connection They aren't explained very well. I'm assuming this "flex relay" does not apply to me? I've no idea what it is, and there are no left over parts, so I'm assuming its not needed... Still, I'm not sure why there is accessory/starter/ignition in the smaller gauge harness 2.

Edit: Ok, so I've discarded pins 2, 7, 8 and 9 from harness 3. I have no idea what to do with them... so I guess they're unnecessary. pin 1 - (+) ignition 1 input/output, and pin 6 - (+) ignition 1 input (30A Fused) I soldered together and connected to "Hot when in Run & start", i.e. when the car is running. pin 3 - (+) accessory output... I connected this to "Hot in accessory, run & start" for example when the car is in accessory (first position) or when it its running. Now I'm stuck with pins 4/5 pin 4 - (+) starter output (car side of the starter kill) pin 5 - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) Where is the "starter kill"??? do they mean the "hot when in start only" i.e. the temporary 3rd key position which is used to power the starter motor temporarily?

OK so I've wired it all up. The door locks were wrong, had to re-do them... I deadlocked myself in the car when I was testing it and couldn't get out. Now I've fixed the door locking but the Remote start does not work. As soon as I press remote start it gives an error and I get seven flashes. The manual says this means it is not in manual transmission start (MTS) mode. (its an auto anyway...) I tried following the instructions to enable MTS anyhow, but it does not respond to my commands. The procedure says 1. with the engine running, set the parking brake and leave the engine running. 2. release the foot brake (if applied in step 1), or press and release the foot brake anytime. As long as the engine is running there is no time limit to perform this step. 3. withing 20 seconds of foot brake release, press any command button on the remote, after 20 seconds return to step 2. 4. The parking lights flash 5 times to confirm MTS mode enable and the remote start activates the ignition outputs. 5. turn off and remove the key from the ignition switch. the engine remains running. 6. exit the vehicle, close all the doors and arm the system. 7. the engine turns off and after a few seconds, the remote start off message plays to confirm. I never get the parking lights to flash.... any help??