diy of viper 5901

Oh man... I can't believe I overlooked that. Thanks for pointing that out... I will definitely sleep better tonight.

Pins 4 and 5, green and purple (violet). Cut the BLACK/ white starter wire, connect green to key side and purple to starter motor side. You also mentioned an ignition feed that was 30amp fused. This should be soldered to a 30amp constant 12V+. Your indicators:- GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ blue. Locations...rear of hazard flasher switch OR steering column loom OR inst. panel split the white wire via 2 x 3 amp diodes 1N5404 with the bands towards the indicator wires. Doors and trunk. I did an 04 Japanese grey import R type on Monday. I couldn't get access to the fuse box for all the rubbish previously joined so I pulled the ins. panel (dead easy) and picked up doors and trunk triggers there. If you go to the dome light feed, in Oz that's the cable coming from a white 2 way plug at the top of the kick panel, it takes about 2 secs for the dome light to dump, enough time to affect the alarm I was installing, that's why I went to the inst. panel, in fact I still couldn't find them probing the leads so I went to the solder tracks behind the warning lights and picked up from there. Your lock comment, grey plug nearest in kick panel about 8 wires, to of the nearest are lock and unlock. Now you see why we stress this as NOT DIY!!

Please also note here how the Commonwealth sticks together, or the Empire Strikes back! You were helped by a Canadian, a W/Indian and a Brit

Been a hard week and I've effing lost it with bleeding Hondas on my brain! Indicators. Set the light output on the jumper for NEG. and join it to the brown blue at the Hazard Switch. Starter wire is either light GREEN/ black or BLACK/ green, or blue Ignition is light green, Second ignition is purple (violet). DON'T connect the Viper's acc wire. Pick up your power supplies at the red feeder cables to the ignition. Behind the glove box is a yellow quadplug, pin 4 is lock and 17 opposite, unlock. 4 is usually vacant so bare 6mm of cable shove it carefully in to the slot and cable tie outside to secure. Don't forget to programme total close.

Ok disregard all of my previous posts It seems I didn't explain properly what my current problem is, so I will start from scratch. This is where I'm at:

• Door locks are working, both dead lock (when arming) and unlock (when disarming). This was already fixed.
• The alarm/shock sensor is working, it triggers the alarm and pages the remote.
• The parking lights are working, they flash when the alarm chirps/triggers (I connected to wire on hazard light switch without issues already.)
• Dome lights work when disarming, as the ZKE body electronics module does this automatically with door unlock, and stays on until a door open switch is triggered. I have therefore not wired up the Viper Domelight output and did not need diodes.
• The siren, trunk and boot triggers are working. I used the previously installed trunk and hood pin switches. These are working fine, the Viper recognizes them correctly, and their respective "zones".
• The Horn output in harness 2 pin 8, I have not yet connected. I may do this later, but for now the siren is sufficient and as I understand, all it does is trigger the horn when the siren is activated on full trigger (unless programmed otherwise).
• All of the (-) 200ma Starter / flex relay / accessory / ignition1 outputs which are in small gauge, from harness 2 I have NOT wired up. I am NOT referring to the wires in the remote start harness. These harness 2 wires are labeled (-) and say 200ma so I assumed these were something to do with switch signals and the "flex relay" setup for triggering a relay? I still have no idea what a "flex relay" is, and have assumed its not needed in my application. Correct?
• The heavy gauge wires in the remote start harness (harness 3) I have wired up as follows:
• H3 - 1: Ignition input/output ..... wired to ignition loom, where hot in run & start (ie. the On/run position)
• H3 - 2: (87) flex relay input (30A fused).... not wired to anything.
• H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output... wired to ignition harness, where hot in accy, run & start. (i.e. first position/accessory)
• H3 - 4: (+) Starter output (car side of starter kill).... Have snipped the (BLACK / YELLOW) starter wire in ignition loom, and wired this to the harness/car side.
• H3 - 5: (+) Starter input (key side of starter kill)... Same as above, except wired to the key/ignition side of cut wire.
• H3 - 6: Ignition 1 input (30A fused)... also wired to the ignition loom where hot in run/start (On/run position). So essentially, this is performing the same as H3 - 1.
• H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output... not wired to anything.
• H3 - 8: (87a) flex relay input... not wired to anything.
• H3 - 9: Accessory/Starter relay input (30A fused)... not wired to anything.

Now... I have paired the remote successfully - this is not an issue. I have programmed the viper using menu 3, feature 1, setting 2 to tell the viper that the car is an automatic. (Thanks Tedmond ) I have programmed the viper using menu 3, feature 2, setting 4 to tell the viper to use tachometer as the engine checking mode. I have completed the tach-signal learning procedure successfully. However the car still will not remote start. It is not same error I was having before (where the remote would reply with an instant RS error when given the RS command - Thanks to Tedmond I got past this). Now the remote sends the signal, and the car begins to flash the parking lights as if the car has remotely started. However the engine does not start, or even crank. The remote also displays the 12 minute counter for the remote start runtime. It is hard to determine what the error is, as the parking lights do not flash after it gives up (like it did previously) - and I have to run the event history procedure to find out what the error was. When I do this, it displays the several of the last few errors and its hard to tell which is the culprit). I also tried to remote start with the key in the ignition barrel (yet in the off/lock position) to use its EWS signature, as I thought that I may have wired the 556U incorrectly. However, the car still does the same thing. How is the 556U supposed to be wired anyway? Howie, I know you told me to wire for European setting without the RF loop... What exactly do you mean? I understand the European setting means the jumpers are in the position for 60 windings... and I guess the RF loop is the black antenna which is supposed to loop around the ignition but... what do I wire the Pink, Violet and Green wires on the 556U to?: "PINK (+) Ignition Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s true ignition output. (Refer to Latching Input, page 7.)" "VIOLET (+) Keysense Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s positive keysense output wire. (Refer to Key Sense Inputs, page 7.)" "GREEN (-) Keysense Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s negative keysense output wire. (Refer to Key Sense Inputs, page 7.)" The explanation for latching/key sensing (in the manual) did not make much sense to me so I didn't wire them up. However, now I cannot see how the 556U would be doing anything - all that is wired up from it are the constant 12v, the chassis ground and the blue status output to the viper. Where would it be sending the key's signature to the EWS unit? It would have to be through one of the pink/violet/green, correct? I'm assuming the remote starter looks for the signature of the key in the 556 regardless of whether or not there is a key in the ignition because the car will not remote start even if there is a valid key sitting in the ignition barrel in the off/lock position. The car does start properly when I start it with the key (so the starter wire must be connected the to the viper correctly, I'm assuming). This leads me to believe my problems lie somewhere with the 556 bypass, and the immobilizer. Also which wire do you mean when you say "DON'T connect the Viper's acc wire" ? Please tell me you're not referring to H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output.... 'cause I've already wired that up...

Uhhh I just re-read my post about the MTS mode. I will rephrase it: The RS WAS giving an instant error, saying that it was not in Manual Transmission Start (MTS) mode. I then tried the procedure (outlined in the manual), however the step which was supposed to confirm/signal to me, using the parking light flash - did not signal me. The lights were hooked up previous to this, and worked on arm/disarm. My point was that the MTS enable procedure was not working. Anyway, this was worked out by Tedmond, and my issue is now where it is at in the post above. Also forgot to mention - the doors are also working properly as triggers/zones like they should.

You're obviously not reading what I've already told you. DON'T Join the Viper's ACC output to the car's, use the flex relay as a second ignition output and join it to the vehicle's violet ACC wire. There's a technical reason for this. Follow the 556 instructions properly ref. European cars and restore the jumper to it's original position. Plug H3. All the wires with fuses, power them up! I won't tell you any more since you already know it all and refuse to listen.

Sorry if I came across as rude or ungrateful - It was not my intention. I simply misunderstood your directions. How come the Vipers ACC Output shouldn't be used? By using the flex relay do you mean I should use "H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output" to connect to the Violet accessory wire? BTW, I found out that the "Flex relay" is simply a relay, integrated into the Viper unit, which can be programmed for different functions, therefore it is a flexible relay. It really should be explained better than that. Now I understand what the flex relay wires are for.

Edit: Ok, so its all wired up - I charged the battery, and then tested. Everything is working Door lock & comfort close works. The remote start works; I have wired the safety to the parking brake rather than the reverse wire, as the car already will not start in any gear other than Park or Neutral (Yes, I even tested. All the electronics come on when it tries, but then when it goes to crank, the RS shuts down). So, having a safety on the park brake as well seemed a more logical option. The Foot brake works to shut it down properly too. I am happy. I am curious though, as I had already wired the Vipers ACC to the cars, and it is working. I would like to know why you think it should not be done this way...?