diy of viper 5901

on "normal" cars ahah, the acc is dropped when the key is put into the start position.

for bmws, the acc, ign are constantly live feeds even when it is in the start position. ultimatly why you wire an ignition wire to the acc wire of a bmw.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Hope I've explained in my PM but Ted's right, try leaving the vehicle 5-10 minutes (i.e. wait for the transponder to time out) then see if it starts,. If it fails, wire it as we said. By the way I also have problems with the flex relay, though I've never installed one, I've read the instructions and the reason's for the flex relay aren't explained too well. The reason for using reverse rather than handbrake is that it's AUTOMATIC (pardon the pun), anyone trying to steal (yes I know it's alarmed, factory immobilised etc.) will have to shift the gear lever past park and REVERSE to get into neutral and drive.

Haha, it's good to hear that I'm not the only one that was confused with their relay instructions. From what I learned, the "Flex relay" is just a relay built inside the Viper Brain/control centre, and its terminals are connected to the wires which are labelled "blah blah... flex relay". It is called a "flex" relay because it can be programmed by the brain to do one of several different functions (once installed). Really it should be called "the in-built, programmable relay". It really is that simple. As for getting to understand where the wires go, I would suggest doing a few things before you even start (things that I learned the hard way). 1. When you are cutting into the ignition harness, just attach 1 wire to each of the Constant 12v, accessory, ON (12v when running) and starter. Use these 4 wires to run under the dash to where ever you are locating the Viper brain. I did not do this, and after re-wiring things several times I ended up with 7-8 wires all different all different colours, going all about the ignition switch, several of which were soldered to the same wire, but at different points... It was a total mess. I found that the original H3 wires were about 4" too short to reach my switch loom from the glove box... so this meant I had to spend AGES re-soldering other wires to extend the heavy gauge wires just 5" so I could actually connect them to the ignition. This was an absolute PAIN IN THE BUTT. Just get some long wires, in the same (or heavier) gauge, and tap into the ignition loom, then run these wires over to the brain (as stated above). Then you can use these as the ignition loom wiring points to connect up your alarm, it will save you A LOT of trouble and keep your ignition loom area very tidy. 2. Make sure that when your add these extension wires that they are tapping into the Ignition loom, between the ignition switch and any harness that is under the dash which connects the switch & loom to power. This is important so that you can disconnect the harness and not worry about live ignition wires dangling about when you are running wires/soldering stuff. When its all wired up & double-checked, you just plug the harness back in and bam! they've got power again. If you wire on the other side (car side) of the harness... then the only way to disconnect the constant 12v when working is to disconnect the battery... that will suck. 3. Find all the wires in the harness which will use a common source, then bind them together, and therefore you will only need to solder them once. What I did was solder it all wire-by-wire, and ended up having to solder 4 or 5 wires to the same constant 12v, and then several wires to the same ground etc. etc. This was very silly on my part - instead you should just find all the wires that need 12v, wrap them in electrical tape together, then all together, solder them to the single 12v extension wire that you ran from the ignition loom. Do the same for all the wires that are going to ground, and then the same for any that need accessory/switched 12v etc. From memory (I will double-check this and post back...) I wired H3 as such: 1- Pink, Ignition 1 input/output..................... 12v When in Run 2- RED / White, Flex Relay Input (30A fused)........... Constant 12v 3- Orange, Accessory Output.......................... 12v When in Acc. 4- Violet, Starter output (car side).................**See Below 5- Green, Starter input (key side)...................**See Below 6- Red, Ignition 1 Input (30A fused)................. Constant 12v 7- Pink/White, (30) Flex relay output................ Not connected 8- Pink/Black, (87a) Flex relay input................ Not connected 9- RED / Black, Accessory/starter relay input (30A).... Constant 12v ** Basically anything with an inline fuse on the harness, needs to be connected to 12v constant. For wires 4 & 5: You need to find the wire that sends 12v when you turn the key to signal the starter motor... For this you will need to have a wiring diagram of your car's power distribution/starter system. When you find this wire, you will need to cut it in two. The side that is connected to the ignition switch (key) will connect to Green #5, and the side of the wire which leads to the wiring loom harness (car) will connect to Violet #4. This is essentially being wired in series, and not parallel (tapped) like the other wires of H3. The key-signature immobilizer system on your car will most likely vary to mine if you aren't performing the install in the same make/model/year of car. For this you need to read the bypass manual and install it from there. However - for me, my install went like so: When you remove the plastic under panel below the key/ignition switch, you will see 2 very small green wires which were running up to a black loop that wrapped around the barrel of the ignition - this black loop is the antenna for receiving the key's signature, which then runs to the EWS II immobilizer system via the two green wires. What I had to do was cut ONE of the green wires (either one, it doesn't matter which), then add the bypass unit in series to the green wire. Which car are you installing your 5901 in?

Just double-checked... those wiring suggestions above should be correct.

Scotty...why didn't you read my original post properly! I said join to the ignition loom over the transmission hump BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX! I say these things for a simple reason that I've done these cars many, many times and I know where everything goes. Apart from the status (GWR) wire to the 556 I NEVER go to the driver's side on an E36. You'd have saved about 2 hours! Sacredcreationz please redo your post and start another thread the Eclipse has nothing to do with BMWs and it's simply too confusing. Scotty, your comments on the flex relay are spot on!

As per HowieII I did start a thread based on the fact that my car is a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse but none the less it was good to hear the final install of this gentlemans Viper 5901.  The only thing I think you might want to change is that if someone wanted to steal your car all it would take is a pre made plug.  Without cutting the wires after the plug (between car and plug and not ignition and plug) then the viper will not provide the starter kill.  If someone unplugs your ignition plug and jumps a couple wires, it will start and then run.  Just a thought not trying to tell you how to do anything by any means.  Once again great job figuring this stuff out.  Viper doesn't communicate very clearly.

Good point BUT the BMW has a factory transponder immobiliser. The potential thief would be tearing down the lower dash, hoping he/she knows all about the 556 box, the siren blaring anyway!

howie ll wrote: Scotty...why didn't you read my original post properly! I said join to the ignition loom over the transmission hump BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX! I say these things for a simple reason that I've done these cars many, many times and I know where everything goes.

I tried! I really did! lol. I pulled out alot of stuff behind the glove box trying to find the wires from the ignition, but there was just way too much wiring for me to find anything in there or the looms that fed over the transmission hump - I ended up thinking it would be easier just to tap into the loom from the switch. The wiring behind the steering wheel is like a jungle, there was no way I could trace the wires from behind there...

What? Just remove the zip (cable) tie to the left of the hump,easily replaced, upper loom, red, purple (violet) light green and light GREEN/ thin black trace, that's it! Hard? Easier than driver's side!