Viper 5901, 95 Pontiac Trans Am

joebubba wrote: Just to clarify: The wire going from the alarm to the relay should be the THIN violet wire (pin #3) from the 5-pin Remote Start Auxiliary Output harness (small gauge wires). Probably just a matter of wording, but you say purple in one line and violet in another.

Funny you mention that wire because in the install manual its referred to as a violet wire but in the quickstart guide that comes with the alarm its referred to as a purple wire. Yes though, this is pin #3 in the install manual and I believe pin #13 of the 18 pin harness on the alarm. Also, I am essentially starting the car with the clutch in. What I've done is taken a piece of electrical tape and wrapped it around the switch so its always pressed. That's how I've performed all of my testing before when the r/s used to work. monty, I checked all of the fuses and they all seemed fine. I even pulled them out just to be sure nothing was blown and they all looked fine.

[QUOTE=ssbowtie1][QUOTE=joebubba] Hook a DMM or test light up to the H3/ #4 (Violet) wire. I hooked up a DMM to the splice where the violet wire and the starter wire that goes to the starter connect. When I manually start the car, I see 12V there. When I try to r/s the car, I never get 12V there. I'm guessing the car turns off before that happens.                                                                     Have you checked the RED / black H3/9 wire with a meter for constant 12 volts. I'd check it at the Viper connection. 

ssbowtie1 wrote: ...Also, I am essentially starting the car with the clutch in. What I've done is taken a piece of electrical tape and wrapped it around the switch so its always pressed. That's how I've performed all of my testing before when the r/s used to work....

Well, again, I'm just an amateur, but please don't fall into this trap and assume that just because the switch is depressed you have current going to the brown wire. You need to actually test the brown wire for current, not assume that because you have the switch depressed all is good. Don't take this the wrong way, I'm not criticizing. I'd also point out that earlier you said you were certain that the tach wire was connected properly and as it turns out it wasn't. Trust me, I've been there, done that, and been red in the face because I'm assumed I had it right, rather than testing the connection. I still don't think that your current problem is the clutch switch. As long as you don't have power coming from H3/#4 during the remote start sequence, there is something else besides the clutch switch causing the problem.

 Now if you are not getting output from the viloet during R/S sequence something else is wrong! Check your nss wire, brake wire and your hood switch connections, control modules rarely go bad without cause! Take a meter and verify do not assume! Then post back! Re-run all programming procedures to ensure all settings are the same!commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

Well guys after much frustration I'm going to have to throw the towel in. I warrantied out the alarm and got another brain. I hooked everything back up and manually bypassed the clutch safety switch and everything worked fine as before. So instead of bypassing the clutch by using a relay as mentioned earlier, I decided to just run the green and violet H3 wires after the clutch safety switch. Here's the diagram for reference: I cut the brown wire and connected the green wire to the key side and the violet wire to the starter side. To my dismay, suddenly the same problem I had earlier returned. The car would go through the remote start sequence but completely die when it came time to crank the starter. Exactly as shown in the video a few posts back. So I concluded that somehow my alarm brain is getting fried, since the new one worked when manually bypassing the clutch switch, but suddenly stopped working after trying to wire the clutch switch bypass. Anyway thanks everyone for the help, its just so frustrating to have something not work without having any idea as to why it is.

Sorry to hear about your dilemma. Hard to believe someone hasn't done this vehicle before and can tell you exactly how to wire it. I'm waiting on a part myself to finish my 5901 install. Door triggers is what gave me fits. Finally found out I needed a module. Did you try it again, wired the first way? Was it still non functional? Might not have Fried it. Maybe someone who has done this vehicle will see this new post. Good luck.

ssbowtie1 wrote: So instead of bypassing the clutch by using a relay as mentioned earlier, I decided to just run the green and violet H3 wires after the clutch safety switch.....I cut the brown wire and connected the green wire to the key side and the violet wire to the starter side. ....

No! That is doing nothing for you other than closing the relay when the RS sequence is activated. The violet wire is supposed to provide + to the starter circuit to turn the starter. Instead, it's supplying + to the coil of the relay which does nothing other than close the relay The car will never start this way. Did you reference that link I gave you where the guy did a RS in an F-body?

joebubba wrote: ssbowtie1 wrote: So instead of bypassing the clutch by using a relay as mentioned earlier, I decided to just run the green and violet H3 wires after the clutch safety switch.....I cut the brown wire and connected the green wire to the key side and the violet wire to the starter side. .... No! That is doing nothing for you other than closing the relay when the RS sequence is activated. The violet wire is supposed to provide + to the starter circuit to turn the starter. Instead, it's supplying + to the coil of the relay which does nothing other than close the relay The car will never start this way. Did you reference that link I gave you where the guy did a RS in an F-body?

You're right joe, I realized that after I looked at the diagram further. The yellow wire is split into two, one going to the clutch switch and the other to the starter. However, once I tried reconnecting everything back the way I had it and manually bypassing the clutch, the remote start started acting like it did before. The thing that is frustrating is why the brain seems to die after trying to bypass the clutch. I was just afraid to hook up the relay again and have it fry the brain, but it looks like that was taken care of already lol. Yes I did see your link by the way. In fact, I used that link as reference before. His car is a 96 with a BCM, but its the same general concept. Unfortunately, he never hooked up a remote start though, just did the alarm wiring.

Are you sure the first brain was fried? I mean, did they test it after you returned it? Or are you just guessing? I assume you did a successful tach learn on the new brain? And you set menu item 3-2 to option 4?