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Viper 5901, 95 Pontiac Trans Am


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joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  
OK, now i'd go back and jump the clutch switch, then try a remote start again.
ssbowtie1 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:44 PM / IP Logged  

joebubba wrote:
OK, now i'd go back and jump the clutch switch, then try a remote start again.

That's what I've been doing. I completely removed the relay that I tried to wire up If you look closely in the vid, you'll see that I have the clutch switch jumped just like I did in the last vid when everything worked. Basically I have everything wired and jumped exactly like I did when I made the last vid that showed everything working.

joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  
Well, I'm stumped. Are all of your heavy guage wire connections soldered? Double check all connections, something has come loose or the brain has gone bad.
Are you back to MT mode with tach signal enabled?
ssbowtie1 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:55 PM / IP Logged  

joebubba wrote:
Well, I'm stumped. Are all of your heavy guage wire connections soldered? Double check all connections, something has come loose or the brain has gone bad.
Are you back to MT mode with tach signal enabled?

Yes and the MT procedure worked just fine. Foot on brake, ebrake up, foot off brake, press r/s button, turn off car, get out and lock. The car then turns off but when I try to start it back up it does the same thing as you see in the vid.

Every single connection was soldered. Heavy gauge wires and all. All connections are solid. Are Viper alarms known to go bad like this? I'll see if I can get a replacement brain and will report back with results.

joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 5:10 PM / IP Logged  
They can go bad, but not very often. I really doubt that is the problem, but it could be. My bet is the clutch.
Are you absolutely certain that your clutch switch is properly bypassed? Have you tested the brown wire for a positive signal using a test light or DMM?
We can assume you have the correct wiring on the heavy gauge harness because it did RS at one point and nothing has been changed on that harness, correct?
If all connections were soldered the whole time and you've double checked to be sure they are still good, then I'm guessing that either the clutch is not correctly bypassed or the brain has gone bad.
My car did the exact same thing when I didn't have the clutch bypassed. I could enter MT mode, exit the car (or open and close the door), arm the system (car shuts down) and then try a restart. The accessories would come on, but no start.
joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  
Hook a DMM or test light up to the H3/ #4 (Violet) wire.
Try the RS. Do you get a positive signal coming from that wire at any time during the RS process? If not, then start the car with the key and check the green wire for a positive signal. If you have a signal on the green and none on the violet in the above tests, then the brain may be bad.
If there is a signal on the violet wire, then the starter cutout relay is blocking the start signal coming from the remote start (the coil is not being energized).
If there is a signal on the violet wire, then try the start again, but this time stay in the car (just open and close the door before arming). After the RS is armed, manually push in and hold the clutch, then try the RS.
This test should be valid whether or not the clutch is properly bypassed.
ssbowtie1 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 7:48 PM / IP Logged  
joebubba wrote:
Hook a DMM or test light up to the H3/ #4 (Violet) wire.
Try the RS. Do you get a positive signal coming from that wire at any time during the RS process? If not, then start the car with the key and check the green wire for a positive signal. If you have a signal on the green and none on the violet in the above tests, then the brain may be bad.
If there is a signal on the violet wire, then the starter cutout relay is blocking the start signal coming from the remote start (the coil is not being energized).
If there is a signal on the violet wire, then try the start again, but this time stay in the car (just open and close the door before arming). After the RS is armed, manually push in and hold the clutch, then try the RS.
This test should be valid whether or not the clutch is properly bypassed.
I hooked up a DMM to the splice where the violet wire and the starter wire that goes to the starter connect. When I manually start the car, I see 12V there. When I try to r/s the car, I never get 12V there. I'm guessing the car turns off before that happens.
I'll check the green wire tomorrow.
This has gotten me thinking...since everything worked fine then everything stopped working after I tried to hook up a relay to the clutch switch, is it possible that the violet starter output that I used to turn on the relay somehow saw 12V from the starter output and led to a short which fried the brain?
I hooked up the wires the same way t&t and joe listed. I had:
86 and 87 spliced into each other and both wires connected to the yellow clutch wire.
85 was the purple neg starter output
30 was the brown clutch wire
86 and 30 were opposite from what joe told me but I doubt that would have caused any issues since 86 and 30 should be interchangeable.
Can a relay be bad and cause current to flow to pin 85?
joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  
ssbowtie1 wrote:
....is it possible that the violet starter output that I used to turn on the relay .....
....85 was the purple neg starter output
Just to clarify: The wire going from the alarm to the relay should be the THIN violet wire (pin #3) from the 5-pin Remote Start Auxiliary Output harness (small gauge wires). Probably just a matter of wording, but you say purple in one line and violet in another.
Did you try to remote start while sitting in the car pushing in the clutch?
And no, highly unlikely the relay was damaged.
joebubba 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2005
Posted: February 20, 2010 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  
ssbowtie1 wrote:
...I hooked up a DMM to the splice where the violet wire and the starter wire that goes to the starter connect. When I manually start the car, I see 12V there. When I try to r/s the car, I never get 12V there. I'm guessing the car turns off before that happens.
I'll check the green wire tomorrow.
No need to check the green wire if the car is starting with the key (sorry, wasn't thinking).
If you're not getting power coming from the H3/ #4 violet wire during the remote start but the accessories are powered during the RS, then it sounds to me like there is a problem with the brain.
monty862 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2009
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: February 21, 2010 at 1:13 AM / IP Logged  
I know I'm stating the obvious here, but I haven't seen it mentioned in your posts. Have you checked the fuses in the 12 volt heavy H3 harness? One of those goes to the crank relay in the Viper. If it was blown no crank would occur in RS. 
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