Viper 5901, 95 Pontiac Trans Am

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ssbowtie1

Copper - Posts: 74

Joined: January 11, 2010

Location: California, United States

Posted: February 16, 2010 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged

the # is y o u t u b e not sure why it changed the link.

x1le

Copper - Posts: 171

Joined: August 01, 2009

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: February 16, 2010 at 9:18 PM / IP Logged

spaghetti!

haha just kiddin man. glad you got it workin. wasn't too bad, right?

joebubba

Copper - Posts: 107

Joined: December 21, 2005

Posted: February 16, 2010 at 9:23 PM / IP Logged

In the video, I couldn't tell if you were engaging the e-brake while the brake pedal was depressed.

Also, probably a little late, but I found this link which might be informative:

alarm install for F-body

ssbowtie1

Copper - Posts: 74

Joined: January 11, 2010

Location: California, United States

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged

Hey guys so I tried to wire up the relay like previously mentioned and the remote start didn't work. So I disconnected the relay and the remote start seems to have stopped working.

I can manually start the car without any issues. I can also put it in Manual mode and I get verification that the r/s is in manual mode. Once I exit the car and close the door and lock the car, the car turns off as to be expected.

When I press the r/s button, I see the accessories turning on. Then I hear the relay clicking that would send power to the ignition wires, then everything turns off. It tries it again 2 times then the lights flash 5 times. The manual says 5 flashes could have to do with the Brake being on, but the brake is fine, plus if there was something wrong with the brake, the system wouldn't allow me to enter manual mode before exiting the car.

joebubba

Copper - Posts: 107

Joined: December 21, 2005

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:01 PM / IP Logged

Off hand, I'm guessing you don't have the relay wired correctly. The system is receiving the remote start sequence from the remote and the accessory circuits are powering on as designed, but something is preventing the starter/starter circuit from engaging. I would agree with you that the brake wire and e-brake wires are connected properly.

You had a couple of problems earlier. Just to update us, can you answer these questions?

1. How did you do resolve the tach learn issue?

2. How did you resolve the previous issue you had when the clutch was byppassed? ("....for some reason I have to press the alarm neutral switch off then on each time before I can have the r/s be ready")

But my bet is that the relay is not wired correctly. I'd double check your relay wiring.

ssbowtie1

Copper - Posts: 74

Joined: January 11, 2010

Location: California, United States

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged

1. I had the wrong wire before. Found the right wire and it worked fine.

2. Not sure I've fixed this issue yet, but I have some good leads. I think it has to do with my e-brake light being on all the time. This is because I haven't bled my brakes yet and the proportioning valve is sensing an error.

I removed the relay and have just been trying to start the car the way I used to and its not working. I changed the remote start to auto mode, just so I don't have to deal with the shut down sequence until I fix the issue. I also tried other modes besides tach, such as virtual tach, voltage, and even tried turning the tach options to off.

Here's a vid I made. As you can see when the starter should be getting power, everything just dies. It tries again 2 times then I just get the error.

http://www.#.com/watch?v=sF3piKWQhOU

As usual the # is y o u t u b e

Could it be that the main module is dead?

joebubba

Copper - Posts: 107

Joined: December 21, 2005

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged

ssbowtie1 wrote:

So were you still having to sequence the toggle switch before you could enable MT mode?

ssbowtie1

Copper - Posts: 74

Joined: January 11, 2010

Location: California, United States

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged

joebubba wrote:

So were you still having to sequence the toggle switch before you could enable MT mode?

Yes but I do believe that once I bleed the brakes and the ebrake light is only engaged from the ebrake then that should fix the issue but I can't say for sure because I haven't tried it yet.

joebubba

Copper - Posts: 107

Joined: December 21, 2005

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged

Well, the best thing would be to fix the known issue (having to cycle the toggle switch) before you start chasing a new one. They could be related or not.

Do you have a diagram of the e-brake circuit?

Confirm:

1. you've verified that the e-brake connection(wire going to the alarm) gives a negative signal when the e-brake is on and gives no signal when the e-brake is off?

2. you've verified that the brake wire to the alarm gives a positive signal when the brake is pressed?

ssbowtie1

Copper - Posts: 74

Joined: January 11, 2010

Location: California, United States

Posted: February 20, 2010 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged

joebubba wrote:

Well, the best thing would be to fix the known issue (having to cycle the toggle switch) before you start chasing a new one. They could be related or not.

Do you have a diagram of the e-brake circuit?

Confirm:

1. you've verified that the e-brake connection(wire going to the alarm) gives a negative signal when the e-brake is on and gives no signal when the e-brake is off?

2. you've verified that the brake wire to the alarm gives a positive signal when the brake is pressed?

Yes and Yes

In fact I just went outside and disconnected the proportioning valve plug and the ebrake light now only turns on when I pull the ebrake. I put the car in Manual mode and did not have to turn the neutral switch on then off to get the car in Manual mode. However once I leave the car and try to start I get the same problem as posted above.

Its interesting that once the relay that should energize the starter turns on, it seems like everything just dies as you can see in the vid. I'm starting to lean towards the brain being dead. All my connections are soldered, so there's no way anything worked loose and I just double checked them. Also the car starts just fine without the remote start :(

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