1995 subaru legacy lsi keyless options

Background: The 1995 Subaru Legacy LSi has a built-in factory alarm system - old school, not a keyless-entry system that doubles as an alarm. Locking the doors with the key or the power locks arms it. There was an OEM keyless entry add-on available (manufactured by Code Alarm). That setup includes a relay on the add-on harness that is involved in arming/disarming the built-into-the-vehicle alarm system when the keyfob is used to lock/unlock the car. How it does that (pulse vs. steady voltage, what voltage, etc.), I don't quite know. Fast forward to 2010. Here's the rub. Keyless entry systems for other cars are setting off the panic alert for my OEM add-on. For example, folks who have PT Cruisers set it off when they unlock their cars. Fun huh? It's really charming when in front of a restaurant. So I need to replace my keyless entry with something that isn't going to be set off by the guy next to me. Bugger is, that system is going to have to interface somehow with the factory alarm arm/disarm. I have shop wiring diagrams to help me out, but can anyone recommend a system? And any thoughts on what that relay might be all about?

Start by testing the wires at that relay, see what occurs when you arm and disarm, and what the wires are conected to.

I'd reccoment a Viper 211HV.  Around 55-60 bux and very full featured.

In either kick panel you should find: Unlock = WHITE/ Green Lock = GREEN/ YELLOW These wires will arm and disarm when you lock and unlock your doors. The security module is behind the right side of the glove box and you can also access the wires there.

Mark, thanks for the recommendation. One thing that the factory alarm doesn't have is a shock sensor, and I am thinking that I might opt for one of the Viper alarm systems (vs. straight keyless) as a consequence. Any thoughts on the Viper 3203? 91stt - I have been eyeballing those wires. Know exactly where they are. What I'm not clear on is exactly how they interact with the security module. Do you send a pulse down one to arm the factory security module, and one to disarm? Or supply constant +12V to the wire in question? Or something else?

You would just send a pulse on the wire to lock or unlock.

I've never been a fan of the LED Responder remotes.  The models with the LCD screen are much more functional, and easier to use,  in my opinion.

Mark Mizenko wrote: I've never been a fan of the LED Responder remotes.  The models with the LCD screen are much more functional, and easier to use,  in my opinion.

Thanks. Got a specific model number you'd suggest?

3305V looks interesting... anyone know where to find an install manual for that baby to see how it wires in?

Ha, I got impatient. Found the manuals for the Viper Responder 350 and ordered one. We'll see how it turns out... time to grab the voltmeter :)

I'm back! :) Need a little help here guys, just to clarify some things. The factory keyless entry module I'm swapping out appears to provide: - Direct dome light supervision via on-module switched (-) for the lighting circuit. - Direct voltage for the motor(s?) in the driver's door actuator, supplying whatever polarity required. If I am understanding what I read in the Viper manual correctly, the Viper Responder's module provides neither one of these, working this way instead: - Dome light supervision circuit will drive a relay, which in turn handles the actual current for the lighting circuit. - Lock pulse drives an offboard relay(s) (not supplied), which will in turn supply voltage to the actuator as required, in whatever polarity required. Can someone confirm/deny? I am also thinking that the actuator, which if I recall is a 2-wire, uses polarity reversal - apply +12V to one wire with (-) to the other and it locks, reverse and it unlocks. Can someone confirm/deny this as well? Thanks for any insight...

Well, I finally took on the install. Took some doing but I figured out... eh... most of it. The dome lamp supervision is giving me a problem and I could use some input. The module provides ground, max current 200mA, for a relay coil, with the relay providing the actual path to ground for the dome light. There doesn't seem to be enough voltage coming through the coil for pull-in to take place. I have tried 2 different Bosch-equivalent SPDT relays, so relay failure does not appear to be the problem. I also took a voltmeter to pins 86 (+12V fused) and 85 (the module's dome lamp supervision wire) on the relay socket. When the module is providing ground, there is only 0.7V going from pin 86 to pin 85, with about 31mA of current. Any thoughts? There is a blocking diode running from pin 86 to 85, but I can't imagine that the diode is somehow gobbling up all that voltage... could it?