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2007 g2500 chevy van power windows


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topinstaller200 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 14, 2010 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  

use either COLIBRI or SPAL DELUXE kits for your van. Colibri is easier to mount and the motor is faster and stronger in my opinion. You also need a 3-switch kit . On average the motors should cost you $130 + $75 for switch kit.

I fair price for your windows and locks with keyless entry should range between $500 - $650

Electric Life kits are more expensive and would normally be the best choice

Also there was an installer on this site from the New Jersey area looking for work. Maybe you can contact him for the install. I will repost his info if I find it

topinstaller200 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:02 PM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:28 PM / IP Logged  
I forgot to check today.  The boss will be at work tomorrow, hopefully I will remember to ask her.
spirostats 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:43 PM / IP Logged  
topinstaller200 wrote:

use either COLIBRI or SPAL DELUXE kits for your van. Colibri is easier to mount and the motor is faster and stronger in my opinion. You also need a 3-switch kit . On average the motors should cost you $130 + $75 for switch kit.

I fair price for your windows and locks with keyless entry should range between $500 - $650

Electric Life kits are more expensive and would normally be the best choice

Also there was an installer on this site from the New Jersey area looking for work. Maybe you can contact him for the install. I will repost his info if I find it

thank you very much for your info. I pm'ed the installer you recommended and waiting to hear from him
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 15, 2010 at 10:50 PM / IP Logged  
spirostats 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot wrote:
http://www.haneline.com/el-lifeapps.html
Wow this is weird!....I followed your link and tried to call the phone numbers listed on their webpage and none of them work i get a recording saying
"the number you have dialed is no longer in service..."
Ill try to find electric life somewhere else
thanks again
spirostats 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 9:45 AM / IP Logged  
I contacted electric life they were very helpful. I think In have all I need
thank you all
Spiro
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 17, 2010 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged  
Electric Life are the best.
spirostats 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 9:14 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Electric Life are the best.
sorry i meant "a1electric.com"....cheaper and more helpful.!
spirostats 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posted: July 08, 2010 at 7:38 AM / IP Logged  
Ok
I purchased a w02f-740T and a STAR-3 S98 from A1electric
I have installed everything else but Im having a little difficulty finishing up the alarm installation (avital 3100).
my questions are as follows:
1. I was able to install the alarm to the point where it locks and unlocks the doors successfully (I connected the blue and the green wire (from the separate harness _H2 door lock harness_) and it works fine. I also installed the siren and it works.
Im now trying to understand how to wire the H1/5 (green door trigger input) and the H1/7 (violet door trigger input) wires from the main harness. I read on the instructions that Im supposed to connect them to the "negative and positive door pin switch". The problem is that my van does not have (or does not have a traditional ) "door pin switch" but the dome light works as it should _doors open/light on and vise - versa.
I have a wiring diagram that I downloaded from the Internet that lists certain wires in the vehicle harness (under the steering column) that i think i might be able to use. For example it lists "dome light supervision' and " door trigger" but im not sure which ones they are exactly and dont know which ones to connect (+/-), in order to output to the alarm the state of the doors (open/closed)
2. this question is along the same lines as before but it pertains to the parking lights and dome light. More specifically Id like to find out where to connect the H1/4 (interior illumination) and H1/2 "selectable light flash" wire I read somewhere that the H1/2 could be wired directly to the front parking light on the vehicle but im hopping that this wire could be intercepted somewhere inside the vehicle so I don't have to run a wire through the firewall and engine compartment in order to get to the front parking light.
3. when i purchased this alarm I did not realize that it uses the same button for the lock/unlock buttons. The problem is that I sometimes find myself wondering if I hit the button by accident and disarmed the alarm involuntarily. This wouldn't be a problem if I can see or hear the alarm being triggered. But in a situation where I cannot get visual or sound confirmation (for example, behind a closed door in a noisy environment), Id like to find out if there is a way to program one of the other buttons that Im not using, (trunk release or panic) where by, no matter what state the alarm is in, when I hit that button it always locks the vehicle and arms the alarm.
Thanks for your time and sorry about the long post:)
Spiro
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