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removed rattler 300 now car won’t start


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eggs 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 16, 2010
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged  
Hi all,
I'm new to the12volt and hope I've posted this query in the proper location.
I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata, from which I've removed a Rattler 300 (after market vehicle security system) and now the vehicle refuses to start. Please note, the alarm system had been installed by an electronics superstore and not by me.
The online Rattler 300 installation manual can be found here: http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/rattler/N431R.pdf
While the battery cables were disconnected, I removed the Rattler 300 control module. I cut and taped 6 alarm system harness wires that were joined to my vehicle's wiring using a "tap soldering" method.
Of the 6 alarm system harness wires:
4 wires were blue, green, yellow, and white and originated from the 12-pin primary harness
2 wires were blue and green both with black stripes and originated from the 6-pin door lock harness.
In addition, one yellow wire from my vehicle--which I believe to be the vehicle's 12 gauge ignition wire--was cut and each end was "butt soldered" to the ends of black wires (2) originating from the 2-pin starter kill harness port of the alarm control module.
Due to the tight quarters around the yellow wire mentioned above, as well as its reduced length, I opted to leave the bisected yellow wire as is. Instead, I cut each of the black wires (that were "butt soldered" to the bisected yellow) at their midpoints, stripped the ends, twisted them together and taped.
At this point, when I went to start the car, there was silence, with dashboard lights dimly flickering. At this point, I figured the battery had been drained due the alarm being set off several times while I tried to figure out what was wrong with it.
So I used one of those battery charger/jumper boxes with a 75 amp setting to jump start my car, thinking if the nearly 6 year old battery was dead or weakly charged, that the car should still start. But it did not. (The battery terminals were clean and the connections were tight--red clamp to battery's positive terminal and black clamp to screw on engine block.)
While the dashboard lights flickered the same as during the first start attempt, this time there was a sound kind of like a playing card in the moving spokes of a bicycle tire or perhaps a little like the sound a woodpecker makes.
I would greatly appreciated any ideas anyone might have to offer.
Thanks,
Emily
P.S. My finances are a bit tight right now and this is why I'm trying to resolve this issue myself.
eggs 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 16, 2010
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged  
Hi again,
Sorry meant to include this last bit of possibly relevant info:
I removed the Rattler 300 as a result of:
1. the siren triggering while attempting to start the car one day
2. the siren failing to silence while using the key chain remote powered by working battery
3. the refusal of the car to start during and since this event
Thanks again.
Emily
roadshop570 
Copper - Posts: 128
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 12:01 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like starter wire is not connected properly, pull up the wiring diagram for your car then cut out any old butt connectors and clean it up add wire where needed, use soldering iron and heat shrink if possible, hope this can help. 
Chadillac
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  
You could test by baring some cable from either side of the yellow wire that was cut and rejoined to see if the starter motor lead is now OK, BUT if you get these sounds ONLY when you turn the key to the start/run position, then it's time to change your battery!
Also all those joins should really be soldered. Was your mum into the Bronte Sisters?
topinstaller200 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 10:56 PM / IP Logged  

Well you took out a perfectly good alarm for no reason.

They way your alarm acted prior to you removing it is because your battery is no good.

Replace your battery and all your problems will go away instantly.

Dont tell me you had your battery tested or it looks fine or the lights and radio works.

BAD BATTERY

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 17, 2010 at 12:40 AM / IP Logged  
How many times have we (as pros) heard "the alarm's draining the battery". In truth it's the other way round and when the battery's voltage drops below a certain level, the alarm "thinks" the ignition is being turned on and triggers.
eggs 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 16, 2010
Posted: June 17, 2010 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged  
Much thanks to everyone who took the time to read and respond to my post.
I will get a new battery and report how it goes. ...If that doesn't work, perhaps I'll try cutting out the butt soldering on the ignition wire and "cleaning it up."
@ howie II: No, my mum does not have a particular interest in the Bronte sisters, nor the Pointer Sisters. I think she just likes English names.
eggs 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 16, 2010
Posted: July 05, 2010 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
Hi all,
Just a status update:
I brought my old battery back to the local auto parts store where they tested it and told me it was still in good condition (12.5 volts of starting power).
And I remembered what topinstaller200 advised, "Replace your battery and all your problems will go away instantly. ...Dont tell me you had your battery tested."
So, I got a new battery and success! My car started up! :) :)
Thanks!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 06, 2010 at 1:31 AM / IP Logged  
Glad everything is OK, thanks for the courtesy of letting us know.
skinnytitan 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: January 26, 2011 at 1:52 AM / IP Logged  
Hi guys,
I'm having the same situation with a rattler 300 in my 2001 4runner. Except, even though I replaced my battery, but I believe my rattler's kill switch has been activated and won't turn off because the car still doesn't even turn over.
Also odd, is no other electronics work, no dome light, no headlights... but when I toggle my alarm on and off with the key fob, all lights flash... so I'm getting juice.
I don't want to remove my rattler, I want to reset it and turn off the kill switch so I can start my car.
I have the key fob and it works. I can arm and disarm the alarm fine. Yet even after disarming, it won't start. I can even put the alarm in valet mode (LED solid red), still no start.
I have tried pressing the valet switch with all sorts of ignition key combinations, on, press, off, press 2ce, etc... To no avail.
Any idea how to reset the kill switch and re-enable the rattler to still function as before?
thanks
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