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xpresskit or idatalink?


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 8:37 AM / IP Logged  

The ADS AL CA Red +12v wire goes to +12v constant at the remote start ( no need to go to the ignition switch ).

The ADS AL CA Blue/White (-) Output When Running goes to the Pythons' (-) Status Output ( aka GRW, Ground When Running ).

The 09 Rogue doesn't have a trunk release or the Python doesn't have a Trunk Release Output?

Here is an ADS AL CA in W2W mode for a 2011 Rogue w/Intelli-Key almost ready to install..........

                                                        xpresskit or idatalink? - Page 2 -- posted image. 

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 8:44 AM / IP Logged  
Don't forget the ADS  AL CA Pink Ignition wire.    Also the ADS AL CA outputs a nice Tach signal you can use instead of going under the hood or in Virtual / Voltage mode. 
Soldering is fun!
criper 
Member - Posts: 30
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Joined: October 02, 2010
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 12:08 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the advice guys. I've put together a cheat sheet of all connections.
If anyone could review it, I would appreciate it. I have a few outstanding questions (highlighted in yellow)
xpresskit or idatalink? - Page 2 -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  

The Rogue has an ACC2 wire at the ignition switch harness.  Believe it or not, you will find two pink wires at the ignition switch. The ACC1 is Pink, same color but seperate wire from the cars Ignition1 wire, also Pink.  ACC2 is Brown.  Verify with DMM.  Is the Python Ignition 2 output selectable / programable to ACC2?  If it does, then program it to ACC2 and connect it to the Pink accessory wire.

The Neutral Safety wire should be connected to chassis ground for an automatic transmission vehicle.

With the ADS AL CA, the remote starts Lock and UnLock outputs do the locks and the arm / disarm function.  No need to connect both sets of signals to the bypass.

The bypass' Pink Ignition wire should go to the remote starts Ignition wire from the relay harness that goes to the Rogues Pink Ignition wire at the ignition switch.

Not familiar with the Python One unit and don't have an install guide, but there should be an output called (-) 200mA Status Output or (-) Ground While Running.  It is usually Blue or Blue/White on the Viper units.  That is the wire that goes to the bypass Blue/White Gound (-) Output When Running wire.

There are usually multiple +12v constant wires on the remote start unit.  Vipers are Red, RED / White, RED / Black.  All should be connected to a suitable +12v constant source.

Don't forget Page 2 of the ADS Type 10 Install intructions.  You will need a relay and wire it into the IPDM under the hood.  Use a DMM to verify the Neutral Safety wire.

Soldering is fun!
criper 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2010
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 8:24 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks Kreg! This is very helpful.
Two points of clarification.
1. In the first paragraph you mention the ACC1 is Pink and ACC2 is Brown, but then you say connect the remote start ACC2 to Pink. Did you mix them up? Does it matter?
2. I've reviewed page 2 that shows the relay at the IPDM. My only experience with relays has been replacing them so I would always bring the dead one to the parts counter and ask for a new one. Where should I go to get one, and what type should I get?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 13, 2010 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  

The ACC wires don't matter for order.  Being as you had the Brown as ACC1, I listed Pink as ACC2, although the wires guides show it reversed.  Here is a crude drawing of the ignition connector :  

                                                  xpresskit or idatalink? - Page 2 -- posted image.

A 30/40A SPDT relay is required.   Preferrably a quality and sealed one due to the engine compartment location.  Most better auto parts store should have them.  Also available on the internet.

Soldering is fun!
criper 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2010
Posted: October 15, 2010 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  
I picked up a relay at Napa, and have my cheat sheet updated. I think I have everything ready to go.
Here it is: Cheat Sheet
Thanks for all the help.
97gss 
Copper - Posts: 235
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2010 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  

criper wrote:
ADS module sounds like the way to go.
About the IPDM relay, is that needed if I have the standard key and not the intellikey?
Since we're on the topic of relays, are there any other relays, diodes or anything else outside of what comes in the starter and bypass kits that will be needed?

I was wondering about this as well and if anyone knows the answer.

Mark Mizenko 
Copper - Posts: 460
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 13, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 15, 2010 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  

I never had to do the relay at the IPDM on any Nissan with a standard key.

criper 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2010
Posted: October 15, 2010 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
Mark Mizenko wrote:

I never had to do the relay at the IPDM on any Nissan with a standard key.

Since there is some differing opinions on this, does anyone know what the intended purpose of adding the relay is. Or what problems could happen if it was not installed?
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