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what order are the sub,amp,and deck?


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crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 21, 2010 at 4:27 AM / IP Logged  
Just real quick. Stupid question, but just want to confirm. I'm installing a stereo in a Chevy Silverado '07 Extended Cab for the first time.
Can anyone tell me the order Im supposed to hook everything up with? Is everything supposed to connect to the amp, or is only the subwoofer supposed to connect to the amp.
I was thinking it was either like this:
Head Unit->Amp->(Sub)&(Front Speakers)&(Rear Speakers)
http://zenn.tripod.com/jazz/system.gif
Or Like this:
Head Unit->(Front Speakers)&((Amp)->(Subwoofer)&(Rear Speakers)
http://www.nax.com.au/main/GraphicsFAQ/Layout4.PNG
The Deck has: Sub Out (Left and Right), Front Line Out (Left and Right).
The Amp has: Audio In (Left and Right), Speaker Out (Left and Right)
Thanks! Once I get the order setup and figure out how to remove the deck, and how to access the front speakers, I should be good!
Here are the parts I bought:
Parts:
    500W Amplifier
    2x 6.5 240W Speaker
    2x 10" RMS Single Loaded Sub
    Antenna Adapter
    Chevy Deck Converter
    KDHDR60 JVC Single Deck Stereo
    Deck Hookup Kit
    Amp Power Kit
soundnsecurity 
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 21, 2010 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  
im assuming you just have one amp for the subs and in that case the radio goes first which connects to the amp with the rca for signal and that will them connect to the subs with speaker wires.
your speakers will be running straight from the deck or the factory amp if you have bose in your truck.
the only stupid question is the one not asked, so ask if you aren't sure about something before you blow something up.
as for radio removal look in the instructions for the dash kit and it should tell you how.
the front doors are a little tricky. there should be some screws under a cover behind the door handle, pop the cover off and you will see the screws. there could be more screws but i cant think of where they are so just look hard for any more pop off covers and hidden holes for screws.
the lock tab also has a cover that you need to pop off but once it's off you just slide the tab off.
after that the door pops off with little snaps all around the door and if they are fresh they might be kind of hard to get out just by pulling. i usually use a mini crow bar or a panel popper to do the job because a regular screwdriver will probably eat up your door.
after you get that popped off you still need to be careful not to break the cables off of the back of the door handle. there will two cables on the back of the door handle and you will need some sort of pick or needle nose pliers or even a small flat head. its hard to explain how to get them out but you should be able to figure it out by just looking at how they go in. DONT just start pulling at them because you'll be there all day and you'll probably break something in the process.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 21, 2010 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  
wow, your mini disassembly guide helped me out a lot. I went outside and just tinkered around after reading what you said before work, and it seems like that should work! YES! That was the part I was most worried about. Thanks :)
As for the setup loop, I'm a bit tired from midterms. Did you say that the radio is connected directly to the speakers, and since I have only one amp, The sub should be the only thing connected to the amp, and the amp connects to the deck? Is there a big difference in sound quality?
Thanks
I forgot to mention. The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 21, 2010 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
yes, since your amp is a mono amp you cannot run regular speakers AND a subwoofer on the same 2 channels. you wont be able to filter out the high frequencies out of the sub woofer and vice versa wont be able to filter the bass from the highs, aka your system will sound like doo doo. for now it would be best for you to just run the sub off of the amp you have because the sub needs to have an amp( you cant run a sub off of the deck). run the door speakers straight off of the deck using the harness adapter you bought for now until you can buy another amp for your highs if you decide you need one.
the rca's that came with your amp kit will go from the subwoofer output to the input of your amp. you will also need to run what we call a remote wire, which is just a single wire, that goes from either the red wire or the blue/white at the back of the radio, to the terminal on your amp labeled "remote". these are the only wires that get connected behind the radio. dont plug the rca's into the amp until all other connections are made.
now, as for the power for your amp, the main red power wire that comes with the amp kit needs to go straight to your battery +, with the inline fuse holder 14 inches or less from the battery. and please, please,please, dont run the power wire through the door jamb. try to run it through the firewall into the engine compartment. if you cant find a spot have somebody drill a hole for you that has some experience doing it. i would hate for you to drill through your brake booster or mangle a wire harness by drilling through the wrong spot.
the last part of installing your amp will be the ground. the ground for the amp should be as short as possible so dont be afraid to cut any extra. ground the amp as close as possible. find a good spot and shave all of the paint and primer from the spot, a sander works great but a flat head screw driver will do the trick. BE SURE TO CHECK THAT WHERE YOU ARE DRILLING IS NOT GOING TO HIT THE GAS TANK!!!!! short self-tapping screws are the best and safest to use for a ground. make sure it is tight and use multiple screws if you need to.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 22, 2010 at 3:56 AM / IP Logged  
wow thanks. i would have ran into the amp power question later on. Sorry if this is long, just wanted to verify some things.
i got the door and deck off earlier today but it got dark, so i stopped. ill finish it tomorrow.
I have pictures of the parts im unsure of. mainly from my amp power kit and something called a stereo replacement interface. i REALLY wish there was someone near me that could do this, but sadly i live in an isolated area. anywho, let me see if i got this right. Correct me if im wrong if you dont mind. You've been a BIG help. And no doubt, your posts are what keeps me sane when im doing all this.
http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0068.JPG
^Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery.
http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0069.JPG
^Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird.
http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0076.JPG
^Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 22, 2010 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  
ok, for your amp kit, the thick blue wire is the power wire that goes straight to the battery, the black "kicker box" is the main fuse holder. this goes onto the main power wire close to where it connects to the battery.
the clear wire is the remote wire, it goes to either the blue wire with a white stripe coming from the back or the radio.
as for the radio plug, it looks like they gave you the plugs for both the new style chevy truck like yours and the older model. the set of wires with the big gray plug on it probably wont be used. the other set of wires should plug into the plugs that you take out of the factory radio. the other side of those wires will plug into the box.
looks like the plug is made for a factory amplified system because instead of having speaker wires it has RCA jacks. those RCA jacks will just plug into the back of the radio.
it would be easier to tell you what to do with that plug if you could take another picture with the wires unwrapped and spread out so i can see what exactly is going on. ive never seen that brand plug before.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 23, 2010 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  
sweet ok. yea, didnt know what to od with that gray plug. thanks, youve been a big help so far. ill work at getting more pictures soon.
Okay. I got everything almost installed. The only thing I have left to do is hookup the receiver, run the RCA cable to the amp, then run the RCA cable from the amp to the two subs.
I have a quick question though. Each sub has a left and right input. So thats four total RCA inputs (2 left and 2 right). The Receiver only has a left out and right out to the sub (Red and white). How do you suggest I hook them up?
is it okay to only use the left of the left subwoofer, and the right of the right sub? Or should I split them all.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 23, 2010 at 8:13 PM / IP Logged  
well first of all, you dont run RCAs from the amp to the sub. you run speaker wire from the amp to the sub. RCAs only carry a low voltage signal to the amp so it knows what to play. for a sub you should not need to split the RCAs at all. they just go straight on to the RCAs input of the amp.
a question for you, can you tell me what are the subs' ohm load. if you have the box or the owners manual it should be somewhere on those under "dc resistance" or "impedance" and it should say something like 4 ohms or 2 ohms. it will be something chose to those numbers.
if not then it would be nice if you have a digital voltage meter. do you have one?
im asking these questions so i can tell you how to wire your subs to the amp. it shouldn't be complicated its just a good idea to know whats going on.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks soundnsecurity. I appreciate the patience you're taking to help me. Yeah, I was saving the subs for last. It has a red and white connector on the sub. I mistook that for a RCA. If you press the red and white connectors down, it opens up a hole to put the speaker wire in.
So I just need to hook the positive and negative in from the left sub to to the positive and negative out from the amp? And do the same for the right sub? So 2 total wires total go out from each +/- on the amp?
And I ran across a problem too... I have everything hooked up besides the amp and subs. I was testing the speakers and the receiver. If I turn the volume up to 16 (max volume is 50 on receiver), I hear a popping/clicking Sound. If I turn the volume up, I hear the popping and cracking sounds more often. If I turn the receiver bass up, it also comes on more often. I can't figure out why its doing that. I made sure all the receiver cramps to the deck were secure. I'm thinking It's because I left the factory tweeters on (the small speakers along the front side of the car). It seems like the audio signal goes out from the receiver, factory split in the door to the tweeter and also ran to the door speaker. I just clipped the old speakers off, cramped the new speakers to the old wire, and didn't change the tweeter because the new tweeter didn't fit. I HOPE thats why its popping. So I just need to clip off the old tweeters and leave it open? Im thinking about going to a local auto shop and asking if they can tell me why it pops (if they can do it for under 20)
Here's some specs/pics/data/audio:
Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Per channel output into 4 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 300Wx1
Per channel output into 2 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 500Wx1
Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms | SP IN: 40K ohms
Frequency Response: 20-200Hz
Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C
Normal Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 93.8dB
Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS
Receiver: JVC KD-HDR60
Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone):
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/pop.mp3
Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box)
Sub Box:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG
My Receiver Hookup:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG
Amp Cables:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 11:53 AM / IP Logged  
tell me this, does it say Bose on the covers for your factory tweeters in the pillars?
what do you mean by the new tweeters didn't fit? didn't fit where? is the tweeter separate from the rest of the speaker? exactly which speakers did you buy?
chances are that yeah you need to clip the factory tweeter. you can leave it open but you need to cap the wires. since you are still basically running off of the factory amp's power(assuming you do have a bose system), having the extra tweeter could be throwing off the total ohm load that the amp sees making the amp act funny. but i need more info to be sure.
as for the subs you can just wire those up like you said + to + and - to -.
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