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what order are the sub,amp,and deck?


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crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 12:38 PM / IP Logged  
No, it didnt say Bose.
For the tweeters, they were Kenwood. By not fitting, I meant the housing that they came in dont fit in the actual hole the side of the car had when I took the old ones off. I can remove the casing from the Kenwood and use the actual tweeter, but I dont have anything to secure it with. It doesnt clamp in the old factory tweeter housing.
Ill try clipping the old tweeters off today.
For the subs, someone told me my setup might actually not work. That the amp is too powerful for the subs. If I hook the subs in parallel, they said that would put a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 500w RMS, the subs are only rated 300w total RMS together. So is it okay to still wire it like that? Or should I hook the subs together in series?
thanks as always!
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 3:48 PM / IP Logged  
okay, having the car's popping issue looked at by a friend. then when i get it back in a few hours, going to try and hookup the amp and sub. hopefully no issues.
do you think there will be a issue of power difference bc my amp is 500w (or 300w i think in4ohms?), and my subs are 300 (150) RMS?
I wonder how I should wire it.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 10:54 PM / IP Logged  
okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.
but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  

crewxp wrote:
okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.
but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.

If you have a multimeter test the resistance of the subs to see if they are blown.

Put your multimeter on the resistance (ohms) setting and see what it reads. Red probe to positive, black probe to negative. If it's a DVC sub, test each coil individually.

MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 25, 2010 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  
oh my god! someone pm'd me and helped me fix it! thanks!!
I took the amp ground off the seat bolt and held it to the door latch on the side of the car, and it stayed on! I turned the volume up and I could hear bass!! It was awesome! Turns out it was that after all. All I have to do now is fine a place to ground it. Every bolt and piece of metal inside the car (what i had it hooked up to before), has a white paint coat over it. Im guessing that takes away the grounding. So not sure what to do from there.
And does anyone know anything about this? I dont know how. Not sure if I blew it doing all this, or did it a while back, but my rear left speaker doesnt work. Can I use the front speaker I used to use (factory), and hook it to the back? Or are the rear speakers different than the front?
So all the questions I have left for now (bc im hard to understand sometimes)
1.) So my sub and amp setup is good? Someone had pm'd me it wouldnt work. Heres his PM:
[QUOTE]Ooohhh its kind of a mismatch there. That amp is too much for them subs. You need 2 subs with bout 300w RMS. That amp can either run 500w or 150w to both subs. If you hook them up at 2 ohms this will put out 500w RMS and thats too much for them subs.
If you hook up them subs in parallel that would put a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 500w RMS, the subs are only rated 300w total RMS together.
If you hook up them subs in series, it adds resistance or OHMS. Since I am assuming you have single voice coil subs, this would put them at an 8 ohm load which would be about 150w. Only way to work it to put a 4 ohm load is if the subs have dual voice coils at 2 ohms each. Thats what I mean when you shop around for sub equipment you gotta match it close so you can work with it.[/QUOTE]
2.) Any suggestions on how to find a good spot to ground my amp? The amp HAS to go under my front seat, and the ground cable is about 3 ft long.
3.) Can I use my front factory speaker in the back? Do you know anything about that?
Thanks a lot! I imagine Ill run across another problem tomorrow, but hopefully not. I'ld appreciate it if you could help me then too if I do run across something again.
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 25, 2010 at 8:34 AM / IP Logged  

No... The subs are fine. Just make sure the gain is turned way down. While your amp CAN handle sending more power it's not going to hurt it.

It is very standard for a vehicle to have painted metal. Just take some sandpaper or a wire brush and remove the paint. Then use a self-tapping screw and a star washer and secure your ground directly to the bare metal. You can do the same thing on a factory bolt, but it's sometimes more difficult to find a factory bolt that will fit through the ring terminal of your ground wire.

MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 25, 2010 at 8:36 AM / IP Logged  
And yes. You can use the factory speaker in the back. It's 6.5 inch speakers all around. I'd tell you to just pony up a little bit of money and go ahead and go get some decent aftermarket speakers for all around, but if money is tight, then yes you can use the factory speakers in the back.
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
soundnsecurity 
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 25, 2010 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged  
to ground the amp you need to lift up the carpet, scrape or sand off the paint in one spot until you get to bare metal, under the truck where you intend to put your ground just to make sure you wont put a screw through a wire harness or fuel line. once you are clear just screw the ground to the spot where you shaved the paint off. make your ground as short as possible cut any extra but leave a little bit of slack so the amp can move if you need it to move.
yeah its possible that your amp might be too much for those subs but if you are careful with how you set the amp and dont just go turning all the knobs up. you might have to settle for a little less bass for now just to keep your subs alive.
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: October 25, 2010 at 3:39 PM / IP Logged  
oh and one more thing. you more than likely are using the wrong harness for your radio installation. you dont have any Bose markings on the tweeter covers so that tells me you dont have the factory amplifier.
the harness they gave you installs using RCA's instead of speaker wire which tells me that it is for the amplified system. this could be why you have those popping sounds coming from your speakers. your speakers are being driven straight from the RCA's and not the speaker outputs.
if you have a digital multi meter you really need to test whether or not the RCA jacks in your wire harness are actually just speaker wires. if they are and you keep running your system like it is you will fry your radio.
crewxp 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 26, 2010 at 2:14 AM / IP Logged  
thanks!! I struggled with all the problems you mentioned today. BestBuy sold me everything. After reading your post, I drove a couple of hours to the nearest bestbuy and told them. They had in fact sold me the wrong harness. Ugh. The popping issue went away but still popped at high volumes and sounded flat. Turns out I had the speaker converter (little black cable with what feels like a fuse inside) hooked up to my tweeters. But the audio went from the tweeters to the speakers also, so I had to wire the speakers straight to the receiver.
And it fixed it!! So now everything works. I used a drimmel to sand the paint and mounted the grounding cable. All I have to do now is fine tune my audio.
The only thing Im curious about is why my bass isn't 'thumping'. My subs work, as they shake the seats a little. But its not a lot, a lot. Like I'm not wowed by them. I've been in other cars where one 12" seems like it shook my seats more than my two 10"'s do. So tomorrow I'm going to try and figure out how to get a little more bass. I just want to be able to know it can do it, of course I wont leave it like that all the time. Just when I'm showing other people :P
Any suggestions on the bass? I only have 3 knobs on my amp. Gain, EQ, and LP.
again, thanks soundnsecurity. everything youve helped me on has been spot on. It's amazing you knew what my problems were without actually looking at the car.
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