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mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 29, 2010 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged  
soundnsecurity wrote:
i guess you shouldn't get stuff installed at best buy after 5pm
At least in Ohio...
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
Mikelbolton 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: September 20, 2004
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 29, 2010 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the input you guys.

I realize that the RMS output of the amp should be at least 1k watts, I definitely want a Class D amp.  I used to run a nice Directed Audio setup in my 3000GT, and that was probably the best system I ever had (previous to my current attempt).

My truck is a 2002 Ford F-150 Supercrew.  The ultimate goal is to get a custom box to make the subs sit under the seat and fire downwards (this will require modifications including raising the back seats to accomodate the subs).  The ported enclosure I will need to measure, but I believe it to be approximately the right dimensions (again, this box is temporary til I have time to build my own, or find someone to build the box for me).

I honestly would like to run the subs at 1 ohm, because it would cut the power output of the amp at 4 ohms.  I'm slightly more interested in a monoblock amp, as that's all I've ever run on subs. 

Again, my biggest constraints are time-related.  Money is not really limited, it's just hard for me to justify spending too much, as I don't drive this vehicle that often.  My theory on life is work hard to play hard.  Like I said, I got a deal on the subs, and the current amp, so why not have a little fun. 

agraves1 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2010
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 29, 2010 at 11:20 PM / IP Logged  
Post pics when you get done. Good luck!
MECP Advanced
Make your life easier and buy a DMM.
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 30, 2010 at 9:49 AM / IP Logged  
Mikelbolton wrote:

Thanks for the input you guys.

I realize that the RMS output of the amp should be at least 1k watts, I definitely want a Class D amp.  I used to run a nice Directed Audio setup in my 3000GT, and that was probably the best system I ever had (previous to my current attempt).

My truck is a 2002 Ford F-150 Supercrew.  The ultimate goal is to get a custom box to make the subs sit under the seat and fire downwards (this will require modifications including raising the back seats to accomodate the subs).  The ported enclosure I will need to measure, but I believe it to be approximately the right dimensions (again, this box is temporary til I have time to build my own, or find someone to build the box for me).

I honestly would like to run the subs at 1 ohm, because it would cut the power output of the amp at 4 ohms.  I'm slightly more interested in a monoblock amp, as that's all I've ever run on subs. 

Again, my biggest constraints are time-related.  Money is not really limited, it's just hard for me to justify spending too much, as I don't drive this vehicle that often.  My theory on life is work hard to play hard.  Like I said, I got a deal on the subs, and the current amp, so why not have a little fun. 

My recommendation would be to just run one sub for right now until you get your custom box built.
Another thing, how much space do you have to work with under the seat. While those Type Rs aren't the biggest subs I've seen, they're pretty stout and their mounting depth is around 7" I believe. Figuring in 1"+ for the MDF and raising up the box to allow for the excursion of the cone (which I'd allow a 2" space at least, otherwise you'll have the cone slapping the floor)... You're looking at around 10-11" of space needed. I'm not saying it can't be done, and you've already mentioned that you know it's gonna take work... I'm just giving you some food for thought.
Again, good luck, and post some pictures of the build should you decide to go through with it.
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 30, 2010 at 9:50 AM / IP Logged  
Also, is your front seat a full bench? Or does it have a center console? You might consider building a custom center console box. You could then run just one of the subs and get pretty dang good sound out of it since it would be right up front with you.
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 30, 2010 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
And your ideal box for that Alpine Type-R is:
0.65 cubic feet - sealed
1.3 cubic feet - ported
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
Mikelbolton 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: September 20, 2004
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 31, 2010 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged  
The front seat is a full bench, I do realize that the rear seats will have to be lifted a bit, my intent is to actually angle the subs under the seat to face downwards at an angle, to minimize the amount of lift the seats will need. I don't typically have anyone ride in the rear of the cab, unless it's my children, but the subs wouldn't be turned up then anyway.
I am not a big fan of boss audio, I'm not sure how the quality is now, but I used to do a lot of repairs to their amps for local stereo shops, and found them to fall a bit short. Those were also Class A/B amps, mind you. I'm still a bit weary, but cost-wise, what do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/Boss-PH3000D-Phantom-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B0032FOKVA
mrm1776 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2010
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 31, 2010 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  
I personally wouldn't go with Boss. Quite a few people on here recommend SoundStream for an economic solution. Look into them.
MECP Basic Installation Tech
Certification ID: CEA195600
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Polk Audio DXi 6500 - front
Rockford Fosgate Power T1693 - rear
Alpine MRP-F300
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine SWR-1242D
tcss 
Silver - Posts: 1,623
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 01, 2010 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, where to start. The youngsters (inmates) have obviously taken over the asylum. David and David help me out here. Every 3 db volume increase requires twice the power (500 to 1000 WRMS) there is nothing "theoretical" about it. That's 3 clicks on most volume controls for your extra 200 to 400 bucks. Not really bang for your buck to me. You actually think you're going to fit an Alpine 10" R woofer in a ported box under the rear seat of a Ford truck?  Unless you raise the rear seat 1 to 2 feet it's not gonna happen. Guys, the idea is to know the vehicle and pick out the best equipment to fit the location and space you are given. It is not to buy the equipment, no matter how good the deal is, and try to squeeze it into the truck when the room is not there. Finally do you guys realize that the lower the impedence is the higher the THD is? Running an amp at an 8 ohm load will deliver an extremely cleaner sound then running an amp at a 1 ohm load. You guys are so attached to output watts that you are sacraficing a clean sound to achieve it.  Old guys viewpoint.........
There is no such thing as free installation!
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,705
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: November 03, 2010 at 12:16 PM / IP Logged  
tcss wrote:
Ok, where to start. The youngsters (inmates) have obviously taken over the asylum. David and David help me out here. Every 3 db volume increase requires twice the power (500 to 1000 WRMS) there is nothing "theoretical" about it. That's 3 clicks on most volume controls for your extra 200 to 400 bucks. Not really bang for your buck to me. You actually think you're going to fit an Alpine 10" R woofer in a ported box under the rear seat of a Ford truck?  Unless you raise the rear seat 1 to 2 feet it's not gonna happen. Guys, the idea is to know the vehicle and pick out the best equipment to fit the location and space you are given. It is not to buy the equipment, no matter how good the deal is, and try to squeeze it into the truck when the room is not there. Finally do you guys realize that the lower the impedence is the higher the THD is? Running an amp at an 8 ohm load will deliver an extremely cleaner sound then running an amp at a 1 ohm load. You guys are so attached to output watts that you are sacraficing a clean sound to achieve it.  Old guys viewpoint.........
+1! you have the perfect view point on how a sound system should be applied to cars. i agree with you 100%. i guess im a "youngster", im 24 and ive been installing for a few years now and im always looking to learn something new. when i say "theoretical" it is to say just by doubling your power you may not necessarily see a true 3db gain on a meter in a car environment. after all, even if you keep doubling your power all the way to 20,000 watts and beyond, assuming the equipment can even handle it, you will inevitably hit a ceiling at some point, and at said point, you will need to modify something else other than power input to get more deebeez from your system.
that's all i was trying to say.
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