viper 5902 in a 2007 rav4

I've ordered a Viper 5902 and while waiting for it to come in the mail I'm doing a bit of research to hopefully make the install go smoothly. Just to explain my level of experience, I've installed 4 DEI alarms so far in a '98 Tacoma, '99 Miata, '00 Civic, a '00 CR-V including features like remote start, trunk pop, and all the typical sensors etc... This alarm will be going into an '07 RAV4 Sport without an immobilizer (I was surprised at no immobilizer) or factory alarm but with factory keyless entry. I will be soldering all connections, using heat shrink where possible, testing wires with a digital multimeter, using car wiring diagrams from here, code systems, and bulldog security, and I'll be using the 5901 install manual as it is the same as the 5902 from what I understand. I'll be sure to search before posting questions but already it seems I have questions that I can't find answers for from a search alone. My first question (and I'm sure there will be more to come) is what to do with the factory keyless entry system. My concern is that it has an auto lock feature that locks the doors if they are unlocked by the factory remote and at least one door isn't opened within 30 seconds. It is also set to require a double pulse to unlock the passenger doors which I don't care for. So, can I just ignore this factory system and leave it completely intact since I won't be using the factory remotes any longer or do I have to disable it some how because it might autolock the doors in some circumstances.

Most Toyotas turn off the Factory Keyless Remotes when the engine is running.  Test this by starting the RAV4 with the key and then trying to lock or unlock with a Factory FOB.  When you install the Viper and remote start the RAV4, you will need the Vipers remote transmitter to unlock the doors ( or use the key ).   While the Factory FOBs will cause the RAV4 to relock if no door is opened in a certain time, when you unlock with the Viper FOB, the doors will not relock.Soldering is fun!

I just ran out and checked, you're exactly right Kreg, the factory keyless entry does not work once the car is running. Good to know. So is it safe to say that if I'm only using the Viper remote that I won't have any issues leaving the factory keyless entry hooked up? Aside from the auto lock issue, would there be any other reason to disconnect it or incompatibility between it and the Viper? Thanks.

No issues.  The factory FOB will be un-affected by the Viper install and still function normally.  Most customers just put it away because the Viper FOB does everything and at a greater range.  Less to carry around.Soldering is fun!

Great, thank you for the help. I'll just ignore the factory keyless entry, install the Viper 5902 as if it's not there, and pack the factory remotes away.

Next question if you guys don't mind. Still mapping out what RAV4 wires will go to the Viper 5902. I'm trying to figure out which starter wire to cut for H3/4 & H3/5 (starter kill input & output). According to the FSM wiring diagram there is a yellow & a white starter wire. The yellow wire goes the switch side of the starter solenoid (87) to power the starter and the white wire goes to the field coil side of the starter solenoid (85) to power the coil that closes the switch. So do I put the Viper's onboard starter kill relay in line with the yellow one or the white one? Seems like they would both have the same effect. Thanks

You can cut either one and run it thru the DEI alarm to create a starter kill. You will need to add a relay to energize the other starter wire during remote start unless the DEI has an extra flex relay you can use...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

First off, I'm sorry for the capital lock text below, I've cut the below info from an excel file where I'm planning my wiring. In MikeM2's post he suggested that I need an extra relay to energize the starter during remote start but I'm not sure I understand why. Can you guys please let me know if the following wiring looks correct for the Viper 5902 H3 heavy gauge remote start 10 pin plug? Again this is for an '07 RAV4 Thanks REMOTE START (H-3) 10 PIN PLUG:                           H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     TO RAV$ WHITE (+) [IGN 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: POWERS IGNITION & SECURITY SYSTEM H3/2 RED / WHITE     (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87   TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: INPUT FOR H3/7 OUTPUT H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     TO RAV4 RED (+) [ACC 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: TO ACC THAT POWES CLIMATE CONTROL H3/4 VIOLET     (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF STARTER KILL) TO RAV4 WHITE (+) [STARTER 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: STARTER SIDE OF CUT STARTER WIRE H3/5 GREEN     (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) TO RAV4 WHITE (+) [STARTER 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: KEY SIDE OF CUT STARTER WIRE H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: POLARITY FEED FOR IGNITION 1 RELAY H3/7 PINK/WHITE     (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT TO RAV4 PINK (+) [IGN 2] AT     IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: CURRENTLY IGN 2 BUT CAN BE ACC 2 OR STARTER 2 H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a KEY SIDE OF FLEX RELAY (VIPER WIRE NOT USED) H3/9 RED / BLACK     (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY / STARTER INPUT TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS      H3/10     EMPTY (NOT USED)

OK, you are connecting the white starter wire but what about the yellow one? Where they both have the same effect for starter kill but both must be energized for remote start.

It seems you have another flex relay open, use that. Connect the pink/black to the yellow starter wire and be sure to program accordingly.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

I wanted to respond to this earlier but I didn't have time. I've done some of these cars; I'll throw a few comments on here: 1. The tech sheets from the alarm companies will have you running wires all over the car and making a mess. Here's where I go for my wires on that car: 1A: The harness going up the steering column has not only all your ignition wires, but more: horn, negative parking lights, and door trigger. You'll notice there's an illumination ring around the key cylinder...that light comes on when any of the five doors are opened; use that as your door trigger. 1B: Tach at the OBDII plug below the fuse box. 1C: Brake is blue at the fuse box; easier than going to the pedal, and less chance for the wire to get tangled on the pedal. Various blue wires at the fuse box; test until you find the right one. 1D: Doorlocks in the harness in the kick panel that comes in through the door. So....you'll end up with a nice clean install, going to only four locations in the entire car. 2. Your ignition wiring above looks MOSTLY right. The only two things I see are: 2A: As Mike said, how about the second starter wire? If I'm correct about the Viper, you should be able to connect the pink/black flex wire to it, and then go into programming and program it to act as a starter output. (You only need to interrupt ONE of the Toyota's starter wires to perform anti-grind/starter kill; I recommend doing the interrupt with the Viper green and purple on the thicker of the two Toyota starter wires.....connect the pink/black directly to the thinner starter wire without interrupting it.) 2B: The accessory wire in that car powers the radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighter, and other non-essentials. If it were my car, I'd prefer to keep the radio off during remote start, so you don't disturb the neighbors, and so you don't lose song on the CD your were listening to when you parked. Just my opinion...go ahead and hook it up if you prefer. But anyway, the HVAC system on Toyotas is powered by one of the two ignition wires. 3. Just like the others said, ignore the factory keyless entry and leave it alone; it won't hurt anything. I've seen some people like to remove the batteries from the OEM remote so you can't trigger the aftermarket alarm by accident. If it were my car, I'd store the OEM remote keys until resale time, and just use the valet key, or get some nice non-transponder, OEM keys with logo made at the Toyota dealer. 4. You were asking about that auto-relock feature from Toyota. The Viper won't do that by default, but it is in the menu as a programming option. Up to you. 5. You said you'd prefer to unlock all five doors at the same time, instead of driver's priority, right? The quickest and easiest way will be to just connect the Viper's green and blue wires to the car as normal, then go and program the Viper for double-pulse unlock. Also, program the Viper's doorlock pulses for 0.4 seconds instead of 0.8; it'll open the passenger doors faster this way. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could do something different: First, find the wire in the kick panel that comes from the unlock switch on the driver's door panel. Then, take the Viper's blue unlock wire, and split it with two diodes. Connect one diode to the unlock-switch wire you just found, and connect the other diode to the key-cylinder-unlock wire that's listed on the tech sheet. This will allow the Viper to unlock all five doors on a single pulse, which allows your passengers to enter the car a little more quickly. There's only one other thing I can think of I'd do if it were my personal car and I had the extra time....... Turn on the hazards and listen for the factory flasher clicking on and off. When you locate it, look for the negative hazard flasher there. If you connect your GREEN/ black disarm and GREEN / WHITE rearm wires to the hazards, you'll get flashes when you lock and unlock, similar to (but not exactly like) the factory setup. It'll also flash at remote start startup and shutdown. If you're not going to be using the Viper's horn or dome supervision output, you could take advantage of either of those to flash the hazards if the alarm is triggered....... If using domelight supervision wire: Connect to hazards; program Viper for "ignition controlled domelight off" If using horn wire: Connect to hazards; program for your choice of horn-honk with lock/unlock on or off. (Note: you could program it for horn honk on with locks, then DON'T connect your arm/disarm wires......now you'll have hazard flash on lock, unlock, alarm trigger, but NOT with remote start.)