viper 5902 in a 2007 rav4

First of all, you guys are great and this forum is great. I really appreciate all the help you guys are all offering. Special thanks to Chris for all the extra suggestions aside from the remote start that I haven’t even touched on yet; I’ll be using a lot of those suggestions. I realize that must have taken quite a bit of your time. Thank you.

Chris Luongo wrote: 2 Your ignition wiring above looks MOSTLY right. The only two things I see are: 2A: As Mike said, how about the second starter wire? If I'm correct about the Viper, you should be able to connect the pink/black flex wire to it, and then go into programming and program it to act as a starter output.

   Both Chris and Mike have suggested that I need to power both the starter 1 (white) and starter 2 (yellow) wires for remote start which makes sense.    I've put the starter kill relay in line with the white starter wire and I'm assuming that same relay not only kills the starter when necessary but also provides power to it during remote start.    For the starter 2 wire (yellow) that also requires power for remote start, you are both suggesting that I hook up the Viper's H3/8 pink/balck wire to the yellow starter wire and reprogram H3/8 to be a starter out.    I have never reprogrammed a flex relay. The 5902 quick reference chart calls H3/8 (pink/black) "(+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay". Can this input be programmed as a starter output? If so, do I need a bitwriter? I've only done basic programming on DEI units using the remote in the past.

Chris Luongo wrote: The HVAC system on Toyotas is powered by one of the two ignition wires.

Great to know, HVAC was my main reason for hooking up the Acc out. I’ll ask my wife what she prefers on this one as it’s her car. Good to know the difference. Thanks

Chris Luongo wrote: 5. You said you'd prefer to unlock all five doors at the same time, instead of driver's priority, right? The quickest and easiest way will be to just connect the Viper's green and blue wires to the car as normal, then go and program the Viper for double-pulse unlock. Also, program the Viper's doorlock pulses for 0.4 seconds instead of 0.8; it'll open the passenger doors faster this way.    If you really wanted to get fancy, you could do something different: First, find the wire in the kick panel that comes from the unlock switch on the driver's door panel.    Then, take the Viper's blue unlock wire, and split it with two diodes. Connect one diode to the unlock-switch wire you just found, and connect the other diode to the key-cylinder-unlock wire that's listed on the tech sheet.    This will allow the Viper to unlock all five doors on a single pulse, which allows your passengers to enter the car a little more quickly.

I’d love to have all the doors open on a single pulse. Just to be sure, since the door lock/unlock outputs are 500mA they don’t need any external relays right? I’m not sure I understand why to unlock all doors at once I need a pulse going to both the unlock in the driver’s key cylinder and door switch? Is this because the cylinder unlocks the drivers door and the door unlock switch unlocks the rest of the doors? And as for locking, that’s all done with one pulse just by hooking the RAV4 light blue lock wire in the kick panel to the Viper’s green wire right?

Chris Luongo wrote: Turn on the hazards and listen for the factory flasher clicking on and off. When you locate it, look for the negative hazard flasher there.     If you connect your GREEN/ black disarm and GREEN / WHITE rearm wires to the hazards, you'll get flashes when you lock and unlock, similar to (but not exactly like) the factory setup. It'll also flash at remote start startup and shutdown.

   So H2/1 light GREEN/ black (OEM alarm disarm output) would just pulse the hazards to flash on disarm and H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (OEM alarm arm output) would do the same upon arming, correct?    Isn’t there a parking light output from H1/11 that does this? What would the difference be? If I recall, the parking lights will flash when you arm and disarm the car using the parking light output and they stay lit when the car is remote started or in short stop mode.

Chris Luongo wrote: If you're not going to be using the Viper's horn or dome supervision output, you could take advantage of either of those to flash the hazards if the alarm is triggered.......

I will be using the dome light supervision; I just didn’t include that wiring in my post above since I just wanted to iron out what wires I needed for remote start first. Since we’re on the subject, that one is H1/9 BLACK/ white and is only a 200mA output so it will require a relay to properly ground the circuit right?

Here is the Viper 5902 installation sheet.

Kreg 357 PM'd me on this..Chris and Mike don't want to catch the Gods out but surely you mean PINK/WHITE not pink/black. The hazards, we always wire the white to the hazards in Europe (or pos to GREEN/ black and GREEN/ YELLOW) 'cause everywhere but North America uses the AMBER lights as direction indicators, not white front and red rear because they are much easier to spot, thus on late Toyotas, neg feed to the neg wire at the hazard switch. Though I do like Chris's other idea there. Dome lights: again late Toyotas, the switched neg side to the dome light has an off delay but shuts down immediately on locking, thus I go there (2 or 3 wire plug at the fusebox), also that way no dome supervision required. Any thoughts on key sense? Also on many Euro cars you can shut off the auto locking, I hate that.

Also a thought on ignition key illumination, I'm sure I looked at that ages ago, can't remember what vehicle but I'm sure it was Japanese, that illumination only worked off the driver's door also on that vehicle it stayed on after the door was closed till the ignition was engaged. After that I never tested it again.

Hello Howie, thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. A quick question or two in order to clarify if you don’t mind.

howie ll wrote: Chris and Mike don't want to catch the Gods out but surely you mean PINK/WHITE not pink/black.

Were you suggesting that I use the H2/11 pink/white wire (flex relay control output) for Starter 2 or just assuming that that is what Chris and Mike must have intended? I ask because prior to your post it was suggested to me in a PM that I use H2/13 violet (200mA starter output) to provide power to Starter 2. I am very new at this but based on the names of the two options it seems that H2/13 (200mA starter output) would be the way to go. Could you or someone please clarify for me whether the flex relay control output would be preferable over the 200mA starter output and why. Thanks,           Justin

Yes, the key cylinder unlock wire will only unlock the drivers door on the first pulse. A second pulse afterwards will unlock the rest, thus a double pulse is needed. A suggestion, connect the 2nd unlock blue wire together with the unlock blue wire, then both to the unlock cylinder wire. This way if you decide down the road you want 2 stage unlock it's already wired and wll you need to is turn off the double pulse unlock in programming.

Howie you are right. I don't do many DEI combo units and am not real familiar with the flex wiring. It seems there is only one flex relay on the unit and it is being used for the second ignition. The pink/black is actually an input for the pink/white at rest, correct(kinda silly to have)? If so, you won't need the pink/black at all and you will definately need another ralay to control the second starter wire. Howie's also right about the supervision, don't bother because the lock control will turn it on for you already.

Howie, American Toyota's light the key cylinder on all doors....

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Okay, so it seems an external relay will definitely be necessary to power Starter 2. Should I use the H2/11 pink/white wire (200mA flex relay control output) or the H2/13 violet (200mA starter output) to trigger the external relay that will provide power to Starter 2.

It's early in the morning for me but and I've never actually seen a 5*** series DEI unit. I was "promised" one to play with 2 years ago, all I know about them is what I see here! Check your install guide, but I believe all you have to do is to power up the red, RED / white and RED / black then programme it for second starter rather than second ignition. Failing that there's add relay # 2! Running the violet as one output and the green as another is a crock of s***! They are actually 87a (violet) and 30 (green) terminals of the SAME internal relay which governs starter cut and anti-grind. The comment about key switch illumination, I stand corrected! You won't need dome supervision on this vehicle or most Hondas or BMWs.

Mike M2 wrote: There should be a thin purple wire to run the external relay. It is a ground out during crank....

Thanks Mike, that's just what I was looking for.     Well guys, it looks like I’ve finally completed my wiring chart thanks to you all. I’m one of those people who research things to death so I hopefully don’t make a mistake. This should go a long way in helping with a smooth install when the alarm arrives. There are a few things that I have concerns about although I think I have it all right based on a ton of searching and all of your input. For anyone who wouldn’t mind looking over the chart to see if everything looks right, please pay special attention to the few connections I am the least sure about which are: -H1/4 Parking light flash isolation wire (pin 87 of onboard relay) – I’m fairly certain this    isn’t needed. -H1/8 Door trigger (-) input – There was talk of using the ignition key lamp but I’m not             sure that was ever verified and I’m not sure how it would work. -H1/9 Dome supervision output – Looks like a few of you have suggested that the lock           control will turn on the dome light so this isn’t needed. -H1/10 Remote start/turbo timer activation input – Again I’m fairly sure this isn’t needed. -H2/13 200mA starter output – This one took a bit of discussion with you all to figure out      and it is what I think we have settled on to power Starter 2 I hope this image is large enough to see easily.