viper 5902 in a 2007 rav4

Man, I wish I could edit so I could replace the last image. I think I've found a way to make the chart a little bit larger. Hopefully this is easier to read. If not, here it is in a link: https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb92/corrado007/car%20and%20bike%20forum%20pics/0f7fd53a.jpg

Wow, very impressive! I can't see a single error on there. Only three comments to add.... 1. Your note about the thick pink/white, I'm not 100% sure what you meant. When you go to test the wire in the car, you'll find that it has power in both the Run and Start key positions....therefore you'll want to leave the Viper programming as default, Ignition 2 output setting. I think you know this, just making sure. 2. Yes, the car's domelight will come on when the doors are unlocked. The only catch that it will NOT come on during unlock if the remote starter is running. Never had a complaint from a customer about this. But that's the way Toyotas (and most other cars) are---having the ignition on kills any factory domelight delay. If you want to simulate how this would be in real life without even beginning your install, just go out to the car with two keys and do the following test: 2A: Open a window to be safe, close all doors. 2B: Insert a key in the exterior of the driver's door and turn it back and forth to work the locks. Observe how the domelight operates. The Viper will be simply triggering the same wires you're operating by turning the key, so the end result will be the same. 2C: Take your second key, start the car and leave it running. Use the other key and put it in the door and repeat 2B. Notice that the domelight doesn't come on anymore. 3. I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger. Here's a test you can do without even taking the car apart: 3A: Roll down a window so you can't get locked out. 3B: To eliminate the domelight delay and save time, insert the ignition key and turn it on. (You can skip this step if you don't mind standing around and waiting for the domelight to time out on its own.) 3C: Walk around the car and open each of the five doors (including the rear gate) one at a time. You'll see that opening any combination of door(s) will light up the key cylinder....it's wired up exactly like the domelight. P.S. There's another option. If you look at the face of the fusebox, there's a small plug with I think maybe four wires in it; it's pretty plain to see that these wires run upward and to the left. That's the harness that goes up to the headliner; one of those wires is negative-trigger domelight. You can use that as your door trigger too if you want.

Chris Luongo wrote: Wow, very impressive! I can't see a single error on there.

Thank you Chris for looking over that entire chart. The credit goes to those of you who helped out though; I have little experience with this stuff so I couldn't have done it without you guys.

Chris Luongo wrote: Your note about the thick pink/white, I'm not 100% sure what you meant. When you go to test the wire in the car, you'll find that it has power in both the Run and Start key positions....therefore you'll want to leave the Viper programming as default, Ignition 2 output setting. I think you know this, just making sure.

Yeah, I know that now but thanks for checking. That was a note that I wrote early on to remind me it's a flex relay. I should probably take that out since it's going to stay IGN 2.

Chris Luongo wrote: Yes, the car's domelight will come on when the doors are unlocked. The only catch that it will NOT come on during unlock if the remote starter is running. Never had a complaint from a customer about this. But that's the way Toyotas (and most other cars) are---having the ignition on kills any factory domelight delay.

Glad you pointed that out, I may have to toss in another relay to hook up the dome supervision after all then. Being that it's my wife's car, she may want to be able to see in the car if it's dark out and she remote started it. I'll have to ask her.

Chris Luongo wrote: I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger?

Actually Corrado, the main lessen here is what Chris wrote in his last post about checking. Those tests Chris was mentioning are the sort of things us pros do without thinking. Or should. Half your questions would have vanished if you would have done some physical tests on the vehicle. Ref the dome light. !) Use an aux output to the dome light trigger wire (that's the one Chris mentioned in his last post and I mentioned in an earlier post, although neither one of us can remember how many wires, between 2 and 4). Or I believe there's a spare status output wire (GWR), in line diode, 1N4004, band towards alarm, feed to a relay, 85, constant live fused at 3 amps to 86, ground to 87 and that domelight wire to 30. That will get round your domelight question.

Excellent prep and  write up!   The install should go very well.  In the Notes space, at the end of the "Tach" row, add the comment "Change Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4".

Just don't give the wife too many options / choices.  If she finds out you have some unused Aux Outputs she'll want the rear defroster, the window roll-ups, window venting...... 

Soldering is fun!

Kreg that was quite hilarious, made me thankful for being divorced then I realised how many freebie jobs I'd done on girl friends cars since! The silliest was a Maxima in the mid 90s with power seats when the ex and the girlfriend both 5'4" and me 6'+, I had to use an aux to roll the chair back after either had driven it!

On a more serious note, for general interest it seems that tach when it's on the OBD (aka data connector) is ALWAYS pin 9. That is over to one side (OBDs are all 18 pin.) This applies to Toyotas and post 2001 BMWs as far as I'm aware. Is there a readily accessible chart showing ALL processor pin outs for processors and fuse boxes? It would make our jobs so simple.

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Chris Luongo wrote: I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger? [/QUOTE]

Of the two, one will be 12volts always and one will be 12volts/light off-ground/light on.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

I’m sorry for writing a novel here...

howie ll wrote: Actually Corrado, the main lessen here is what Chris wrote in his last post about checking. Those tests Chris was mentioning are the sort of things us pros do without thinking. Or should. Half your questions would have vanished if you would have done some physical tests on the vehicle.

You’re absolutely right Howie, I suppose it’s my very limited experience with this stuff that prevented me from thinking of these tests though. What’s second nature to some of you, unfortunately doesn’t always present itself as obvious to me yet. Thankfully you guys are willing to teach me.

howie ll wrote: Ref the dome light. !) Use an aux output to the dome light trigger wire (that's the one Chris mentioned in his last post and I mentioned in an earlier post, although neither one of us can remember how many wires, between 2 and 4).

I’m afraid I’m a little lost on this one. I assume this is in reference to my wanting a dome light upon unlocking even while the car is remote started but I don’t understand how an aux output would achieve this. I suppose it must be a bit over my head.

howie ll wrote: Or I believe there's a spare status output wire (GWR), in line diode, 1N4004, band towards alarm, feed to a relay, 85, constant live fused at 3 amps to 86, ground to 87 and that domelight wire to 30. That will get round your domelight question.

And Howie, I’m not at all trying to be argumentative but rather trying to understand these concepts so bear with me here. It seems to me that if I use H2/10 Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire the dome light would remain on the entire time any time the vehicle is running on remote start and anytime the vehicle is left in short stop/pit stop mode. I think this because I assume that this status wire would provide a constant ground signal any time the car is running without the key as this output can be used to activate a bypass module or power the key sense wire. Perhaps you’re referring to a different output? Why would I not just use the H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200mA Dome light supervision output with a relay in the same way you suggested above in your quote? Or is this the output you were referring to? Does this output provide a timed, latched signal to the dome light relay upon disarming even when the car is remote started and running? That's what I would be looking for I think.

kreg357 wrote: Excellent prep and write up!   The install should go very well. In the Notes space, at the end of the "Tach" row, add the comment "Change Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4". Just don't give the wife too many options / choices. If she finds out you have some unused Aux Outputs she'll want the rear defroster, the window roll-ups, window venting......

Hey Kreg, I’m really glad you pointed out the need to reprogram the unit to tachometer from its default virtual tach; I could just see myself trying to figure out why it has such a hard time remote starting if at all. I’ve just now added that into the notes. Thanks. And as for the rear defogger, thankfully it hardly ever gets cold enough here to really need it but I hear you buddy; I’ll keep the fact that there are unused Aux outputs to my self.

Mike M2 wrote: Chris Luongo wrote: I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger. corrado007 wrote: It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger? Mike M2 wrote: Of the two, one will be 12volts always and one will be 12volts/light off-ground/light on.

So would I just use the (+) door trigger input to the one that’s always 12V when the key cylinder light is on? Or does that side see 12V constant and I need to then use the (-) door trigger and somehow use the ground/light on signal while isolating the 12V light/off from the (-) door trigger wire to the 5902 module?

You use the - green trigger on this car, you are looking either at the fuse box plug (my favourite) or the ign switch illumination for a wire that sits on ground when the door is open and goes to open circuit when the door is closed and the dome light shuts off. Yes use domelight supervision if the dome light situation worries you.