new compustar one way

I'm working on a 2000 Durango trying to install a Compustar 1WAM-S remote starter. I'm using this installation guide along with the wiring chart from the12volt wiring section. 

http://nustart.ca/support/NUS-Install.pdf

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/711.html

and I've verified the following:

CN1 Pin 1 - RED - (+) 12V Constant - Verified +12VDC always  (RED from ignition)

CN1 Pin 2 - GREEN / WHITE - (+) Output to Parking Lamp - Verified 0V normal, 11.6VDC when headlight switch to 1st position  (BLACK / YELLOW from headlight switch)

CN1 Pin 3 - RED / White - (+) 12V Constant (Accessory) - Verified 12VDC always (Pink/Black from ignition)

CN1 Pin 4 - White - (+) Output to Accessory - Verified 0V normally, 11.6VDC when key is turned to Acc. position. (BLACK/ White from ignition)

CN1 Pin5 - Blue - Output selectable by jumper - Verified 0V normally, 11.6 VDC when key is turned to Acc. position (BLACK/ Orange from ignition)

CN1 Pin 6 - Yellow - Output to Starter - Verified there is no voltage normal or when remote start is activated ????? (Yellow from ignition)

CN1 Pin 7 - GREEN/ Red - Output to Ignition - Verified there is no voltage normal or when remote starter is activated (Blue from ignition)

CN1 Pin 8 - Black - (*) Ground - Verified 2.1 ohms to chassis gound (direct to chassis ground)

CN2 has no connections

CN3 Pin2 - Grey/Black - (-) Hood Pin Input - Verified 1.9 ohms to gound  (direct to chassis ground)

CN3 Pin3 - Lt Blue/White - (-) Brake Input - Verified 0V normal, 11.6 VDC when brake pedal depressed. (WHITE/ Tan from brake switch)

CN3 Pin 9 - Yellow/Black - (*) Tach Input - Verified approx. 7.5 VAC when truck is running (Grey from Coil under hood)

CN4 No Connections.

The truck starts and runs with the key, but I get no responce form the remote starter.  Also nothing happens when I push the button for "Tach Learn".  I don't need the remote to arm the factory alram or to fire the door locks.  We will use the factory remote for these functions.  I haven't connected anything for Arm/Disarm or Lock/Unlock but it looks like I might still have to.  Can I get by with one or the other or do I need both signal groups to enable the remote start?

Also I read somewhere the 2000 Durango has a 1 wire door lock system so a couple of resitors are required?  I believe I need to take the one wire (GREEN/ Oramge) and connect 2 resistors to it (647 ohm and 1562 ohm).  From there I would run a wire from the correct resistor to the corresponding Lock/Ulock signal on the remote start.  Does that sound right or do I need to read more?

Thanks

Did you cut the Auto/Manual jumper to set CM4200 for automatic transmission? ( Assuming the truck is an auto.)

Did you set the JM1 to ACC2?

Did you set Dip Sw 1 to ON and Dip Sw 2 to Off?

Also it appears that there is an Ignition 2 wire, GREEN/ Red thin gauge, at the ignition switch that you did not list / power.  If you are going to power both ignitions and both accessories, you will need an extra relay ad inline fuse.

Soldering is fun!

I did not cut the jumper and it is an automatic, there's the first mistake.  I left the jumper in the factory position which is 2nd Ignition, looks like that will need to be changed. DIP switch 1 is ON and 2 is OFF.

I'm not sure where the ignition 2 goes to on the CM4200?  I only want the remote start function, not any other features, should I even use the 2nd ignition?

Thanks for your help, I will try these changes tomorrow afternoon. 

Here is a link to Bulldog Security : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp  Look up your truck and compare their listing.  There are some differences.

Here is a link to AudioVox for their wire guide :  http://techservices.audiovox.com/Login.aspx  Sign-up is free. 

Due to the wire listing differences, I would recommend checking and verifing all ignition wires with a Digital Multi Meter.  Looks like 2 Ignition and possibly 2 Accessory wires on the truck.  You definitely want to power both Ignition circuits.  While you should also power both accessory circuits, it is possible one of them only supplies the radio and other non-crutial items. and could be left out.

Soldering is fun!

This is great information, I appreciate the help.

I'm still a little confused on the 2 Accessories and 2 Ignitions.  It looks like my CM4200 module supports 1 of each signal and an additional "Selectable" by jumper position. Which means I can't wire in 2 Ignitions AND 2 Asscessories?   The Bulldog link above shows connections to both (Accessory-2 and Ignition-2).  Do I choose which signal set use.  I have the jumper set to the factory position of 2nd Ignition, but I don't have the small ga GREEN/ Red going to it (instead I have the large ga BLACK/ Orange which is 2nd Accessory).  Should I change the CN1 Pin5 to the snmall ga GREEN/ Red and leave the JM1 at the 2nd Ignition position?  This leaves noithing for 2nd Accessory.

I have a couple corrections I need to make later today and will report back my findings.

I would use the CM4200 set at IGN2 and power both ignition wires.  If you can purchase a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and an inline fuse holder with 20 Amp fuse, you can add a ACC2 circuit.  As mentioned above, it is possible that one of the accessory circuits runs the heat & A/C and the other accessory circuit just runs the radio and other none essential items.  We can give you the wiring for the extra relay for ACC2 if needed.

Soldering is fun!

did you program the remotes to the brain?  No response at all is only gonna be some basic things... no power, totally bad ground, bad antenna or you didnt program the remotes to the unit.... 

compucents wrote: CN3 Pin2 - Grey/Black - (-) Hood Pin Input - Verified 1.9 ohms to gound  (direct to chassis ground)

If the grey/black wire shows ground all the time, it will never remote start. It should only show ground when the hood is open.

with most compustar units you must program the remotes. Also the tach may not learn if it is in alternator mode which is controled by the dip switches. You also may be able to program tachless mode with the option programer, depending on the software version of the unit. On this year Durango there may be a front and rear heater. Usualy the third row seating models have the 2nd heater. If there is two heaters you will need bothe acc wires. Also the 2nd ing is very important. The truck will remote start with out it but will set codes and create problems. Its a thin wire your best bet is to trace it right up to the ing cylender. Its RED / grn. Add an extra relay and power it from your ing output from the rs and activate it with the gwr wire should be black wire.

JWorm is correct about the hood pin input. I'm getting an error code 6 which is "Hood Open".  Can i leave this line floating or does it need to be connected to a fused 12V signal line?

Also I checked out the Mitchell wiring diagrams for my vehicle and found the BLACK/ Orange wire from Ignition powers the AC and blower motor circuits while the BLACK/ White powers the radio and dash lights. Looks like I don't need the Accessory 2 circuit powered up.  Hopefully that saves me the relay modifivcations.

I wired up the CM4200 for Accessory 1 with the B;ack/Orange and the selectable output for the small ga GREEN/ Red from ignition. JMP1 is set to 2nd Ignition and the wire jumper is cut for Auto transmission.  The remote programming worked and the Tach learn worked OK.  All I need now is the correct Hood Pin connection and we'll see if it cranks the starter.

Thanks .....  Jeff