g35 2005 viper 5301 no cold start

DCman41 and KPierson first let me say thanks so much for your help and patience. I do believe this is still related to the lock unlock feature. Even though I now have a relay hooked up (negative trigger) to the "keysense". I noticed I heard a click of the of the relay just after the last remote start. My new theory is that the negative signal to the relay powering the keysense is sometimes slow. By the way I"m Using the virtual tach for the momentG-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

Ok I isolated the problem finally. The bad news is this is a "keysense" issue.   Because the car starts just fine when unlocked first. So since I have a relay wired up to the neagtive triger on the viper what is the problem? 1.) Odds are probably slim its the viper causing the issue with a slow negative output 2.) I have the relay powered from the same wire that powers the 2nd starter (this source wire goes straight to the battery w/fuse) Theory: When car is cold and en gauges the second starter wire, this causes a voltage drop to the relay. This would explain whey the relay shows that its outputing after the car starts but apparently not while "cold starting" Anyone agree disagree before I try powering the relay from an alternate power source? G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

Did you wire the relay according to the first diagram on this page? https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp Changing the power source will not fix the issue. Did you use the second status output wire on the brain? If you used the same status output that you used for the bypass, chances are you are getting feedback. Unless you diode isolated..

Yes I followed the diagram on the page you posted for the negative trigger relay. I did not use same status output as the one going to the bypass. As for the output on the brain, I used the aux harness #5 Blue -200ma "STATUS OUTPUT". The install manual states this is often used for the keysense. If the power source will not fix the relay powering the keysense, then why is it the car will power the keysense if the car is warm and not using the second start wire input (the second start wire input being where the relay is currently powered from). G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

If you used the solid blue color on the 5 pin harness for -status output for the keysense, then what wire did you use to connect the bypass to for the status output ? There is an additional blue/white wire on the alternate 5 pin harness that has the following wires, BLACK/ white(neutral safety), violet white(tach), brown(brake shutdown) gray (hoodpin), and blue/white (2nd remote status output).

I do not have a "status output" going from the Viper to the Bypass. The only wire between the Viper and bypass is (with the respect to the bypass) "Ground output when running" "Arm" "disarm" "Trunk" "-door stats" I can put this into a chart as well. Concur on the wiring harness you mentioned. The 2nd remote status outputs is currently not in use. You may be on to something here.............. I have the Viper H1/12 orange "-ground when armed output" connected to the bypass "ground output when running" I never felt confident on this connection but at the time it seemed to make sense (new guy perspective of course). Look forward to any advice......I"m thinking you will recommend I connect the 2nd status output to the bypasses "ground output when running".G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

Yes Yes, I think I made a very stupid mistake. I'll just tested hooking up the status output from the viper to the by pass "ground output when running" and so far so good. G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

Ok All is well and thanks again for your patience, I know it was a rookie mistake. I'm so glad this is all working so well now!! Could not have done it without all the support. The idatalink door status does work and I just tested it to confirm. Although when I set the viper to unlock the doors with ignition nothing happens. I know the door status must be received by the viper for this to work and it does receive the negative door status. Any thoughts???G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI

I have the Viper H1/12 orange "-ground when armed output" connected to the bypass "ground output when running" That right there my friend is your problem. Get rid of the orange wire you do not need it. You need to connect the "ground output when running" also known as -status output from your bypass to the blue -status output on the viper brain

You are absolutley correct. I re wired last night just as you said and have not had a problem since. Although I wish the viper new when my car was locked. Right now if the car is locked and I remote start Viper unlocks the doors. So when I get out of the car with the doors unlocked viper still thinks the car is locked. Even if I hit the lock button nothing happens because Viper thinks the car is locked. Of course if I hit the unlock first then lock it will lock the doors. I do have the door trigger ground hooked up to the viper and tested that the signal is there. Any suggestions?G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI