the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

g35 2005 viper 5301 no cold start


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
dcman41 
Copper - Posts: 209
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 7:05 PM / IP Logged  
cut the wire that you wired to the keysense wire, I dont believe it is needed anymore since the ground when armed wire was causing the no start condition. After cutting the wire going to the keysense from the relay, try to arm/disarm the car. Just something to try.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  
For the Lock and Unlock you should run the wires in to the doors, this will allow remote window control (like the factory remote had, plus you can do remote window up). The data interface 'may' not let you lock the doors when the ignition is on. Also, door status and door locks are two completely, unrelated parts of the alarm.
I don't quite follow you about the door locking issues - are you saying that when you remote start the car the doors unlock and stay unlocked? If so, you should be able to use the 2nd starter output of the remote start to relock the doors. Just make sure to isolate it so that it doesn't lock the doors when you crank with the key!
Kevin Pierson
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 9:28 PM / IP Logged  
BLUF: The first thing the car does when remote starting is unlock the doors. If I could prevent this the problem would be solved. Below is the current scenario.
1. Car parked, locked and Viper Blue light is flashing
2. I push remote start
3. car unlocks
4. Car starts (Blue light still blinking)
5. Doors remain unlocked
6. I get in car drive (blue light stops) then exit the vehicle (Blue light returns to blinking)
7. Exit car Push lock.......confirmation chip sounded, doors do NOT lock because Viper thinks the car is locked already (Blue light blinking)
Yes, I need to run the wires directly to the doors, I do miss the window down function. Although I have movers coming in two days so I'll have to put that on hold for a bit.
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  
That doesn't set the alarm off???? You should need to disarm it before you get in and drive off. Otherwise I would think it would set the alarm off.
The doors unlock because you are disarming the OEM alarm before starting. To my knowledge there is no way on the G to disarm without unlocking. Your best option would be to relock using the starter output as mentioned above. You could also try hooking up the factory rearm output, but I don't believe that will rearm until after the remote start shuts down.
Speaking of the remote start shutting down have you connected the rearm output to the door pin to deal with the RAP issue that keeps the headlights on after you remote start? I know this was a problem on the 03/04s and I think it was still a problem in '05. Basically, once remote started if the headlights come on in auto they will stay on until a door is open. If you shut the remote start off, or it times out and a door is never open the headlights will quickly kill the battery.
Kevin Pierson
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  
Once again, your knowledge continues to impress. I just ran into the headlight issue tonight. Had you not mentioned it I probably would have found myself in trouble.
As for the alarm issue, this model Viper is key-less entry and remote start only (no alarm or siren).
Yeah, I figured the doors unlocked because of the disarming action.
I'll have to hook up the re-locking via the second starter negative output. When you say "isolate".......do you mean isolate with a diode?
As for "re-arm" I have nothing by that description on my install manual or documentation that came with the Viper. I do have "Arm" & "Disarm". Is this "re-arm" function called by another name??
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 10:41 PM / IP Logged  
One additional possibley key detail.
This being my first security install, I did not hook up the "lock or unlock wire"
I do have the "arm/disarm" wires hooked up and thought this would be sufficient since "are/disarm" locks and unlocks the doors as well.
What I'm finding out is that often when pushing lock it does not always "disarm" I see menu settings to include "disarm with unlocking" but no menu settings to include "arm with locking".
Conclusion:
I need to hook up my lock and unlock wires.
Does this sound correct???
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 12, 2010 at 7:39 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, diodes would work to isolate the two signals. I believe you are using the flex output for the 2nd start, correct? If so, you should probably use a relays to isolate as the output is high current and you would need a very large diode.
You could set it up like this:
Second Starter Output:
High current 2nd starter output: Pin 86
Ground: Pin 85
High current source: Pin 30
2nd Starter Output: Pin 87
Relock Output:
High current 2nd starter output: Pin 86
Ground: Pin 85
Ground: Pin 30
Relock output: Pin 87
I'm not sure if the rearm and arm are the same, you would have to check the documentation to see how the arm wire works.
When pushing the "LOCK" button it should "arm", not "disarm".
Kevin Pierson
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 12, 2010 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the write up.
Keep in mind I still have the Aux harness available. This Aux harness is all negative outputs.   I have not used any of these wires yet. So I"m thinking I can use the aux harness instead of installing a relay.
Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin
These signals are provided to drive additional optional relays.
1
PINK/WHITE
(-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
This wire is programmed as (-) 2nd ignition output from factory and can be programmed (to drive a relay) as a (-) starter or an accessory output. (See Feature programming Menu 3, feature 8.)
2
ORANGE
(-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
This wire works like the main accessory wire and can be used (with a relay) to drive any additional accessory circuits in the vehicle.
3
VIOLET
(-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
This wire works like the starter wire and can be used (with a relay) to drive any additional starter circuits in the vehicle.
4
PINK
(-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
This wire works like the ignition 1 wire and can be used (with a relay) to drive any additional ignition circuits in the vehicle.
Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote start auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If connecting these wires directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent feedback from the vehicle.
5
BLUE
(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
This wire supplies an output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. It can be used to activate a bypass module or power the key sense wire in most vehicles to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking.
Note: Check vehicle information to verify if a bypass module is needed or if the key sense wire is needed.
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 18, 2010 at 1:29 PM / IP Logged  
dcman41, you are correct, I cut the keysense wire and it was no longer needed now that everything is wired correctly.
Thanks again
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
hilock 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2010
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 18, 2010 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:
That doesn't set the alarm off???? You should need to disarm it before you get in and drive off. Otherwise I would think it would set the alarm off.
The doors unlock because you are disarming the OEM alarm before starting. To my knowledge there is no way on the G to disarm without unlocking. Your best option would be to relock using the starter output as mentioned above. You could also try hooking up the factory rearm output, but I don't believe that will rearm until after the remote start shuts down.
Speaking of the remote start shutting down have you connected the rearm output to the door pin to deal with the RAP issue that keeps the headlights on after you remote start? I know this was a problem on the 03/04s and I think it was still a problem in '05. Basically, once remote started if the headlights come on in auto they will stay on until a door is open. If you shut the remote start off, or it times out and a door is never open the headlights will quickly kill the battery.
G-35 & FJ Cruiser Remote Start Viper 5301 & Pyton 4203--Alpine touchscreen A/V system w/Camera, Sat radio, SWI
Page of 5

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, May 27, 2022 • Copyright © 1999-2022 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer