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2006 honda ridgeline remote start


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stm144 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2010
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 20, 2011 at 4:01 PM / IP Logged  
All I meant was that maybe the people who have responded and stated that all they use is w2w because they found out that d2d previously gave them headaches haven't tried to wire one up d2d for a while.
I understand that alot/most of you guys are professionals and do tons of work. That being said I know how I do things and if something doesn't work the first time chances are I will stay with the method that works. Sorry if I offended anyone.
Since it may be easier to just w2w it on the bench could someone please fill me in on the which wires from the avital need to be hooked up to the idatalink and which wires they need to go to. I think I have a basic idea on this just don't want to mess it up.
idatalink wire connects to RS Wire
Blue/White-----------------???
Black----------------------Chassis Ground
Red------------------------White (IGN)
GREEN/ Black----------------???
Blue/Black-----------------???
RED / White------------------???
Brown----------------------Light GREEN/ Black
Purple / YELLOW--------------GREEN / WHITE and Green
Purple Black---------------not used
White----------------------not used
BLACK/ White----------------???
Green----------------------???
PURPLE / White---------------Violet/White
Yellow (Hood)--------------Gray
Thank you.
pimpincavy 
Silver - Posts: 880
Silver spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2011 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged  
I have on occasion had problems with the D2D on the idatalink modules. On a few vehicles the locks would randomly lock and unlock while the customer was driving the vehicle. Did it W2W and the cars never came back. This was when using a Crimestopper remote start.
stm144 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2010
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
Can someone take a quick look at my wiring for wire to wire between avital 5303 and idatalink ads-dlsl-ha and give me some input.
The images for the diagram are with my first post. Thanks!!!
This is my thinking
idatalink wire connects to RS Wire
Blue/White-----------------???
Black----------------------Chassis Ground
Red------------------------White (IGN)
GREEN/ Black----------------???
Blue/Black-----------------???
RED / White------------------???
Brown----------------------Light GREEN/ Black
Purple / YELLOW--------------GREEN / WHITE and Green
Purple Black---------------not used
White----------------------not used
BLACK/ White----------------???
Green----------------------???
PURPLE / White---------------Violet/White
Yellow (Hood)--------------Gray
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged  

idatalink wire connects to RS Wire

Blue/White-----------------Remote Start Harness   Blue (-) 200mA Status Output
Black------------------------Chassis Ground
Red--------------------------White (+12v constant) @ ignition harness
GREEN/ Black----------------Door Lock Harness - Green 
Blue/Black------------------Door Lock Harness - Blue
RED / White------------------Not Used on Ridgeline - iDatalink bypass does not support trunk release
Brown-----------------------H2  Light GREEN/ Black
Purple / YELLOW--------------not used   Sliding door
Purple Black---------------not used   sliding door
White------------------------not used
BLACK/ White----------------Starter Wire BLACK/ White @ ignition harness
Green-----------------------H1/  Green
PURPLE / White---------------H3 Violet/White
Yellow (Hood)--------------H3 Gray    Verify vehicle has factory hood switch and vehicle shuts down when hood is raised during remote start.

Soldering is fun!
stm144 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2010
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged  
thanks kreg...
with this setup i do not need to make any additional connection hardwired into the car other than the 6 heavy gauge and 4 bypass wires correct? I'm just trying to make sure I am not missing something. Things like dome light, parking light, that is still controlled by the idatalink?
Thanks again
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 11:55 AM / IP Logged  

There are some connections necessary from the Viper to the Ridgeline besides the remote starter ground, power wires, one IGN, one Starter and two ACCs'.  The iDatalink module does not control the Parking Lights. 

H1/ White Parking Lights   Set to (-) Polarity and connect to Blue(-) wire at Headlight Switch - Green 6 Pin Plug

H3/ Brown Brake Input to Light Blue(+) wire at brake pedal switch.

H3/ BLACK/ White Neutral Safety connection to GREEN/ ORANGE  (-)      AT SWITCH AT BASE OF PARKING BRAKE LEVER.

Dome lights should not be necessary if the lights come on with a factory remote unlock command.

Horn is not necessary if you use the siren.

Soldering is fun!
stm144 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2010
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 12:06 PM / IP Logged  
thanks again kreg,
you've been a great help! my brother and I are going to be installing this tonight and I am hoping that I have all the info that I need. I've done plenty of radio installs and other 12v accessories but never a remote start so this should be fun.
Hopefully this thread will be of some help to people in the future and hopefully I won't have to come back here with problems!!!
If you have any final word of wisdom please feel free to share them with me.
Thanks again!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 1:01 PM / IP Logged  

Some more thoughts.  Go W2W between the Avital and bypass.  The Avital uses DBI D2D protocol and I am not sure if a Solo series bypass from iDatalink has that protocol or just the standard iDatalink RS232 protocol.

Follow the iDatalink ADS DLSL HA guide for Type 1 install.  Page 3 has the wire colors listed and should be very accurate.  Page 4 has diagrams of the vehicles' connectors.

I am not familial with the Avital units but if it is similar to the Viper models, you will need to do some programming.  Going by the Avital 5303 Install Guide in the Downloads section...

Menu 3, Item 1, Option 4 for Tach mode.
Menu 3, Item 6, Option 2 for Pink/White = ACC2
Menu 3, Item 3, Option 2 ( IMHO, I don't like the Parking Lights flashing during remote start run time.)

Page 32 of the 5303 Install guide has the Tach Learn procedure.  This must be done before you can have a successful remote start.

Also, as mentioned above, the Ridgeline has two Accessory wires.  The WHITE/ Black ACC2 wire should be powered by the Pink/White wire from the Satellite Relays.  The programming change above will set that Pink/White wire correctly to ACC2.

All wires should be verified with a Digital Multi Meter.  As Twelvoltz pointed out, all connections should be soldered and well insulated with quality electric tape ( Scotch Super 33+ ).

Soldering is fun!
stm144 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2010
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 1:29 PM / IP Logged  
you have the light blue wire at brake pedal switch to connect to the brown (H3) for brake shutdown input.
I have in my notes that should be WHITE/ black for my 2006 Honda Ridgeline.
Can you double check that for me.
Thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 21, 2011 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  

You could be right on the Brake (+) wire.  Bulldog Securities has it as Light Blue (+) but Audiovox and DirectWire have it as WHITE/ Black.  This just reinforces the advice to verify all wires with a DMM.  The wire guide lists are only guides...( and the DMM never lies )

Another place to get the { WHITE/ Black } Brake (+) wire is at the fuse box, White 45 Pin Plug, Pin 26.  { According to DEI }

Soldering is fun!
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