the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

viper 5901, 2004 ford ranger


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 6:29 AM / IP Logged  

The H2/18 Neutral Safety should be connected to the  Parking Brake  RED / YELLOW  (-)  @ vehicle Parking Brake Switch.  

H3/9 Tach should be connected to  Tachometer  TAN/WHITE  (-)  AT IGNITION COIL.
H3/10 (-) Status Output goes to the bypass module Ground When Running input.
What brand / model of bypass module are you using?

The others H2/2,3,4,5,6,11,12,13,14,16 are not mandatory or are optional.

While I have never done a manual trans Ranger, if the info above is correct, here is how to bypass the clutch switch:

Buy a 30/40 A SPDT relay with harness and a 20 A inline fuse.  Wire as follows:
H2/13 (-) Starter to Relay Pin 85.
+12v constant to Relay Pins 86 and 87 thru inline fuse.
Relay Pin 30 to Pink wire at clutch pedal switch.
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate.
     

Soldering is fun!
dragonpntr 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 10:36 AM / IP Logged  

Usually on ford rangers you can hook the purple starter wire to the pink at the clutch pedal and it will crank the truck. I totally spaced that this was a stick sorry. But I agree with kreg357 on the wiring and it would work with the relay also if you don't want to move your starter wires.

chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 12:05 PM / IP Logged  
Ok thanks. You guys are the best!! As of right now i haven't gotten a bypass unit. Any suggestions?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  
Best bang for the buck is DEI 1100F bypass module.  Available at "online auction" for about $12. 
Soldering is fun!
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 1:36 PM / IP Logged  
Ok so just to clear this up. I can hook up H3/4 to the pink clutch wire directly? no relays or anything? What is the difference between using the relay and not using it other that just more work to do?
Also, with the bypass unit. Do i have to have firmware "learning" software to make it "learn" my anti theft system loaded on to it or will it work right out of the box?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a link to the DEI 1100F guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=696   It comes ready to go right out of the box.  You will need two working, non-clone, keys to program it to your truck.

Soldering is fun!
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  
Ok cool! Thanks you guys. Anyone have an answer to the question about the clutch in my previous post? Ok so im done with harness 2 and 3 and im about half way through harness 1
So Heres what i have so far.
H1/1: NA (no trunk)
H1/2: STRAIGHT TO BATTERY
H1/3: SIREN
H1/4: NEED HELP
H1/5: CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6: I HAVE A (-) DOOR SYSTEM SO?? NOT NEEDED?
H1/7: NA?? HELP PLEASE
H1/8: ON THIS ONE SINCE I HAVE TWO DOORS I JUST SPLIT THE WIRE INTO 2 AND CONNECTED ONE TO THE DRIVER SIDE WIRE AND THE OTHER TO THE PASSENGER SIDE. IS THAT OK?
H1/9: NEED HELP
H1/10: NEED HELP
H1/11: TO PARKING LIGHTS WIRE
H1/12: NEED HELP
So can you guys just double check this and help me with the ones i need help with?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT                  No trunk
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT                                                     +12v constant
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT                                                           Siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE                       Not used
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND                                                        Chassis Ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT                                               Not Used  Truck has (-) triggers
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT                      No trunk
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT                                               Connect to both door triggers & diode isolate with 1N4001
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT                       Not needed if dome light comes on with unlock
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO                                Not used
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT                                                 Set Jumper/Fuse accordingly (-) or (+) depending on the Parking Light wire used***
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT          Not used
Soldering is fun!
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
Ok cool. SO H1/8 What do you mean connect it to a diode? And H1/11 i just change that with that fuse inside the brain correct? Also, the question about the clutch is still up if anyone knows.
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 22, 2011 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
I just answered my own question about the diode. Other two I still need.
Page of 5

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, September 25, 2022 • Copyright © 1999-2022 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer