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viper 5901, 2004 ford ranger


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 23, 2011 at 4:35 AM / IP Logged  

2004 Ford Ranger Parking Light info:

Bulldog
 PARKING LIGHTS ( - )  WHITE/ BLACK (-)   @ SJB, Small BLACK Plug, Pin 16, See NOTE *1    
 PARKING LIGHTS ( + )  BROWN (+)            @ SJB, BROWN Plug, Pin 8, See NOTE *1    

Audiovox

 Parking Lights         BROWN  (+)               IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL  
 Low Crr. Pk Lights  WHITE/ BLACK  (-)    AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

As noted there are several places and both polarities available for the remoter starter to connect

to the Rangers Parking Lights.  Depending on which polarity you choose, you will set the Vipers
Fuse/Jumper accordingly to ensure the H1/11 White wire output is correct.  The Parking Light
Fuse/Jumper is under the access door and inside the brain.

Here is some more info on the Door Trigger diode isolation from Bulldog :

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/4698_Ranger_FORD%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION.pdf

Soldering is fun!
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
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Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 23, 2011 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged  
Ok so to clear this up a bit. I need to put a diode coming from the BCM to the trigger. between the diode and the trigger i need to put another diode and connect it to the RS wire. Correct?
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 23, 2011 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, just follow the diagram.  On Fords that have BCMs that shutdown to save power, you will get false alarms on your Viper if you don't diode isolate.  One diode prevents the Viper from seeing the BCM shutdown, the other diode allows you to connect multiple door trigger inputs into one alarm input.
Soldering is fun!
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 23, 2011 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged  
Yea I saw that. I just finished the instal! But your right, out of nowhere the alrm just starts going off saying "door open" All I have is the clutch which I still need help on if you can help me, the door triggers which I am ordering the diodes as we speak, and the bypass unit which I am also ordering right now.
chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 25, 2011 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged  
DO NOT TRY THE SHORTCUT THAT TIES THE PURPLE STARTER WIRE TO THE PINK CLUTCH WIRE!!!! Anyone who is thinking about doing this DO NOT DO IT!!! I just tried it and the truck went crazy!!. The horn was honking the lights were flashing and the key did not matter. I pulled it out of the vehicle and the car was still running and going crazy. I burnt the hell out of my clutch because I put it in gear and put the emergency brake on the stall the engine. With the key out the truck was still trying to start! This is a REALLY BAD IDEA!! So anyone reading this DO NOT DO IT!!!!
smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 29, 2011 at 7:25 AM / IP Logged  
In ANY OF THIS, did you use a Digital Multi Meter to Test and VERIFY what wires you were connecting to???  In the download section of this site, download the Viper 5701 Install guide. Starting on page 13 is a section on how to find and test for the wires you need.  Start over, but start there. Something is most likely not connect correctly.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: January 29, 2011 at 12:09 PM / IP Logged  
I KNOW FOR SURE that every wire except for the clutch wire is connected correctly. I triple checked all of my wiring before I even plugged the brain in. It was working fine until i did the clutch bypass. The alarm worked great ( just need to get some diods to isolate the doors) The next day I did the clutch bypass and that's when all hell broke out. Once again, I installed the alarm on friday and the Remote start on saturday. So the remote start is what is messed up. I checked the ground, IGN, starter wire, ACC, and 12V, they were all good. The brain is still functioning somewhat correctly, it knows when the doors open, it knows the running lights are on, The blue light on the remote receiver doesn't do anything, the remote always comes back with a "FAILED" sign. So im wondering if that is bad? I am taking the brain itself to bestbuy to have them test it to make sure that it is good before I go any farther into anything.
dragonpntr 
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Joined: January 04, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 30, 2011 at 3:50 PM / IP Logged  

Interesting I just did that bypass last week and it worked just fine I have also used it many other times on rangers. If it would not shut off it sounds like your brake wire is not working. Does the truck have a factory alarm or is it a base model with no power option? If you test the pink wire it should show power when the clutch is pushed and the car is cranked.

chaddaddy 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posted: February 01, 2011 at 10:01 PM / IP Logged  
Wow that's very odd... I don't know what went wrong...? I mean as far as the 4 yellow wires in the IGN harness, they are all just a 12V constant right? That is the only thing I was fairly skeptical about. Kreg357 said there all the same so I took his word because he was so dead on about everything else. What do you think? And no the truck did not come with a factory alarm. And I cannot be sure of what happened... the brain is still going all crazy, I checked my ground and all other wires, again, and nothing helps. I have come to the conclusion that the brain just got toasted somehow. I sent it back to Dynamic autosound where I bought it and they had no problem sending me a new one. it'll be here Friday. I am having a friend of mine come over, he used to do these alarms professionally so we'll see what he thinks. I'm not sure, any input?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 02, 2011 at 6:04 AM / IP Logged  
dragonpntr wrote:

There is 4 of them they all are constant hook up your 3 constant powers to 3 of them also your large pink/white should go to the gray / YELLOW and change it in the programing to an acc.

pink to GREEN/ purple

orange to BLACK/ green

red to 1 yellow

RED / white to 1 yellow

RED / black to 1 yellow

You won't need H 2/1

To do the immobilizer you will need a security module or if you don't mind losing a key you could make a bypass here is a link to a document.    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=610

Wasn't me.  Bulldog and Audiovox do not specify how many Yellow +12 volt constants are found at the ignition switch.  DEI says only three.  Of course everyone here supplying assistance agrees that all connections must be verified with a Digital Multi Meter.  Car manufacturers often change things in the middle of the production run without notice so the wire guides are just that, only guides.

Soldering is fun!
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