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2002 chrysler t & c remote start issue


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scuzy 
Member - Posts: 8
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Joined: March 09, 2011
Posted: March 10, 2011 at 1:40 PM / IP Logged  
Yes it's working now I figured that one out before I saw your post, I connected the 12V constant to the low amp circuit at ignition, what issues have you seen with that.
blanx218 
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Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 10, 2011 at 2:35 PM / IP Logged  
If the remote start would ever short out or pull more than its normal power it can blow the main ignition fuse leaving the car inoperable
scuzy 
Member - Posts: 8
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Joined: March 09, 2011
Posted: March 10, 2011 at 2:44 PM / IP Logged  
Ok but since I'm replacing the 20amp fuse that comes with the rs unit to match the 10amp at the ignition wire it should only short out the rs.
Do you often see a rs drawing more than that, or shorting out.
And is it possible to get a 12v from bcm instead of from under the hood.
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
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Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 10, 2011 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged  
You could do that. But theres no telling if the remote start will continue to operate with only a 10 amp fuse. Most remote starts have at least 2 20 amp fuses. There may be a +12V constant wire at the BCM that you can use. In any case that DEI gives a warning about something in their techs sheets I follow them just to be on the safe side.
scuzy 
Member - Posts: 8
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Joined: March 09, 2011
Posted: March 10, 2011 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
Ok thanks I guess if the 10amp blows, Ill know it's not enough.
ExtremeProAudio 
Member - Posts: 45
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Joined: November 28, 2003
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 11, 2011 at 1:55 PM / IP Logged  
I always hook my remote start power wires at the switch. The brain usually only draws 10mA on its own. The rest of the current required to power the ignition/acc/starter circuits is about 1A since all the wires feed relays and do not directly power any circuits on that vehicle.
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