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door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix


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ice32 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2007
Location: Australia
Posted: April 11, 2011 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
Hey,
I'm in the process of installing a viper 5902 alarm/RS into my 2007 AU EVO 9, i've got most of it working how it should accept for the door lock/unlock.
I've found wiring guides etc around the net for the 2006 evo 9 but they seemed to have changed the wiring for the 2007.
I've got the cars technical manual so if anyone would be able to help me make sense of that so i could work out how i can trigger my door locks id appreciate it.
I've tried grounding them with no luck, i tried this due to the fact when the locks activate one wire loses ground and the other wire gains it.
i did test the wires for 12v but they only showed 3.94v (can't remember if this alternated when locking/unlocking)
Below is the wiring diagram for the central locking system, i've tapped into pin 35/36 of connector c-226
Diagram
syl20rochon 
Copper - Posts: 298
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: April 11, 2011 at 9:22 PM / IP Logged  
Try this...
door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix -- posted image.
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.
ice32 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2007
Location: Australia
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 12:01 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply,
It must be different from the US to the AU Evo's (or Lancers).
But I'll take another look for those wires when i get home.
Any idea on how to trigger the locks?
I believe i have found the equivalent to those wires on my car, but pulse grounding them has no effect.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 2:46 AM / IP Logged  
All the Lancer bodies are the same, I've done UK spec Evos they are identical to Oz except you might have kilos instead of miles and ALL Mits except pre 2000 Japanese spec. Shogun/Montero/Pajero have multipoint neg. switched locking.
If it isn't on the cable loom return from the door, it will be either:
1)On a relay body behind the driver's knee pad to the right of the steering column.
2)Base of fusebox, thin wires, primary black with colours.
Window close however is another kettle of fish, data switching you have to go to each motor.
I would run with Sylvain's diagram.
Test trigger the locks with all doors closed bar the driver's, key away from ignition switch and throw over the locking catch on the driver's door lock mechanism.
ice32 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2007
Location: Australia
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 3:45 AM / IP Logged  
I may be hitting the switch too early then.
I tried an experiment on the ORANGE / pink cables and found i can lock/unlock the doors if i ground one and remove ground from the other (i cut the cable to remove it's ground)
with the lock side cut i can unlock the car with the viper (the indicators don't light up like they do with the stock unlock but i assume i can just bang the Parker wire to the hazard button and get the same effect)
i also can lock/unlock the doors with the keyless entry buttons on my key.
i was just gonna use 2 DPDT relays to remove the ground from one side while the other is grounded and vice versa.
After they are grounded it will sit back at the factory position, i'm not sure if this will work as the ground will probably leave the circuit before the actuator finish's unlocking etc
but I've never had to do this before when activating the central locking so i think I'm taping into the connection to early.
I'll look for a relay in the drivers kick panel area, seems you have done some UK evo's any tips on getting the fuse box down so i can access the rear of it?
To clarify my idea on the relays i'll attach a diagram a bit later and i'll also upload some pics of my kick panel looms.
Thanks for all the help so far
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 4:21 AM / IP Logged  
You are doing something completely wrong here, i.e. not testing thoroughly enough etc.
Never ever had any Mitsubishi lock issues, also if you diode separate via 2 x 1N54XX diodes you will operate the indicators (GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ blue? TEST).
Use a Snap-On test light to current swing the lock triggers you will find them that way.
I think you've found motor wires rather than triggers and you've failed to notice the difference which is why this isn't a DIY job.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 4:42 AM / IP Logged  
I couldn't find 07 but 06 =
Purple to yellow, Lock.
Light Green, unlock.
In driver's door loom.
08 =
Yellow/red, pin 2 lock.
Grey, pin 3 unlock.
Brown plug, driver's kick panel.door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix -- posted image.
Use one of these, doors closed, key out of ignition, driver's door left open but latch thrown over, croc clip to ground and probe the wires.
ice32 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2007
Location: Australia
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 5:23 PM / IP Logged  
Righto Thanks,
I'll grab a test light tonight and probe around.
Will any LED test light do or does it need to be that specific test light?
being ground triggered how would the test light respond? does it light up green if you have a complete ground circuit and will i need to flick the drivers door locking latch while probing?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged  
Use an incandescent bulb test light. I'd have shown an LED if I meant that.
The normal bulb version will draw the current to activate the locks.
An LED bulb will not do that. At this stage you're trying to activate the locks. you're not up to testing for them in my opinion because you don't quite know what your doing or how to go about it.
Using a DMM on that vehicle instead of a bulbed test light would be a waste of time.
ice32 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2007
Location: Australia
Posted: April 12, 2011 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged  
I assumed led because i've always been advised not to use a bulb test light in new cars due to them drawing current which can result in airbags being set off.
So if I'm going to be probing around with a bulb test light I'll probably be better off taking out my air bag fuse?
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