viper 5901 shuts antenna off

antenna is located behind driver seat in the glass, wire routed from the module through the driver side. I did looped excess wire underneath the dash. no bends.thanksAlways test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Did you mount the antenna to the defroster grid? If you did, try pulling it away from the glass and mount it away from the grid. The grid may be radiating noise that is interfering with your reception.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

No 91, he means the side window and frankly that's where I'd put it on that model, I used to mount the siren in the engine bay*, the main unit under the driver's seat in that model. *Mid engine, on the right is a large air inlet; mounted adjacent and then took the leads through the bulkhead grommet. UK cars had a factory alarm in the side panel under the glass with all the door, trunk and hood inputs, very convenient.

There is no Bitwriter setting to turn off the antenna.   Are you getting an error tone when you press the Viper remote? Some of the older Viper systems came with the keypad lock turned on so after not using the remote it will shut you out so you don't accidentally hit a button in your pocket. Press function then unlock to unlock the keypad. Does the 1-Way remote do the same thing? Could unplug the H1 harness and lay a screw driver across the terminals to reset the Viper brain and try it again.

Which harness for the screwdriver reset? I'll relocate the antenna too later.Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

disregard last post sorry.Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Installation Wiring: H1/1 – Aux trunk to Unlock relay, I use this relay to unlock doors with the remote while engine is running with key in ignition, I always keep the remote separate from the keys. H1/2 - + Constant 12v, source white wire IG Switch Harness (IGSW) H1/3 - + siren output – red siren H1/4 – N/A H1/5 – ground – Car chassis H1/6 – N/A H1/7 – Instant trigger pin – hood pin H1/8 - Door triger input – RED / white main wire set running in the driver side door sill. H1/9 – N/A H1/10- N/A H1/11- Parking light output – I used the green with + relay, driver kickpanel. H1/12- N/A H2/1 – N/A H2/2- N/A H2/3 - N/A H2/4- N/A H2/5 – pump kill relay H2/6 - - N/A H2/7- N/A H2/8 – Horn – N/C H2/9 – Tach – @ connector in engine bay passenger side H2/10 - N/A H2/11- N/A H2/12- N/A H2/13- N/A H2/13- N/A H2/14- N/A H2/15     - hood pin H2/16- N/A H2/17 - +brake shutdown – GREEN / WHITE at brake pedal connector H2/18- ground H3/1 - +Ignition – BLACK / YELLOW (IGSW) H3/2 - - N/A H3/3- +Accessory out – blue/red (IGSW) H3/4 - + starter out Car side – Red (IGSW) H3/5 - +starter in Key side – RED (IGSW) H3/6- Ignition 1 – Power 12v + H3/7- Flex Relay out – IG2 – Is a black and Red I think (IGSW), check polarity it is (+) H3/8- Flex input – power 12v+ H3/9-Accessory starter – power 12V+ H3/10 – No Connection Door lock 1     unlock out BLACK / YELLOW (-) kick panel 2     lock out black (-) kick panel Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

crossing H1 with the screwdriver will delete only entered settings, or will delete everything (including Bitwriter stuff) and set the module just as it comes from factory? I wanna make sure I dont opt myself out of been able to reprogram the module manually, since I do not have a Bitwriter. Thank you.Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

H3/8  Pink/Black should not be connected to anything. This could be feeding back into the brain. Also H3/2 RED / White should be connected to +12V constant

Find the vehicles lock relay, one of the wires going into it is connected to the driver's door, cut it and join the unit's end to ground, then you can use the normal lock/unlock wires and save aux 1. You will then be able to lock unlock with the engine running, but please follow Blanx' advice in the last post.