First Alarm, 97 Honda Civic

1997 Honda Civic DX Hatchback. This is my first attempt at an alarm installation. Going to install either the Viper 5901, Clifford 50.7x, or the Python 991. I have a good idea of where and how to run the wires thanks to this website. Just wanted to know a few things before I begin. What is the difference between Ignition 1, Ignition 2, and Accessory in my car? Don't they all do about the same thing when the key is turned? I know I'll have to tap into these wires to get things running so what type of splicers do you guys recommend? Any other pointers? Thanks!

Ignition circuits will stay at +12v during cranking, while Accessory circuits will drop to 0v during cranking.

Do yourself a favor and make this install a true learning opportunity and an install that will work properly for many years.  Buy a soldering iron/gun and use it for all of your connections.   A decent Weller dual range 100/140w gun will cost about $35.  You can do some practice on short pieces of wire from the R/S unit that won't be used for your cars install.  Another item that is necessary for the install and can be used around the house for the rest of your life is a good Digital Multi Meter.

Soldering is fun!

Electrically there is no difference between Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 - they are just two separate, isolated circuits that power parts of the vehicle required for the vehicle to run. It is imperative that these circuits remain isolated. The numbering of the ignition circuits is arbitrary - you can hook the "Ignition 1" output up to vehicles "Ignition 2" and vice versa with no negative effects.Kevin Pierson

Hey thanks a lot! But why do I have 2 ignition wires? Does it matter which one I use? I plan on tapping into these wires, then running them to a small fuse panel versus running all of the wires under the dash. I want to keep it really clean. As for splicing into the wires, should I cut a small section of the wire off, tin then solder? I'm all about doing it right the first time so your pro tips are certainly appreciated!

You will need to use them both. Your alarm should provide two isolated ignition outputs. As far as splicing in to the wires cut a small strip off, securely wrap the additional wire around the exposed copper, apply heat, and then apply solder to the wire (not the iron). Cover with a high quality electrical tape like Scotch 33+ (it is worth the $4 a roll as compared to everything else you can buy).Kevin Pierson

Here is a link to DEI's wire guide for your car.  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=2021&product=RemoteStart&make=Honda&model=Civic    They list it as having one Ignintion and two Accessory circuits.  Remember these are only guides.  All wires should be located and verified before making any connections. 

Here is link to a DEI install guide for another remote start unit :  http://www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf  While it is for anther unit, the basic information for installation and wire testing is still applicable.  Here is a link to several DEI DIY videos :  http://www.readyremote.com/InstructionalVideo.asp

Adding a separate fuse panel might be overkill.  The DEI units you listed are all fused and protected.  Locating the Viper brain in a good location, routing the wires to their destination in groups using looming & tie wraps and cutting each wire to length is usually enough. Space can be very limited in a Civic.

Additionally, Viper does not supply a warranty, manuals or tech support for those units if they are not installed by an authorized dealer.  You might find the install guide in the Downloads section.  Become very familiar with it.  You will need this info to install, configure, setup, program and test your unit.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks guys for all of your input. I have the car completely gutted at this point awaiting my electronics. The alarm brain will be well hidden and out of reach my anyone, including me and this is why I want to get it right the first time; I don't want to rip everything apart again. Those links really helped and yes, I've been studying the manual to the Python 991 very closely. I've even went as far as sketching a diagram on how and where I want to run these wires which I will post up soon.

For the fuse panel, I was thinking about removing the inline fuses to all the DEI wires, and just connecting them to the panel. I just don't like the idea of running all of those wires under the steering column. And of course, this panel would be accessible to me in a well hidden compartment.

Yeah DEI and their warranties; another point as to why I want to get this done right  . I've been doing tons of research on alarm installs and it's all starting to make sense. I'll post pictures of my installation when I'm done so I can get that good 12volt.com seal of approval. The only thing im not really understanding are relays but that's a whole other monster. There are enough diagrams for me to follow out there without having to even understand the way they work lol. Thanks again!

OK. Kevin and Kreg know only too well what I should say but for once I'll be diplomatic Suffice, if you strip out the instrument panel and binnacle, you get (just) a nice secure and stealthy place to mount the CPU. Also tach wire, doors and trunk and either lights or indicators. This vehicle has 1 starter, 1 ignition and I believe 2 ACC. Very simply if you have more than 1 ignition, the wire marked ignition 1 is the one involved in starting the car, all the others will "dump" at the start/run key position. Use only soldered joints wrap in Scotch 33+ and test using a DMM. Other tools, drill, philips No 2 screwdriver, good cutters, crimpers and strippers, 10mm spanner, those are the basics, unless you are prepared to listen to and follow what Kevin Kreg and myself tell yo, take the easy and probably in the long run cheaper way out and have it professionally installed. N.B. The units you mentioned in your first post are ALL the same product, just rebranded.

Incidentally, doesn't it need a by-pass? The UK version does.

If memory serves me, only Preludes had transponders in '97.    The Civic should start with a plain key.  That will save the cost of a bypass and make things a bit easier.Soldering is fun!