the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

First Alarm, 97 Honda Civic


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 26, 2011 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged  

howie ll wrote:
OK. Kevin and Kreg know only too well what I should say but for once I'll be diplomatic First Alarm, 97 Honda Civic - Page 2 -- posted image.
Suffice, if you strip out the instrument panel and binnacle, you get (just) a nice secure and stealthy place to mount the CPU. Also tach wire, doors and trunk and either lights or indicators.
This vehicle has 1 starter, 1 ignition and I believe 2 ACC.
Very simply if you have more than 1 ignition, the wire marked ignition 1 is the one involved in starting the car, all the others will "dump" at the start/run key position.
Use only soldered joints wrap in Scotch 33+ and test using a DMM.
Other tools, drill, philips No 2 screwdriver, good cutters, crimpers and strippers, 10mm spanner, those are the basics, unless you are prepared to listen to and follow what Kevin Kreg and myself tell yo, take the easy and probably in the long run cheaper way out and have it professionally installed.
N.B. The units you mentioned in your first post are ALL the same product, just rebranded.

Thanks for your suggestions. Never thought of placing it inside of the gauge cluster. But I need a working gauge cluster lol. I'm somewhat familiar with wiring and how to solder properly so I do have most of the tools already.

This series of alarms includes a large antenna which houses the LED and Valet button. Where should this be mounted? Do i need to access the button on it? Or would I be able to wire a button and LED seperately?

Also, the link below shows my civic having 12v constant, IG1, IG2, and Accy. You're saying it only has 1 IG and 2 Accy? Now I'm confused...

jeremytravis 
Copper - Posts: 62
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 26, 2011 at 11:29 PM / IP Logged  
After you get all the wiring done, don't forget you still have to program the unit properly. If you get an error tone when trying to activate RS, count the siren chirps, you should then be able to identify the problem by checking the error chart in the back of the install guide.
**advanced mecp certified
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 1:44 AM / IP Logged  
ER your question, the answer being I expect you to plug the gauges back afterwards First Alarm, 97 Honda Civic - Page 2 -- posted image.
It doesn't matter as long as BLACK / YELLOW is Ign. 1 you may treat Ign. 2 as an ACC.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 1:47 AM / IP Logged  
Directechs lists 1 ignition and two ACC.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 1:49 AM / IP Logged  
BEHIND The gauge cluster, fool.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 8:42 AM / IP Logged  

Haha! I thought you meant inside of the gauge cluster. I've seen the installs behind the cluster and under or around the steering column. Since my car is gutted and ripped apart currently, I have more options as to where I can place the brain of the alarm. My idea is to have it totally stealth and undetectable. The only access I will have to any component of the alarm system, without having to rip the full interior, would be fuses. This is why I was wanting to route all of the power to a seperate fuse panel because I do intend on fabricating some kind of a block off plate under the steering column where the pedals are to slow theives down if they decided they wanted to try and hot wire the car.

I have to take every security measure available to me with this car. Just a little background, It's got a new motor, new suspension, a nice stereo system, new paint, rare wheels, and it's mine! I've invested too much into this little car to not have a sufficient alarm system.

Here's the link to the wiring from this site that I didn't post earlier...

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1050.html

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 8:54 AM / IP Logged  
What they've marked as 2nd. ignition is actually a second accessory but for your purposes will be the same as second ignition(pink/white from the R/S) as long as you make the BLACK / YELLOW ignition 1. Otherwise the R/S won't work.
Hiding behind the inst. panel will give you all the stealth you need, all your wiring will come down from there and be more or less hidden any way.
On a common sense level, once they get into your car it's all over anyway so you don't need a plate underneath!
On that car your power supplies from the R/S, red, red, RED / black and RED / white on DEI products can all be wired to the white ignition lead, fuses are optional because that lead has a 50amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged  
That's awesome. My diagram that I drew up matches what you're currently suggesting so at least I know I'm going in the right path. Also, the RS harness on the alarm has an orage lead H3 which states it needs to be connected to a power source that powers the climate control system. Does this need to be connected? If so, to what? I was thinking just connecting it the yellow wire on my ignition.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
Connections pink/white to yellow (of car),
Orange to WHITE/ black (of car).
And guess what, it doesn't matter which goes to which!
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 27, 2011 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  
Now lets assume that I've connected everything properly and everything is working except for the remote starter and I'm not getting error beeps and my fuses are good. Can we then assume that this is due to the clutch switch? Will I need to bypass it or does this alarm bypass it by the neutral brake switch?
Page of 17

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Monday, April 12, 2021 • Copyright © 1999-2021 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer