troubleshooting, porsche boxster 2001s

Thanks for replies, I would appreciate some help with troubleshooting. I have installed as follows: CN1 ACC - not connected Starter - to yellow (via relay) Ignition - Black Ground - ground 12v constant - RED / white 12v parking output - grey/black [left side parking lights] CN2 Output to starter kill - Blue from starter relay Parking light output #2 - not connected yet Ebrake input -- not connected yet Foot brake input -- not connected yet 2nd ignition output -- Connected to pin 85 of relay 2 and relay 3. pin 86 and 87 of both are connected to 12v constant.    pin 30 of relay 2 - Orange (ign #2)    pin 30 of relay 3 -- BLACK / YELLOW Door trigger -- not connected yet Tach -- PURPLE / green tach wire CN4 unlock output - BROWN / red lock output - blue/black Every wire seemed to test fine. The car now starts fine (and I have cut the starter wire). Those that are not connected I just deferred until I had at least the programming and doors working. But the brain is not programming -- i have tried cycling the car on/off 5 times and then pressing my remote over and over. I don't get any response at all when i cycle the ignition key (no lights). Can I get suggestions for troubleshooting?

Just a few things to check, I am sure you already have but sometimes they need to be asked. - You are doing on/off 5 times in less than 7 seconds right? - The antenna is plugged in? - You have the proper antenna and remotes?

lol. yes to all 3. ...i'll go back and retest voltages with my dmm tomorrow. what are the minimally necessary but sufficient leads (ie, the ones I should test), if anyone knows? i'm guessng constant 12v, starter, ignitions 1-3, and antenna. anything else?

Good start at least. Well pretty much the two most important things are - 12v Constant - Ground I believe everything else would affect a certain function. Example: Doors not lock/unlocking, not starting, alarm not triggering, etc. Check for 12v Constant in the plug on the remote start. Another stupid question but both 12v constant wires are connected correct? One last thing I can think of is too check you haven't blown any fuses on the remote start.

Do you have to have the door open in order to go in to programming mode on your unit? If so, you'll need to either hook up a door pin or ground the door pin out temporarily.Kevin Pierson

its the cm6000 and it does not say that the door needs to be open. How would i tell? good idea on the fuses....

I find most brains need to see accessory to program.  Try feeding some power and see if goes in to programming mode.

I've Tested all voltages on cn1 (At the brain connector end) correctly. I tried connecting ACC (white wire on cn1) to 12v constant to power per the posted suggestion. ... No change. Of course, if the brain were recognizing the ACC on/off then this idea might not have been enough???? Any ideas? Need to figure out the next step... Stumped

I usually program the remotes to the brain on the bench.  With a CM6200, I make these connections:

CN1 Pin 5 Red x 2 -  either one to +12V

CN1 Pin 4 Black        to groundCN1 Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE  to LED test probe +  ( test probe (-) lead to ground )

CN7 or CN8 to antenna

CN4 Pin 4 Blue  Unlock to another LED test probe (-) lead  ( test probe (+) lead to +12v constant )

Using a jumper connected to CN1 Pin 3 Green, quickly touch the other end of the jumper to +12v five times in

seven seconds.  The Parking Light test LED should flash once, signaling the entrance into remote programming.  Within 5 seconds, press the Lock button on the first remote, the Parking Light test LED should flash once.  Within 5 seconds, press the Lock button on the second remote, the Parking Light test LED should flash once.  After a five second idle period the Parking Light test LED will flash once signaling the end of the remote programming session.

To test, press the Unlock button.  The Parking Light test LED should flash twice and the second test probe

on the Unlock wire should blink once.

You can use a standard +12v test light on the CN1 Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE Parking Light wire as it is a 10A circuit.

You will hear the Parking Light relay clicking each time the brain outputs that signal. A Digital Multi Metercan also be used but the output pulses are brief ( less than a second long ).

Soldering is fun!

I have tested voltages to pins 4/5, as well as the parking light on 6. I could try to simulate on the bench, but am wondering what to use as a 12v power source? Is there any way to confirm/disprove that the brain is dead?