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troubleshooting, porsche boxster 2001s


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clueless111 
Member - Posts: 20
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Joined: August 16, 2011
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 4:29 AM / IP Logged  
finally ... reservation mode!
a huge thanks to kreg375!!! ... the idea to program on the bench inspired me. Rather than remove the brain from the car I just used a jumper to connect the constant momentarily to green. I did not use the test lights because the unit was still in the car ... I did get parking light flashes (as well as clearly audible clicks).
still don't think i can get it into programming mode with the keys though???? Pretty sure my ACC (white on CN1 was not attached to 12v constant at the time. it is not connected to anything now).
had (have) an issue with the brakes ... the wiring diagram shows yellow/black negative ... it was the one wire i didn't bother testing ... turns out that it is p reading +12v at rest and 0v / continuous with ground when depressed. I'll test the other wire tomorrow or use a relay to convert? I reached reservation mode today by simply temporarily disconnecting the foot brake input.
This is what I have connected. What if anything do I need to diode, other than the parking lights?:
CN1
Parking light output (PLAN: connect single output to two diodes, connect to split R/L parking light wires)
CN2
Output to starter kill - Blue from starter relay
Ebrake input
Foot brake input
Starter to clutch bypass via relay
2nd ignition output -- to ignition #2 and #3 via two relays
Door trigger (drivers side only)
Tach
Horn
CN4
door unlock output - BROWN / red
door lock output - blue/black
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 6:00 AM / IP Logged  
Ensure the diodes used to isolate the right & left (+) Parking Light wires are rated at 6 or 8 amps.  The common 1N4001 thru 1N4007 diodes won't handle the current in this application.  Two relays controlled by the Compustars Parking Light output with their own fused +12V source is another option.  ( Or connect the Compustars (+) Parking light output to one side and use the Compustar (-) Parking Light output to control a relay for the other side. )
Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 8:09 AM / IP Logged  
Brake light output will be positive on this vehicle probably RED / black.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  
Of course or is this too obvious, check the colour at the brake light.
You can even pick it up there.
clueless111 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2011
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged  
if the brake output is +12v then the wiring diagram is wrong and it will be the other wire at the brake switch. Will confirm later today.
Re the parking light circuit ... Thank you once again kreg375. extremely helpful and much appreciated.
Sounds like nothing else needs diodes?
ps. just as an fyi for anybody doing a boxster subsequently the only issues I ran into were: there are 3 RED / white wires coming off the boxster ignition harness -- they are NOT all +12v constant (need to test). Door lock/unlock/trigger wires are the thin wires going into the factory alarm under the driver's door. I did, in fact, do the bypass by using the RFID (rather than the key in a bypass unit) ... placement was really, really finicky -- had to be in the middle of key cylinder side ... off by 5mm and the car wouldn't read it.
clueless111 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2011
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  
clueless111 wrote:
Door lock/unlock/trigger wires are the thin wires going into the factory alarm under the driver's door.
Ooops, i meant driver's seat (i unscrewed it and took the seat out to give me more room ... highly recommended).
I'll post if any probs with final hookups tho none anticipated at this stage.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 17, 2011 at 2:07 PM / IP Logged  
It was always standard procedure to remove the chairs from 911s, alarm, audio amp etc.but with those moving tapped plates and hex bolts it was a right PITA.
You might be getting false readings at the brake switch for the following reasons.
1) What you think of as the brake switch might be a cruise control brake cut-out.
2) Like BMWs the brake switch is data and variable voltage, as you brake harder the brake lights get brighter so tap the loom going to the rear for the brake lights, or if there look at the rear fuse/ECU box around the trunk or engine bay area or even front hood area.
clueless111 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2011
Posted: September 25, 2011 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
i did figure out the brake switch (it was BROWN / black wire) ... and ran into a different, weird, and really stupid problem.
the boxster has a central locking system that disarms with unlock. The Cm6200 has an option to unlock the doors/disarm before remote start. But i have the RF-BAM1 which is a 1 button remote. so i cannot program the options. indeed, it took me a while to even piece this together because if i unlock the car it takes the car out of reservation mode / if its locked it won't remote start because of porsche alarm.
Can anybody suggest the easiest way for me to either program my CM6200 with access to only the 1 button remote, or alteratively provide a negative pulse to the disarm wire of the porsche alarm, right before remote start i imagine. is there a better idea out there than running a(nother) relay from the 2nd starter output (which now goes to a relay grounding the clutch switch)? Can I just use the one coil and split the ground output to the clutch and the alarm unit?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 25, 2011 at 7:00 PM / IP Logged  
Don't know how much of a hurry you are in, but why not buy a used Compustar 4 button, one way, AM remote FOB.  The Compustar CM6200 can have 3 remotes paired with it and you could have the two one button remotes and the 4 button remote paired all at the same time.  Search on Compustar ( FCC ID ) O44JR1600.  They can be found for about $15.   Another option is the OP-500 programmer, which runs around $80 but is easier to use and allows changes in the Special Option groups.
Soldering is fun!
clueless111 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2011
Posted: October 04, 2011 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged  
things that should be very easy are not.....
I took your advice kregs357. grabbed the cheap 4 button 1 way remote.
programming this remote confirmed that the car will NOT enter programming mode with the ignition key (i have absolutely NO clue why not), but will enter if a apply 12v to the green wire in cn1 directly 5 times. the remote is programmed. all buttons work.
I cannot seem to enter the special options programming mode?????
I hold the lock & unlock buttons simultaneously for 2.5 sec. I see three flashes (they actually begin before the 2.5 sec is up). I then do this again. I get another 3 flashes.
I press the hood and remote start button simultaneously for 2.5 sec. I get one flash. I wait. Nothing happens. I hold the buttons simultaneously for 2.5 sec again. Again only 1 flash.
Ugh. What the heck am I doing wrong now?????
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