troubleshooting, porsche boxster 2001s

OK.  Took a while but I think I got it figured out.  I always use the OP-500 programmer so I am unfamiliar with the programming procedure via the 4 button remotes.  The three beeps when you try to enter programming mode for Menu1 ( or any menu for that matter ) means that the CM6000 is currently Locked.

To make changes to the program options you must first unlock the system ( by pressing the unlock button ).  Then you can start with the programming procedure by pressing the Lock & Unlock buttons simultaneously, etc.  There is a time limit between steps, so don't hesitate between steps too long.

In summary :  (  This will set the system for unlock before start and lock after start.   Menu 1-01 to Opt 2 )

1.  Press Unlock to unlock the brain.  The system responds with two flashes & unlocks the doors.2.  Press and hold Lock & Unlock for 2.5 seconds.  The system responds with ONE flash.3   Press and hold Lock & Unlock for 2.5 seconds.  The system responds with ONE flash.4.  Press and hold Trunk & Start for 2.5 seconds.  The system responds with ONE flash.5.  Wait until the Parking Lights to flash once, for Menu 1-01, in about 5 seconds.6.  Press Unlock to select Menu 1-01 Opt 2. The system responds with two flashes.

All done.

Soldering is fun!

as i said, things should be easy just aren't.... first off, thanks again. epic. you were right on the money. the option is now programmed and is working as advertised. the door unlocks first. except.... the car only starts with the key in the ACC or ON position. There is no transponder in the key, only the RFID attached at the steering column. The car starts with key. The car also remote starts fine if the key is in the ACC or ON position. The CN1 white ACC wire is not connected to anything per the porsche wiring diagram. One other WEIRD thing. When I remote start the car (but NOT when I start with the ignition key) instead of shutting off/entering reservation mode when I close the door the car stays on forever. (or until I kill it by releasing the parking brake. Even the foot brake does not interfere. I obviously don't know if this is related. does this sound like anything? any ideas where to start troubleshooting??????

Did you connect the CM6000 to supply power to all 3 ignition circuits?  Reading this post over, I only see where the Black Ignition 1 wire is powered.  That and the fact that cycling the ignition key did not supply the CM6000 the ignition signal to program the remotes and the fact that the car will only remote start with the key in and ON means problems with the ignition wiring.

Here is what CN1 should look like :

CN1-1 White ACC1                        Not Used

CN1-2 Yellow Starter                    Yellow @ Ignition switch harnessCN1-3 Green IGN1                        Black @ Ignition switch harnessCN1-4 Black Ground                      Chassis GroundCN1-5 Red x 2 +12V                      RED / White or BatteryCN1-6 GREEN / WHITE (+) Parking Lights    to Rt or Lt Parking Light

The loose extra relay supplied in CM6000 kit gets used for the IGN2 circuit.  Wired as follows :

Relay Red wire with 30 Amp fuse goes to +12V constant source.Relay Blue wire goes to BLACK / YELLOW Ignition2 wire in BoxsterRelay Purple wire goes the CN3-7 Green

That still leaves the Boxsters IGN3 circuit ( Orange wire ).

If you had the OP-500 you could reprogram a POC# in the Special Option Group 2 to provide another (-) 250mA Ignition 2 output but...  

Being as we are talking about a Boxster with 3 ignition circuits and no accessory circuits, keeping everything isolated at the ignition harness is a good idea.  Obtain a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and wire as follows :

Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12v constant thru 30 Amp fuseRelay Pin 85 to same CN3-7 Green wire as external IGN2 relayRelay Pin 30 to Orange IGN3 wire in BoxsterRelay Pin 87A not used - insulate

Note that there are now two wires connected to the CN3-7 Green wire, each going to Pin 85 of two separate relays.  I would wire the external relays up, and before connecting the Pin 30's to the cars ignition wires, put a DMM on each Pin 30 to verify +12v when the remote start button is pressed.

Soldering is fun!

Doubt if the RFID chip removed will R/S this vehicle . On VWs (the same) and similar BMWs you HAVE to use a 556U wired Euro style, i.e. no antenna loop as per the instructions, other wise it just won't work.

I have the relays set up exactly as advertised. I was assuming the RFID chip beside the ignition was working for the following reason ... when using the key (with the RFID REMOVED) the car will not start, when the RFID is placed at the ignition but just a little bit off target the car does not start, but when the glass RFID is moved to right where it should be the car starts with the key. Interestingly there are NO other electronics in my key (eg, the circuit board is gone). The car, of course, starts with the remote starter and the key in ACC or ON. It does not remote start with the key in but in the off position. I don't know what you mean by no antenna loop ... I thought the 556U was based on an antenna loop around the key ring. In any event ... I'm happy to order a 556U if that's consistent with my symptoms ... but before I do want to make sure this makes sense ... I am not understanding how the chip at the ignition trick would work for a key start but not a remote start??? Thanks guys.

EWS is the BMW name for this type of immobiliser. I've always found that with BMW, VW group and Porsche the unit's RF power is that low the chip trick won't work; whereas, all Japanese and Korean, German Ford and GM and the French and Italian* cars, using just the chip** is effective. When you purchase the 556U, read the instructions carefully, section 2, European cars, then you might understand my point about discarding the loop, again using the loop is virtually ineffective on Euro cars. *There's no point in me importing by-passes from the various Canadian manufacturers, for example, Valeo in France make the immobilisers for Honda, yet the version that works on the US model doesn't work on the European model. Euro Fords with keyless go and push start use Volvo equipment for the immobiliser and circuitry, those without use Ford systems. **I know chip removal is frowned upon in this game but in my defence we have a shortage of by-passes in Europe and the UK Cat l alarms have inbuilt dual immobilisers anyway.

Just to clarify. 

1. You have removed the RFID chip from a working key and secured it to / by / near the ignition switch at an exact location that allows the car to consistantly start with a plain key. 

2.  The car starts OK with the plain key.

3.  The car won't remote start.  ( No key in / near the ignition switch. )

4. The car won't remote start with the key fully in the ignition switch, but not turned.

5. The car will remote start if the key is in the ignition switch and turned to ACC or ON.

Sounds like an ignition wire / power problem with the remote starter due to the fact that turning the ignition key to ACC or ON does some / most of the ignition circuit powering for the remote starter and allows a start.  Did you verify the CM6000 Ignition outputs from CN1-3, the Blue wire on the first external relay and Pin 30 from the second external relay?

Soldering is fun!

I will test the 3 ignition wires ON the failed remote start with remote control (i tested the 3 ignition wires previously with dmm as part of install ... i never checked the relay voltage out on remote start which is what i'll do tmr ... hard for me to believe its a bad relay but who knows). as far as the rest of your assumptions, yes, you got it EXACTLY correct. I did mention the RFID in my initial post because it seems similar to the way the car doesn't start without the RFID ... so howie ii's posts have me thinking about that too. I'll actually go check that tmr too ... but it looks like the instrument panel lights up but no clicking. same thing with failed remote start. All I could imagine would be that the key in the ignition (at ACC) somehow powers an antenna that picks up the RFID? It sounds to me from howie ii's post that the 556U bypass can NOT be simply a wire looped around the ignition but instead wired directly???? Is this right? I tried to read up on how beemers and such were wired with the 556U bypass but was quite confused. Many posters wrote that the NON-EURO instructions had to be followed, even tho the instructions said it wouldn't work. One post said following the EURO instructions could cause damage. It was actually quite confusing. And then of course if I do need to wire in a 556U bypass I have absolutely NO clue what wires would be the transponder wires in the boxster lol. ...to be continued i guess.

2 points: a)I'm supposed to be the BMW* King on this site, I've ALWAYS used the 556U in EURO mode never the other. No problems. b)The confusing thing here is that BMW and Porsche both use a wire that goes live on both ACC and cranking. This is the mystery wire that causes so much confusion, to be treated as the second ignition on BMWs and third on Porsches. *For practical purposes all German vehicles.

ok but if its ignition #3 that should be powered by the relay, no?