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latched on/off relay not working properly


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 10, 2011 at 6:52 PM / IP Logged  
A simple alternative would be to use a twin coil Omron latching relay G6CK-21148-US12DC. Sufficient for 10amps, if more simply add a regular 5 pin SPCO relay*. You would need a SPCO momentary switch to control it.
Look at this:- 96Z_omron_g6ck-_2114p-us12dc.bmp
*Assuming ignition control of the circuit rather than constant
firedemonsic 
Member - Posts: 23
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Joined: September 09, 2011
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: September 12, 2011 at 1:20 AM / IP Logged  
Here we go again. Tore the whole thing apart and re-assembled it. Still doing the same thing.
I color coded the wires and shrink wrapped the diodes this time around to make life easier.
One strange thing I noticed is that once the relays are activated, when measuring the output voltage on #30 of relay 1 there is a slight voltage drop from the input as if it is being passed through a diode. But looking at the diagram, the main flow of current should be independent with the diodes only controlling the coils. If I keep #30 of relay 3 grounded simulating HOLDING the momentary switch, the voltage drop on #30 of relay 1 goes away and I get the same as the input voltage. If I remove the ground of #30 relay 3, the voltage drop returns but the relays still refuse to switch off. What gives?
https://i51.tinypic.com/op6a76.jpg
hotwaterwizard 
Silver - Posts: 1,350
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Joined: December 11, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 13, 2011 at 12:23 AM / IP Logged  

Sounds like one or more of the relays are malfunctioning.

I never solder on this type of relay.

The plastic melts inside of the relay and sometimes a connection solder inside of the relay melts too. 

Go get new relays and sockets and wire it up with wire nuts and I'll bet the problem goes by-by.

John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
firedemonsic 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2011
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: September 13, 2011 at 9:41 AM / IP Logged  
hotwaterwizard wrote:

Sounds like one or more of the relays are malfunctioning.

I never solder on this type of relay.

The plastic melts inside of the relay and sometimes a connection solder inside of the relay melts too. 

Go get new relays and sockets and wire it up with wire nuts and I'll bet the problem goes by-by.

None of the relays are malfunctioning. I tested each one individually when I had it dis-assembled. Each relay tests for continuity between the two 87 contacts, with continuity between the two 87 contacts and 30 when the coil is powered then breaks continuity again when power to the coil is removed. Both diodes test in only one direction.
In fact, looking at this diagram the constant on voltage drop I'm seeing apears to be normal. Here's why:
- Upon initial power and ground relays 1, 2 and 4 are open. Relay 3 is closed via constant coil ground and constant coil power coming from the purple wire which is constantly powered via the 87 contacts of relay 1, so it will never operate in open mode under normal circumstances.
- Upon press of the momentary button, relays 1 and 4 close from the now grounded coils through the gold and dark green wires which get their grounds from the light green wire going to the momentary switch.
- Upon release of the momentary button, relays 1 and 4 now open due to the interrupted ground, however relay 2 remains closed due to the blue output wire being constantly powered from the pink wire which in turn get's It's power from the constantly powered purple wire (Remember the purple wire stays constantly powered from the 87 contacts of relay 1).
- Relay 2 will now never open again until main ground/power is interrupted due to it sustaining It's own coil power from the blue output wire which is being fed by the pink wire. Even when the button is released and power flow from the main red to the main blue wire is interrupted electricity still has an alternate path to take to power the coil of relay 2. This explains the always on voltage drop I mentioned earlier because the voltage being measured is originating from that purple wire which is actually a diode. This also means that while I drove around the block during testing my TCC was being powered through a 3amp diode
After that, the next press of the momentary button closes relays 1 and 4 due the restored ground through the gold and dark green wires, then open again when the button is released due to interrupted ground, and that's all it does with each press from then on.
Unless I interpreted all that wrong, I'm not understanding where the latching on/off part is supposed to come in. Please correct me if I missed/misunderstood something.
Has anyone here actually ever built this before with success?
the12volt 
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 13, 2011 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  
I just read the first part of your reply. Your relays should be SPDT relays with terminals 30, 85, 86, 87 and 87a. If any of those relays has two 87 terminals, that's the problem. Terminals 87 and 87a should not have continuity.
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oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 14, 2011 at 3:31 AM / IP Logged  
It's times like this I prefer my single SPST relay solutions (using a momentary on push-button and an inverter chip, else a momentary on push-button and a momentary off push-button).
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 14, 2011 at 3:37 AM / IP Logged  
The irony here Peter is that this could all be achieved with a momentary SPCO switch and a single dual coil SPCO latching relay.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 14, 2011 at 7:53 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah - but you know me - I like using common components...
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