the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

locating txct and code wire


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
k_fish 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 25, 2011 at 8:57 AM / IP Logged  
Okay, so I looked at my parking lights connection this morning and checked the voltages on the wires again. There are two GREEN/ black wires on the light switch plug, one has 12v regardless what position the light switch is in and the other has about 10v when the lights are off and 0v when I switch the lights on. I made my connection to the one that was 10v. Should I have connected it to the other one or am I missing something completely? Thanks.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: September 25, 2011 at 10:33 AM / IP Logged  
The 2006 Sienna should have a total of three GREEN/ black wires in the steering column harness; they're all the same size and look the same:
1. Negative-trigger parking lights
2. Negative-trigger left turn signal
3. Negative-trigger horn
Test carefully whatever wire you hooked up to.
Also, I've never installed an Autopage, but are you sure you configured the unit for negative-trigger parking light output? I think there's one wire (with a fuse) (and is it maybe WHITE/ red?) that you tie to ground, and then the other (white) wire goes to the parking light wire on the car.
If you accidentally set it up for positive, and turned on the car's negative parking light switch at the same time the Autopage unit was feeding positive to the same wire...........If you got lucky, maybe you'd just blow the Autopage's parking light fuse. If unlucky, maybe some damage to the car.
So, in summary: Check the Autopage's fuses, check the Sienna's parking light fuse, temporarily disconnect the Autopage light-flash wire from the car.......then, separately, test the Sienna wire AND the Autopage wire for proper function before reconnecting.
k_fish 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 02, 2011 at 7:47 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks Chris Luongo and everyone else for your help. Yea, I blew a fuse on the car because the module's parking light output came default with +, but the car used a - trigger. I cut a wire on the module and grounded it to make the parking light output to -, replaced the blown fuse and there is power going to the module now. I decided to keep the door trigger on the dome light because I had already hooked it up and it also triggers the alarm if the door is unlock. I got everything working to my liking now.
One problem I noticed is that every now and then the car would remote start and only last about 10 secs before shutting down. But it only does it every now and then and other times it would stay running the whole preset time. I believe it may have to do with my bypass module. I will probably reset it and reprogram it when I have a chance.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: October 03, 2011 at 7:02 AM / IP Logged  
Hey, no problem. Good to see you got the parking lights figured out.
As for running ten seconds and shutting down, definitely not the bypass. The car (pretty much every car) only needs to see immobilizer at startup.
You could start the car with the key, break the chip out of the key and throw it away, and you could drive around forever as long as you don't shut the car back off.
I haven't installed Autopage, but it's probably a voltage-level or tach issue. Did you use tach or voltage?
I've almost always used voltage on those Siennas, because the two locations for the tach wire are a little hard to get to.
Next time it shuts down, the Autopage unit should have a diagnostics menu that shows you the reason. Maybe you can reprogram the voltage threshold.
If you end up needing to connect tach, you have two options if you won't want to go under the hood:
1: Above the gas pedal is a bundle with dozens or BLACK/ orange wires. One is tach, but you have to test them all.
2: Pop out the upper glove box; it just pulls out. Reach in there and down and off to the right; the ECM has five plugs in a vertical row. Tach is the only BLACK/ orange in the second plug down from the top.
k_fish 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 03, 2011 at 10:17 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply, I used Tach and connected near the ECU behind the glove box. So, you recommend voltage over tach on this particular car? Where would be the best place to tap to get the voltage signal or any voltage signal will do?
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: October 03, 2011 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, should have been more clear.
I use voltage sensing because it's a feature built into the remote starter, and requires no extra connections. It saves time instead of connecting the tachometer wire.
But the tachometer connection is generally considered the best, so you didn't do anything wrong by using it.
You'll definitely want to go into the Autopage's diagnostic menu to find out the reason for the remote starter shutting down. It should show different things like brake, hood, over-rev on tach, and under-rev on tach. Hopefully that'll point you in the right direction to start troubleshooting.
Also, did you "teach" the tach rate to the Autopage? I'd assume it has some kind of method for the unit to learn the tach signal. And it might not work right if you didn't do that.
k_fish 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 30, 2011 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry for taking so long to post an update, but I wanted to test it for awhile before posting the results. I took your advice and went into autopage's diagnostic and found out that it was shutting down due to over revving. I had already taught the tach signal to the remote start when I installed it, but I went ahead and relearned the tach signal and it has been working fine since then. I guess the engine was idling alot lower than usual when I taught it the tach signal the first time. Once again, thanks everyone's help.
Page of 2

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, May 3, 2025 • Copyright © 1999-2025 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer